tjbx

I've got a '97 T100 SR5 4x4 Automatic that's stuck in my garage in park. The truck doesn't get much use in the summer so the battery was worn down. I charged it back up and now the shift lock won't disengage. Any one know where the override is? I've searched the manual, the cab, and the internet and can't find it. This truck has shifting on the column.

As far as fixing it goes, there are no blown fuses and the brake lights work fine. I tried removing the negative battery lead for a few minutes to reset everything but that didn't help. It seems like the switch near the brake lever is not popping out the way it should to trigger the disengage. There are two such switches near the brake pedal - one for the brake lights that pops out when the brake is pushed and one for the disengage? that doesn't pop out. I'm just guessing here and I may be wrong.

Any help appreciated.

BamZipPow

The shift lockout is a manual cable...it's the first "switch" nearest the pedal. It's probably gunked up with dirt or what not...you should be able to spray some lube on it to break it free...or you could just remove the nut and you can be on yer way.

tjbx

Yes, after searching high and low, I found a PDF that showed it to be manual. After trying a bunch of things to fix it, I just undid the nut and disabled it. Worked like a charm.

lanning

where is the nut to take off to over ride? can you emial me the PDF that shows it?

BamZipPow

This is where the lock out cable contacts the brake pedal arm...


It's not a nut...it's a cable that threads in like a bolt. If you can find the brake switch, it will be located below that.

EngineerMike

I had my '93 T100 parked in front of my motorhome, moho packed & ready to head out for a month. Charged up the T100 batt sor it'd start right up, which it did.

No shifty. Nada.
As a get-by I went under the hood, undid the shift linkage, had wife set in cab "driving" while I walked along side & shifted by hand D, R, D, etc. to maneuver the rig outa the way so we could get outa town.

Timely thread as I now have to get the old gal smogged, so its gotta move across town, thanks guys.

So the cable described above has two ends, the plunger end at the brake pedal arm as shown in BamZipPow's pic in post#5. Call that the "switch" end.
The other end is the business end w/the lock works, and the cable enters a sort of box section of the shift linkage on the upper side of the actual steering column. You have to take out the plastic dash panel to see that. On the lower right of the shift column (not to be confused w/the steering column, there are two distinct columns in the assembly, they are not concentric, and the shift assembly is to the right of the steering. Inside the box section there is some kind of spring load to the cable. At the brake end the plunger should have the amount of stick-out as shown in the above pic when you have the brake depressed. If you press the brake but the plunger does not move out, you either have a cable lube issue, or (like on mine) the lock works end is gunked up & not allowing the spring to release the cable & its lock on the shift.

Gave mine a few whacks w/a hammer, lock released, I lubed the lockworks sort of. There is a plunger to the left of the key switch which is connected to the key switch thru a bolt about 1.5" long; plunger travels in line w/shift column & key switch and also connects w/some part of the lock works inside the box section. You have to have the key on, which pushes the plunger forward doing something inside the box section, and you have to have you foot on the brake releasing the cable plunger (or have the plunger end disconnected like I do now). I took the connecting bolt between key switch & box section plunger out, put a few drops of oil using a pin oiler into the plunger cylinder on the box section & worked the plunger back & forth till it was totally free, then applied the hammer to base of box section on shift column several times till I heard something click. Now i can use the column shift at will.
Hope this helps the next poor slob whose old grease cakes up in the lockworks.

EngineerMike

Thought I'd add a coupla pics to flesh the thread out.
Here is the key switch w/lower dash cover removed:

And here is the forward end of key switch mechanism on the right, lockworks box section of the shift column on the left; note the small bolt connecting the white nylon end of the key works to the plunger on the box section that I described above. Key is in the ON position so the white nylon actuator is in the forward position, and shift is in Park. The plunger on the box section acts as a stop for the shift when the key is OFF or only in ACC; you can see the keyway the plunger occupies in this photo, which would be obscured by the metal tab that will rotate CW over the plunger when taking it out of Park: