80 SFA for IFS Swap ok
#1
80 SFA for IFS Swap ok
1992 Std Cab 4x4 V6
There should be no problem using an 80 SFA for my SAS should there? I know the 84-85 are better gussested...but I can add gussets to the 80 correct?
Also...it looks like many forget to mention the brakes when doing a SAS. I see proportioning valves and everything, but none two systems alike. Or I am making a mountain out of a mole hill???
There should be no problem using an 80 SFA for my SAS should there? I know the 84-85 are better gussested...but I can add gussets to the 80 correct?
Also...it looks like many forget to mention the brakes when doing a SAS. I see proportioning valves and everything, but none two systems alike. Or I am making a mountain out of a mole hill???
#2
Contributing Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 4,267
Likes: 1
From: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
My axle is out of an 83. Trail Gear or Marlin both make killer gusset kits for building up a SA. Your best option when doing front brakes are to use FJ vented rotors and your IFS calipers. Proportioning valves deal with the rear.
#3
Most of the full SAS kits will come with parts required to install your IFS calipers on new rotors. If you are doing your SAS from scratch, you'd have to look at all your options.
I'd suggest the ball gusset kit from TG or Marlin. It seems to me that the pinch point just before the ball end is a weak link. Plus these kits come with bump stop gussets which are a nice add.
I'd suggest the ball gusset kit from TG or Marlin. It seems to me that the pinch point just before the ball end is a weak link. Plus these kits come with bump stop gussets which are a nice add.
Last edited by Elvota; May 11, 2007 at 06:35 AM.
#4
Speaking of doing SAS from scratch.........can that be done more cheaply than the kits?
And I'm figuring, you can get everything up, all you need really is the brake stuff, steering (or can you use stock steering until Hysteer becomes affordable) and obviously springs/shackles/struts/hoops?
Then the hysteer, driveshaft, and gearing/locker can come later, no?
And I'm figuring, you can get everything up, all you need really is the brake stuff, steering (or can you use stock steering until Hysteer becomes affordable) and obviously springs/shackles/struts/hoops?
Then the hysteer, driveshaft, and gearing/locker can come later, no?
#5
Speaking of doing SAS from scratch.........can that be done more cheaply than the kits?
And I'm figuring, you can get everything up, all you need really is the brake stuff, steering (or can you use stock steering until Hysteer becomes affordable) and obviously springs/shackles/struts/hoops?
Then the hysteer, driveshaft, and gearing/locker can come later, no?
And I'm figuring, you can get everything up, all you need really is the brake stuff, steering (or can you use stock steering until Hysteer becomes affordable) and obviously springs/shackles/struts/hoops?
Then the hysteer, driveshaft, and gearing/locker can come later, no?
The TG or Marlin kit include everything you need. They take all the guess work out of it and make it less frustrating. Also, the TG kit comes with hi steer which you need for anything over 3" of lift.
#6
Contributing Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 4,267
Likes: 1
From: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
Speaking of doing SAS from scratch.........can that be done more cheaply than the kits?
And I'm figuring, you can get everything up, all you need really is the brake stuff, steering (or can you use stock steering until Hysteer becomes affordable) and obviously springs/shackles/struts/hoops?
Then the hysteer, driveshaft, and gearing/locker can come later, no?
And I'm figuring, you can get everything up, all you need really is the brake stuff, steering (or can you use stock steering until Hysteer becomes affordable) and obviously springs/shackles/struts/hoops?
Then the hysteer, driveshaft, and gearing/locker can come later, no?
#7
I do plan on a full kit. I can follow directions and turn a wrench, but I am by no means a suspension guru and dont want to miss somthing. After all...safety is my main concern...even before lift and flex.
Thanks for the replys and ideas!
Thanks for the replys and ideas!
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#8
Speaking of doing SAS from scratch.........can that be done more cheaply than the kits?
And I'm figuring, you can get everything up, all you need really is the brake stuff, steering (or can you use stock steering until Hysteer becomes affordable) and obviously springs/shackles/struts/hoops?
Then the hysteer, driveshaft, and gearing/locker can come later, no?
And I'm figuring, you can get everything up, all you need really is the brake stuff, steering (or can you use stock steering until Hysteer becomes affordable) and obviously springs/shackles/struts/hoops?
Then the hysteer, driveshaft, and gearing/locker can come later, no?
- http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/proje...jtoy.html#axle
You'll probably double your work in retrotiftting the solid axle steering box to the IFS frame along with the torque rod bracket. That is a heavy piece of steel and will be pretty trashed by the time you hack it out of the solid axle frame. Then when you get read to do the crossover steering swap, you'll have to hack out all the push-pull steering parts and put the IFS steering box back in.
Not all that hard to make the spring hanger, shackles and other bits of the suspension attachments if you can cut, drill and weld steel:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ringHangerDrop
The steering parts are probably best purchased from one of the vendors unless you have a large machine shop. Prices have really come down on those parts recently.
#9
thanks for that info 
I always wondered if the hysteer could be installed on the IFS setup prior to SAS....but ya know.........just because I buy it before the rest of the parts doesn't mean it has to be installed, etc. hehe...I just get anxious!

I always wondered if the hysteer could be installed on the IFS setup prior to SAS....but ya know.........just because I buy it before the rest of the parts doesn't mean it has to be installed, etc. hehe...I just get anxious!
#10
I only bought the M-C hanger/shackles/knuckle rebuild kit, T-G shock hoops and wheel bearings/rotors/hi-steer, and rear lower shock mounts. I made my own spring packs using Toyota rears and Mazda rears cut to size. I also bought the Sky's Pitman arm adapter to allow me to use my stock pitman arm. (However that is coming off when I move my steering box forward and use the flat pitman arm I got with the hi-steer). I think that I saved a lot of money by making up my own springs, and reusing parts from my IFS (locking hubs with Longfield conversion hub gears) pitman arm, and of course my V6 brake calipers.
#11
Getting all the parts as a kit is the easiest way to do SAS.
I didnt' do that though. You can do it in parts. Rebuilt the axle first...put Hysteer on it. This is a good time to get Longfield also. I got my hanger kit from FROR. They mimic the 85 hanger so it doesnt' drop as low as other kits. If you don't trust your weld, you can have the hanger weld on first. Hysteer is from Marlin. I have 2" BL already so I used Marlin shock hoops cause it's "higher" than others. Marlin also provided me with lots of techinical support. He even drop off some parts to my house cause he was down here for other reasons. Drive shaft should be done last.
I didnt' do that though. You can do it in parts. Rebuilt the axle first...put Hysteer on it. This is a good time to get Longfield also. I got my hanger kit from FROR. They mimic the 85 hanger so it doesnt' drop as low as other kits. If you don't trust your weld, you can have the hanger weld on first. Hysteer is from Marlin. I have 2" BL already so I used Marlin shock hoops cause it's "higher" than others. Marlin also provided me with lots of techinical support. He even drop off some parts to my house cause he was down here for other reasons. Drive shaft should be done last.
Last edited by anthony1; Jul 18, 2007 at 07:53 AM.
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