I'm building a '93 Xtra-Cab 4x4 that is getting a GM TPI-V8, 4L60, NP208, 3" body lift, 4" suspension lift, and 35" tires. Tonight I got a line on a set of axles from an International Scout II for cheap and I'm thinking about a SAS at the same time.

The axles already have 4.10:1 gearing, the front has had the knuckles rotated to correct the caster angle, and both are already set up for spring-over. All for $200 - seems like a steal.

I know the rear is 30-spline and probably weaker than the Toyota rear, but I'd have a matching set and I don't plan on any rock-crawling.

Are there any reasons not to do this?

Thanks!

 

Nope.

If its a street truck you will be fine. Post pics!

If you do end up wheeling it, you already know you are bolting on weak stuff, so you can be careful.

 

why not just use the front and keep the rear as is?

 

I dunno.

With that motor, its not going to make much difference. Any good traction in low range, and he gives it gas with 35's, and that truck is going to blow axles or diffs. Doesn't really matter if its the toyota or the scout. If he goes to chromo, it'll blow the diffs.

Scouts had around 180-200 hp in their V8's.

But then again, what do we know? Maybe he'll bolt up those scout axles and they'll take all that power on full out rock crawls. Stranger things have happened.

 

why waste money on sas if you arent wheeling it?

 

Consistency, and bolt patterns. Besides, the rear is cake compared to swapping the front.

It'll be enough for me. I'll know the limits and stay within them.

If I had a place for serious off-roading then I'd build it for that. It will see some mild trails but that's all I can get, unfortunately.

Why a conversion? First, why not? It sounds like fun. Second, there doesn't seem like a lot of options for the extra weight of the V8. With leaf springs up front I can pick and choose spring rates and heights and get exactly what I want. With IFS, the only option is a normal IFS lift that will probably be way too soft.

Now the problem. The spring perches are wider than the SAS spring mount kits expect. Toyota axles are 29" at the perch centerlines. Supposedly the Scout axles are 30.5". The seller tells me they're 35" between the mounts (37" at centerlines?). I won't know until I pick them up this weekend what they really are but there's no way to move the passenger side mount since it's cast into the differential.

1.5" difference and I can widen the front spring hanger and figure out something with the rear shackles. 8" difference is a show stopper.

 

Seems like Dana 44's which I believe are 3/4 ton axles would be stronger than a toyota 7.5 or 8inch axle.

 

That is one of the better reasons I've heard of when SASing a truck. Nice to see someone who understands what they are doing, and has a handle on the logistics. Sorry if I came across acusatory. Wasn't my intention.

Bummer to hear the mounts are different. What did he have it on that he needed a 37" spacing? You can buy a wider front hanger from Sky mfg, but I'm pretty sure its not that wide.

Stronger than a 7.5, about the same as an 8".

 

I picked up the axles today. Front spring perches are 30.5" on center, as they should be. Seller emailed me the rear spacing.

That front axle is way heavy. I had to drag it through a field of mud and hoist it onto a trailer by hand. I'll be feeling that in the morning.

The rear has a locker!! Ring is 45 tooth and pinion is 11, so it's 4.09:1. That should be just right with the 4-speed auto and 35's.

Thanks for the link. Those are 31.5". The choices now are to widen a Toyota axle hanger by 1.5", shorten the Sky hanger by 1", or put the Sky hanger on as-is and squeeze the leaf springs in 1/2 inch per side. I helped a buddy swap axles on a Jeep and we did that and it performed okay. Rather do it right, though.

I wonder if Sky would sell that kit without their name cut into the steel. I don't like to put logos on a vehicle unless I get paid for it. Besides, it's just more space for rust to set in.

 

I just pulled the brakes and diff cover off the front and it has a locker too.

 

Sounds like you got a hell of an Deal! Lockers in both ends, SAS potential, and matching bolt patterns.

A buddy of mine has a SCOUT II that he wheels everywhere. It's his second one, he liked the first so much he got another one. He has it fully set up with ARB's front and rear, 35's, the whole works. It's one of the best and toughest rigs I've seen yet. So I don't think you'll have any trouble with them.

Are the axles notably wider than the stock Yota? Since you mentioned the perches being considerable different spacing.
That would be kind of nice to have that slightly wider stance. I know my buddy with his SCOUT II liked it over Jeeps because the Wheelbase is slightly longer and therefore he can straddle things that jeeps get both axles stuck in at the same time. The Yota is the same way. I really like that too.

 

nice steal you got on those axles there.

I would definatly look into finding a cut down 60 rear and locating some 8 lug front hubs. Thats 44 will not handle a 350 on the street let alone standing on tires and being wheeled on.

 

The front is 2" wider at the wheels and 1.5" wider at the perches so it's close. I'll have to decide on the overall width when ordering wheels. My state wants the tires under the fenders so it can't be too crazy.

I'm concerned about clearance between the frame and differential. The diff is kicked out to the side a lot more than the IFS diff. But there'll be suspension lift involved and others have swapped full size axles so it must work okay.

But a 60 is so heavy. I figured I'd take it easy on the 44 until a later date and build up another 44 later with more strength. I saw an '85 truck with a Ford 9" rear and it looked nice.


Body lift went on last night. It's now 3" closer to heaven!

 

Here's what I have to start with:







All the IFS is removed now except for the lower A-arms. Torsion bar adjusters were frozen and I ended up snapping both off with a wrench. Ouch.

Question: How short a lift can I get away with? It looks like 5.5" lift is minimum and that's actually a little too much. I'd like 4.5". If 5.5 is the least, hopefully there will be room over the V8 to shave an inch off the body lift. It has to fit in the garage!

 

Looks like you've got some rust!!!

 

If your looking for a custom lenght hanger, check out Datin Fab. He has made stuff to my spec's for no extra charge. Here's a link to the hangers. http://datinfab.com/index.asp?PageAc...ROD&ProdID=183

 

are you sure the front axel is a dana 44? a lot of scouts came with a Dana 30.

 

The rusty Toyota parts are coming off and the new axles are pretty under the diff cover. It'll look clean and nice when it's all done. The body and frame look great - which was very lucky for a $600 truck!

Very cool. Thanks for the link. I'm going to email them tonight.

Oh, I hope it's a '44. The diff cover looks like the right bolt pattern, and I do know for sure that both front and rear are the same. Either it's 44's at both ends or 30's at both ends - and Scouts definitely didn't have a Dana 30 rear. Somebody put a lot of work into both axles and I can't imagine they'd waste time on a weaker model.

It looks like I'm going to have to swap the steering knuckles. The plan is to press an insert into the Toyota pitman arm to fit a GM/Ford/Whatever steering link, run that across to a high-steer arm on top of the right knuckle, then connect the knuckles with a stock drag link under the springs. Sort of a hybrid high-steer/low steer setup. If I ever decide to rock crawl it, I can remove the drag link and go with a full high steer. (hope that all made sense)

 

No turning back now!!

 

Leftover parts.

Custom made spring hangers from Datinfab.com and engine mounts from AdvanceAdapters are in the mail!

(Removed off-topic photos of transmission rebuild. Ask me about it and why I'll never try that again!!!)