Hey guys, My T100 has the 3.4 and a 5 speed standard trans. When I bought the truck it had a 3" body lift and 35" tires. The transmission tunnel hole wasn't trimmed when they installed the lift so the truck wouldn't go into 3rd or 5th all the way and would sometimes pop out of 3rd. I removed the lift and installed 31" tires. I swapped the 5.88 gears that had been installed because of the tires for the stock 4.10's. I also installed a new OEM Toyota cluch. I have 2 issues. I have to force the transmisson into first gear. It will breifly grind then clunk into gear. If you put it into 2nd then it'll slide right into 1st. There isn't hardly any play in my shifter, but the tranny doesn't shift nice and smooth into any of the gears like I've become accustom to Toyota's shifting. It really doesn't like to down shift from 5th to 4th, or 4th to 3rd, but 3rd to 2nd is fine.

My 2nd issue is the rmps the truck runs at 60mph. It turns right at 2500 rpm's at 60 which seems really high. Like I said before I know it has the 4.10 gears in it because I put them in myself. Is this the correct rpm. The best mileage I've ever gotten is 14.5mpg. My Dodge 1ton dually 4X4 gets that and it weighs over twice what the T100 does. Where am I going wrong. I love the truck but something doesn't seem right. Thanks for any help. Ben

 

Did you check the clutch pedal bracket fer cracks? Is it steel colored or black?

Have you checked the shifter seat bushings? Maybe the syncros are hosed?

Have you checked the speed against a GPS? What's the tire specs? Mudders? ATs?

 

My firewall is cracked at the clutch master cylinder mount. I welded a brace in under my dash that seemd to take out all the movement. My clutch bractet is unpainted steel. I don't have a GPS, but that's a good idea. Maybe I could borrow one from my neighbor. How do you check the shifter seat bushing? If my syncros are hosed That means a tranny rebuild, right? My tires are 31X10.50X 15 BFG AT KO's.

 

I had a similar first gear problem. Before delving into clutch hydraulics you should switch the fluid in the trans.
It may be new, but it may not be what your trans likes. I ran GL4 from the dealer for a little bit but it grind ed too much and I could literally notice when it was breaking down from the heat.

What oil do you have in it now?
Check out the stuff from amsoil or redline. Some people on TTORA swear by some of those oils.. Can also search under ttora user name "showstop" as he has a lot of good recommendations on which trans oil to use.

2500 doesn't seem like too much at 60. I'm at 3100 at 70 in my Tacoma
Have you done a tune up on it or plugged it into an OBD2 reader to check for any discrepancies? 02 sensors could be gone, cat could be gone, TPS giving weird readings..
Just a couple things to check

 

I would double-check the clutch pedal bracket very carefully. The unpainted steel was prone to cracking and flexing. The beefed replacement is painted black. Clutch bracket part numbers...

The tire size you have was used as stock on the 1993 T-100 SR5 4WDs...so you should be good.

Not sure if the previous owner would've switched out the speedo gear or not...but the GPS should confirm that.

 

You guys are over the top!! Thank you for all the help. 1st, the trans oil is new, but like you suggested, it may not be exactly the right spec for the T100. I'll check out the other site for suggestion on type and brand of tranny oil. 2nd, 2500 rpm's at 60 may be correct, but it just seems high to me. My dodge 3500 turns 1600 @ 60 my TDI jetta turns 1700 @60 and my acura mdx turns 1750 @ 60. The engine just sounds like it's running too fast for the speed. It just sounds like it needs another gear or two. 3rd, I'll check out the clutch bracket again. I'm thinking I need to just replace the whole bracket and get the plate suggested from the link you guy provided above. Thanks Again for all the help.

 

Sometimes the syncros are just picky and don't like a certain fluid. Thats what I was getting at.

Let us know what you come up with.

 

its got inplay in the tranny and thats why its jumpin out of gear. the rpms are about average for 4.10's. you probably need new syncraniser rings.

 

Have a plain-Jane 96 T100 w/2.7 eng. Called around to price a clutch replacement and got two different quotes... one was "with engine removal," one without having to pull the engine. Anyone know what that's all about? Also, I suspect the cracked clutch sub-assy problem on mine. At first thought it was a bad slave cylinder but replacing was only a temporary fix. I know this forum is full of post about this problem and was wondering if the repair part numbers posted are the same for the 4 cyl. Are there any pictures relating to this repair? Thanks for all the good info.

 

No shop should ever remove the engine to do a clutch. ESPECIALLY on a T100 which has ample room to access bolts and such. If they want to take the engine out, drive very quickly away and don't look back.

Then take it to a shop that knows what they are doing.

 

Thanks. Guy I'm dealing with is pretty straight up. He was scratching his head because for my truck they listed two labor hour charges. One was 3.5 the other something like 12.5. He couldn't believe it either. Anyway, what about the clutch bracket breaking. Any ideas on that. I know I have flex and it's only a couple of bolts but I can't tell if the bracket is on the engine side or cabin. And, do the repair parts fit a '96 T100 4cyl?

 

Yes...the replacement clutch bracket works fer either 4 or 6 cylinder T-100 trucks. I would git the firewall shim bracket as well. Do you have piccies of the fix you did to yer firewall?

 

BamZipPow --- thanks for the info. I don't have pixs was hoping someone posted some here somewhere. Is the bracket in the engine compartment or inside the truck? Mine has some kind of insolation material on the firewall and I wanted to see before tearing it up. Thanks again for the info.

 

You didn't read my thread? It linked the piccies of the replacement parts in this thread on 4x4wire.com...

The nuts are on the engine side on the clutch master cylinder and the clutch bracket is on the driver's side.. The reinforcement bracket would go between the firewall and the clutch master cylinder.

 

Got it... i did see the 4x4wire.com but the pixs weren't registering compared to what I was seeing. Your info here's what I need. May be some life left in that old clutch after all. It's only got 120K on it and I need it to tow my boat some more! Thanks again

 

Are these OEM part numbers and do the repair parts have to be purchased from the dealer?

 

Yes...these are OEM part number and you'll have to git them from a dealer. Don't know of any aftermarket parts that addresses this issue.

 

Thanks for all the help!

 

Replacing clutch pedal bracket on T100... DIDN'T PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to pedal spring orientation when I took it apart. Does anyone have a picture of the assy together? Having a hard time getting it back together. I know... rookie mistake!

 

OK... guess I'll figure it out eventually. Just thought someone might be able to help.
Last up date: SEE LINK BELOW FOR DETAILED PIXS ON SPRING INSTALLATION> It's a Tacoma but everything's the same except the PART NUMBERS!
Definitely the cure for my lack of paying attention when I took mine apart. Getting the spring on without damaging the bushings is the trick!

http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=166