How wide is that?

69" WMS to WMS will be a big SOB.

I am curious on the radius arms, going to capture the coils too?

 

The factory tie rods on 78/79 ford are heavy duty btw.Bump steer should not be an issue with this set up. Articulation ithe ball joints should be good
As for hi steer I want to keep the strong factory knuckles, I am doing a tie rod flip like in this pic:

I am going with this set up




Artical on bumpsteer

The radius arms are not bent and if I get these bent then they will need to be bent twice to make up for wheel clearence. I am probible going to get cage radius arms.

(ND Runner, you want to sell those Cage arms???)

 

if you can make it work, go for it.

i wouldnt run that steering setup for anything. will it work? possibly. is it the best? far from it.

 

keep in mind on your panhard bar that the mid height point is your roll center

keep that in mind

 

http://www.allprooffroad.com/index.p...ask=view&id=80

had to add this for my brother since he hasnt seen it yet..........

 

I got my coil buckets and my shock towers in..... I also have metal to build my cross members and radius arm extensions. I decided to scrap the cage arms due to cost so I need some Johnny Joints to weld to my DOM. My arm will mount directly under the transfer case so I will need to move my drive train and engine up 2"

I am thinking of moving my axle forward 1" or 2" forward to help aproach angle what issues will I have with that? The rear axle will be pushed back also but I am noty worried about fitment issues in the rear.

 

You'll just need to wedge your steering box up super far if you want to move the axle forward.

 

where do you measure from for the steering box??

 

Ok, the axle is pushed forward a couple inches, centered between the motor mounts. I mounted Ford coil towers and f 250 shock towers to 2x4 1/4 steel to space them out to the width of the axle. Right now it is bolt on but it will be welded after I cycle the suspension. I extended the radius arms up to 14" I am using rod ends from arora. I need to finish the crossmember and cut my extinsion down to size.

I wanted to keep my trac bar for now and I was thinking that I could space the trac bar out 3 inches on the DS to compensate for the extra 3 inches on the PS. Then I plan on shortening the drag link and running a drop piman arm.

I'll post pics of the progress tomarrow.........

 

once again, your panhard and drag link need to be the exact same length and the exact same angle!

 

Most of the time that isn't possible since your pitman arm swings back and forth. It's possible to build it so the frame mount on the panhard and the end of the pitman arm are the same when the truck is driving straight. On the other end, the drag link connects to the hi-steer arm, in which case, it's not possible to make the panhard meet the length of the drag link there either. On my leaf spring setup, my panhard is 2/3 the length of my drag link and it works fine and flexes fine. It sits about half an inch higher than the drag link but is the same angle. Link suspensions are fun!

 

Panhard on a leaf truck?

Gosh, Napoleon, eat some tots.

Death wobble on linked trucks with crappy panhard/draglink relations is killer. I have driven a couple of trucks that over 35 will rip the wheel out of your hand because of it.

Still not sure how wide these axles are.

Still not disputing radius armed trucks ramp killer.

 

Yep, full size Furd Superdooties have panhard bars and leafs. It was probably the best thing I could have done to improve road manners of my leaf setup. There have been a couple others I know of that have panhard bars and leafs with no problems to date.

There must have been some really twacked out angles that caused the steering wheel to do that

 

first, the pitman arm swinging back and forth does not change the length of the draglink or its angle.

you can make it the same length by putting the panhard on the outside of the frame on the driver side. if they are the same length and the same angle it doesnt matter where on the axle or frame they mount.

you might be getting away with a short panhard, but on a leaf truck its a bandaid, IMO. leafs have characteristics that center the axle by themselves.

hyperlite doesnt plan on using histeer, therefore its much more imperative for him to match the angle and length than you. also, the panhard will be the only thing centering his suspension.

 

It doesn't change the length of the draglink but it does change its position. I just made my panhard on the frame mount come out from the frame about an inch or so.

How is running a panhard a bandaid? I will gladly pay for your plane ticket to CA so you can drive my truck with and without the panhard and you can tell me if it makes a difference or not.

 

.....i want to go to CA and drive your truck.....

 

It drives better with the panhard bar hooked up, I swear

 

as i stated before, position doesnt matter as long as the angles and lengths are the same.

all i was saying is that a leaf setup shouldnt need a panhhard. granted, in some setups they reduce understeer, but in those setups you should take a closer look at why there is understeer in the first place but thats OT and i will say nothing more about it

 

I guess the point I was just trying to get across was the panhard should be as close to the length of the drag link and as close to the angle of the drag link AS POSSIBLE. Meaning it isn't always possible to make it the same length.

Here is a radius arm setup on a Tacoma, due to the lack of space with the coilovers and air bumps in the way, not possible to make the drag link extend out farther on the axle.

Here is another link setup on a Tacoma, even without the air bump mount in the way, still not possible to extend the panhard farther on the axle to match the length of the drag link.


Both of these trucks have excellent road manners even though their panhard bars aren't the exact same length as their drag links.

Ok I think I'm done ranting LOL Stepping off my soap box now

 

Sorry it been a while but I am moving so the Runner is on the back burner.....
Here is some pic however.........




The radius arms are extended with a hiem on one end the tubing I used was 1/4" wall sleeved w/ 1/8" wall sleeved with thin wall sleeved with 3/8 wall and I plated the inside of each arm with 1/2" plate kinda over kill but massive.



The crossmember needs to be moved forward and the coil buckets need to possible come back some..




I raised my motor up 2" and need to attach the tracbar and steering...