Registered User
Nice! How did you cut your pieces out for the plate bumper? I am looking at a getting a CNC cutter in the near future as all my pieces are cut via out sourced laser cutter currently.
Registered User
I like it, turned out sweet! Do you have any plans for bumper cut outs for mounting off road lights? What about turn signals? I added some LED lights to my factory driving light housing and made the lower section of the lens into turn signals in addition to the small ones mounted on on my front bumper, just to make it more visible to traffic from the side view. Nice job, I can't wait to build me one, I'm sick of my Smittybuilt!
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This was all remanent steel from CDA Metal's in Missoula, MT. $0.30 per pound and $45 per hour for clipping the steel. The rest was with an angle grinder, right angle square, and a tape measure.Originally Posted by Trail-Outfitters
Nice! How did you cut your pieces out for the plate bumper? I am looking at a getting a CNC cutter in the near future as all my pieces are cut via out sourced laser cutter currently.

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I do have some weld on "D" rings, should have thought about it more before rattle canning it.Originally Posted by julsruls
any plans for recovery points?
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Thanks. Probably some day a LED light bar under the tube. Turn signals will be the corner light mod. Originally Posted by rustEDyota83
I like it, turned out sweet! Do you have any plans for bumper cut outs for mounting off road lights? What about turn signals? I added some LED lights to my factory driving light housing and made the lower section of the lens into turn signals in addition to the small ones mounted on on my front bumper, just to make it more visible to traffic from the side view. Nice job, I can't wait to build me one, I'm sick of my Smittybuilt!
They are fun and frustrating to build. I like the look of the '80's Smitty's, but they are non-functional.
I like your Fordota. What HP and Torque you got in that?
The bumper is not finished. There will be head light guards that bend around and down behind the corner lamps. The tube is just 1 3/4", I will slug the inside with 1 1/2", drill holes for rosettes, and fully weld around the tube. The bumper steel ended up weighing in around 60 lbs. The XRC8 weighs 85 lbs. So far into the bumper with the winch included I have under $300.00 into it.
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Wow, $300 isn't bad at all with the winch included! Can't wait to see it finished with the headlight guards! I might have to " borrow" some styling ques from your design, lol.Originally Posted by 88_Red_Runner
The bumper is not finished. There will be head light guards that bend around and down behind the corner lamps. The tube is just 1 3/4", I will slug the inside with 1 1/2", drill holes for rosettes, and fully weld around the tube. The bumper steel ended up weighing in around 60 lbs. The XRC8 weighs 85 lbs. So far into the bumper with the winch included I have under $300.00 into it.
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They are fun and frustrating to build. I like the look of the '80's Smitty's, but they are non-functional.
I like your Fordota. What HP and Torque you got in that?
Thanks, I'm not sure on how much HP and torque my 302 has. When I first bought my 4 runner it was all stock, with a 22re and a blown head gasket. I knew I was going to SAS it, then I found a 85' long box pickup (for $1700) that had the 302 V8, NWOR bell housing adapter and motor mounts, and of course the straight front axel. I just swapped everything over to the 4 runner, made my own front hanger, and used RUF springs. The PO didn't seem to know any of the build specs on the motor or what vehicle it was even out of. It feels pretty torquey, and has plenty of power to run 35's with stock 4.10 gears. If I had to guess, I'd say it's close to 300hp range.Originally Posted by 88_Red_Runner
Thanks. Probably some day a LED light bar under the tube. Turn signals will be the corner light mod. They are fun and frustrating to build. I like the look of the '80's Smitty's, but they are non-functional.
I like your Fordota. What HP and Torque you got in that?
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Anytime.
Thanks, I'm not sure on how much HP and torque my 302 has. When I first bought my 4 runner it was all stock, with a 22re and a blown head gasket. I knew I was going to SAS it, then I found a 85' long box pickup (for $1700) that had the 302 V8, NWOR bell housing adapter and motor mounts, and of course the straight front axel. I just swapped everything over to the 4 runner, made my own front hanger, and used RUF springs. The PO didn't seem to know any of the build specs on the motor or what vehicle it was even out of. It feels pretty torquey, and has plenty of power to run 35's with stock 4.10 gears. If I had to guess, I'd say it's close to 300hp range.
That is about what I was guessing. 300 ponies is plenty. Do you have the W56 or the G54/52 transmission? The reason I am asking all of these questions is because a friend of mine is doing a 302 swap.Originally Posted by rustEDyota83
Wow, $300 isn't bad at all with the winch included! Can't wait to see it finished with the headlight guards! I might have to " borrow" some styling ques from your design, lol.Anytime.
Thanks, I'm not sure on how much HP and torque my 302 has. When I first bought my 4 runner it was all stock, with a 22re and a blown head gasket. I knew I was going to SAS it, then I found a 85' long box pickup (for $1700) that had the 302 V8, NWOR bell housing adapter and motor mounts, and of course the straight front axel. I just swapped everything over to the 4 runner, made my own front hanger, and used RUF springs. The PO didn't seem to know any of the build specs on the motor or what vehicle it was even out of. It feels pretty torquey, and has plenty of power to run 35's with stock 4.10 gears. If I had to guess, I'd say it's close to 300hp range.
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I'm currently running a G52. Third gear didn't work in the W56 that came in my 4 runner when I bought it. I've been running the G52 for about 1-1/2 years and its still holding up so far, once it dies I want to get another W56.Originally Posted by 88_Red_Runner
That is about what I was guessing. 300 ponies is plenty. Do you have the W56 or the G54/52 transmission? The reason I am asking all of these questions is because a friend of mine is doing a 302 swap.
Sorry have not posted in a while. I have been working on my tow rig. 1996 3/4 Ton Cummins. Some events coming up soon. Will be posting some pictures stay tuned. 

Registered User
nice.I had a 97 ex cab 4x4 dodge 1ton.miss it very much.had the 5spd too.great pics by the way.

I know its not a Toyota but it brings it home from the races. And this has been occupying my time. Now that the Cummins is done I will be focusing my free time on the Runner. I have been picking up the missing parts for the FJ80 front end. That will be going in next. So stay tuned.
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Hey man I have a question about the frenched front hanger, did you cut the frame/x member and recess the hanger up ^ into it, or did you cut out the top of the hanger and recess the frame/x member down into it? I'm not sure if one way is better than the other, I'm just curious your method.
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Yopar, pretty sure he cut the stock crossmember and recessed the hanger into it. The reason being that the stock crossmember is pretty thin metal, most of the hangers are 3/16" or 1/4" thick metal, so it's much stronger to keep all of it and replace the thin stock metal.
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I did cut the frame. Its notched half way in. Look through the build thread and you will see.Originally Posted by Yopar
Hey man I have a question about the frenched front hanger, did you cut the frame/x member and recess the hanger up ^ into it, or did you cut out the top of the hanger and recess the frame/x member down into it? I'm not sure if one way is better than the other, I'm just curious your method.
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The 4Runner has been put up for sale and will be getting a new owner this Friday. Friend of mine has bought it. He knows how to turn a wrench. He has owned a few Toyota's and has built a crawler before. So he knows what he is getting.Originally Posted by rustED
Any updates?
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Correct Jonny.Originally Posted by JonnyBoy
Yopar, pretty sure he cut the stock crossmember and recessed the hanger into it. The reason being that the stock crossmember is pretty thin metal, most of the hangers are 3/16" or 1/4" thick metal, so it's much stronger to keep all of it and replace the thin stock metal.

