I gernaded my second 7.5 diff and decided it was time for a change. I have been working on it for 2 days so far and I am ready to slide the axle under it for mesurements. I have a couple of hi-pinion full width D44 from a 78 Bronco and a F150 that are sitting in the yard, I also have an 85 waggy axle but I want a wider stance. The easiest and cheapest will be:
The front is gonna be 12" extended radius arms with Johnny Joints and a trac bar with a tierod flip done on the knuckles. I am using early bronco superflex lift coils
The rear is a ford 9", it will have a 3 link wishbone and extended rear links and posible fj 80 coils.

Parts I already have for the swap include:

-5.5" Superflex early bronco coils (probibly gonna end up w/ 3.5")
-hi pinion dana 44 (fwx2)
-9" rear ford axle w/ trac lock (fw)
-35" Baja Claws on 15x10 5 lug aluminum wheels (need 38s+)
-Radius Arms (2 sets)
-7* poly bushings for correct pinion angle (blue unfortunently)
-2x4x4 quick ratio steering box (massive, probible go with IFS box)
-random ford and yota driveshafts for square front shaft

Parts I need for the swap:

-Ford coil buckets and retainers (JBG)
-extended my radius arm 12"
-2.5" Currie Johnny Joints for the radius arm frame mounts (x2)
-2x3 steel
-steering shaft extension
-various tabs for frame mounts and track bar mount
-hardware to adapt frod brakes to toyota lines
-plan for the rear 3 link
-Regear with front locker and rear spool
-shocks

Does the trac bar have to be located under the frame rail or can it be 2" out on one side. I think it will screw with the suspension cycle but I don't know.

day 1 IFS puked up in front of the truck


Matt on day 2 doing all the work


notice the tire rub on the frame....no more

the primer is to prevent rust for the future snow storm





Tommarow is day 3 and I am rolling the axle under it to take measurents and do some clean up grinding. I am out of $ already so progress between pay days will be slow. I put my 305s on my brothers 1st gen and am gonna drive this for a while


let me know what yall think.
-----Jon

 

I think you guys should build a garage.

Nice 1st gen.

Good luck w/ the build...I'll stay tuned.

 

Subscribing to the thread. I agree with wabbit, after this your next mod should be a shop!

 

Looks cool, good luck with the build... But I think after driving a Como'd Gen 1 I'd be over the other runner...

 

Can't wait to see how it turns out!

Chris

 

There is a full width SAS'd 3rd gen on ebay right now:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...11853062QQrdZ1

 

Awesome idea! I am actually thinking of going this same route for my 2nd gen. I have an early bronco that I had bought some cage longarms and coils and other stuff for, I was thinking of selling this stuff to put towards a SAS kit since the bronco is now on the backburner, but then I got to thinking about just using it on the runner. I am still unsure if I want to use a toy axle though or go full width or maybe even use the axles out of my EB, the only problem with that would be that the front diff is on the wrong side.

Cant wait to see the outcome though, will be an awesome truck for sure!

 

Subscribing also.
Good luck with the work. Looks like ther will be a lot of SASed rigs at this years meet.

 

Interesting project.

How wide are the axles you have?

The E-bay truck, with a 14 bolt and an FJ-60 front, is hardly full width and is possibly even narrower than stock.

 

1st of all, get histeer.

2nd of all, your trac bar must be the exact same length and angle as your steering draglink.

you may want to read up on front suspensions before you get too far along. otherwise your unfinished truck will end up on ebay.

 

I will keep watching. Would like to see how it comes out. Eventually I would like to do something similar to mine.

 

Selling my truck is never an option....
First off I can not use hi steer with coils and second off you obviously have not seen my truck, I start all my project blind.

The problem I am having is the radius arm location will be within inches of T-case even farther away from the frame rails. I did not relize that the frame widens out under the truck that much unlike ford frames. I think I am going to have to re tube the axle and do a 4link.

 

why not just build the rear mounts for the radius arms on a custom cross member? just because ford mounted the radius arms to the bottom of the frame rail doesn't mean you have to. check out some nissan offroad sites if you need a reference, this have been a common swap with them for years and they have the same problem. and why can't you run high steer with coils? i can't see how they would interfere.

 

That is the idea, I could get them bent and they will clear the driveshaft

 

Here are some pics from day 3

 

looking good! It doesn't look too wide to me!

Chris

 

Me neither, I like the low and wide stance. John you don't waste any time, can't wait to see her in Tellico. Keep up the progress.

 

whats the bottom of the frame height from the ground at?

 

why do you say that? speaking from experience and from looking at those pics, there are no clearance issues that would prevent you from using hi-steer.

if you put this together as-is, your next post will be about either HD tie rods or how to get rid of bump-steer

 

i can see that the rad arms angle in, do the arms have a bend in them or is the axle mount angled in too?

if there is a bend in them, try swapping them with each other to see if you can get them to swing out a bit.

bending them out too far might cause tire interference when turning, keep that in mind.