‘88 SAS Driveshaft Research
#1
‘88 SAS Driveshaft Research
Shortly my 88 will be going under the knife to be SAS’d. Front axle is fully built with chromo shafts, hub gears, and spooked 5.29s. 2.28/4.7 dual case is built waiting to be swapped in. I have a 5.5” All Pro lift (pre trail gear merger) ready to go, just need to order the mounting brackets to burn in. My question is what is the best route for driveshafts front and rear? While I won’t know until I know the front and rear angles should be fairly good since the truck is an Xtra CaB and I’ll have dual cases. I think I still have my stock ‘85 front shaft for a CV core. However, from my understanding I wouldn’t be able to use a CV shaft in the front without cutting and rotating my knuckle ballsif the pinion angle is too extreme. While not mandatory though, is a CV shaft recommended for the rear? I’m in south Florida so this build is beyond and above overkill and will ride the cusp of still being streetable, but the goal is to trailer the truck to Moab before kids are in the picture. In that case I would need to cut and rotate the rear spring perches, or would regular universal joints suffice just fine? I’m just trying to have all my ducks in a row when I go to order my driveshafts since obviously I can’t take measurements until the work is complete. Are there any other things I’m overlooking?
Last edited by Dr Phat; May 18, 2021 at 07:43 PM.
#2
I used the rear drive shaft up front and used the front CV shaft in the rear. I did rotate the rear axle up. My front shaft really needs to be a long spline as it almost comes apart at full droop. Hasn't yet but, I've been lucky. I originally went without the CV rear but, had noise that made me think my trans or T-case was failing. Even with proper pinion angle. Had the CV shaft built, rotated my pinion up and no problems since. Good luck with your build.
#3
Thanks for your input, I will most likely go with CV shafts front and rear, but I was getting conflicting info about a CV shaft in the front since cutting and rotating the knuckle balls isnt something everyone can do. But I think since Ill be running dual cases the extra length should make everything ok.
#4
Heres a great read on when to use CV vs normal. https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTr...line-101.shtml
Everyones rig and goals are different. My drive shafts are cheap and durable, but not great in a street driven rig, using single joints at all ends. The mounting pattern may be different on different joints, so you may need a triple drilled flange or re drill your current ones depending on which joint you end up using.
The 85 front CVs have more flex than a normal rear or IFS front CV.
Everyones rig and goals are different. My drive shafts are cheap and durable, but not great in a street driven rig, using single joints at all ends. The mounting pattern may be different on different joints, so you may need a triple drilled flange or re drill your current ones depending on which joint you end up using.
The 85 front CVs have more flex than a normal rear or IFS front CV.
#5
you can use a CV up front with out cutting and turning the knuckle balls, to help the angle of the front D/S if you have the $$ adding a high pinion front diff definitely helps.
both of the front drives shafts i have had built had the front CV clearanced; http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/
both of my d/s have CV's
both of the front drives shafts i have had built had the front CV clearanced; http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/
both of my d/s have CV's
#6
Thanks for the additional info. Ill will have an IFS front CV joint I can clearance to build into a long slip shaft, I may also still have my front CV from my 84 but Im not sure if it is OEM or some hagard aftermarket who knows what. Eventually I would like to do a selectable locker up front so that would be a good time to switch to high pinion anyway but for now regular with dual cases sounds like it should be fine.
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