4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Sometimes even continuity testing will show a bad fuse as good. Problem is an ohm meter uses like a micro-amp (or less) of current to test the resistance. So a tiny whisker of metal left on the fuse can handle that. But try to put 10 amps through that same fuse and nothing happens. But a continuity tester is a good place to start.

This is a neat fuse kit, has a test light that you just touch to the top of the fuse:

RAD4Runner

Exactly....
Actually the best way^^ Probe test points shown below...

muddmadness

Are the hazard lights connected to the tail and headlamp relays or is there one on the steering column. I don't think that the reverse lights ever worked and suspect that it may be a separate issue....not good with electrical and would appreciate any help with this I can get.

RAD4Runner

muddmadness,
What truck-year-model? A problem well-stated is a problem half-solved

On 22R-Eliable,
Hazard and horn take power from Haz-horn fuse (15A); They work even with IGN off.
Turn and Back-up lights take power from "Engine" fuse (I know, illogical wiring). They only work when IGN is on.

However,
Both hazards and turns use same flasher relay and wiring to the lights.

If having problem with both turn and back-up lights check engine fuse wiring, to transmission, and also any trailer connector circuits for shorts or open.
Watch out for poor back-up light switch wire management here.

4Crawler, If you've got a moment to spare, I'd appreciate your valuable thoughts on my planned wiring for alternator wiring upgrade (here), where I would connect "B" wire directly to battery (like on GM's), instead of in the middle to FL and fuse network. TIA.

muddmadness

Tuesday(truck)has an 89 22RE, an 80 body, sitting on a 93 4runner chasis with assorted other years worked in with wiring and stuff. Yep she is a real puzzle at times. So getting parts and help is also a challenge. I am under the assumption that the wiring is from the 89 also but recently ran into a puzzling issue with the brake light pedal switch. The switch I have has the switch with a tail and a female plug end that connects to the wiring harness. I looked it up and it appears to be from a celica or corolla years unknown. Unfortunately I did not build this truck, so I am at the mercy of the electrical minions under my hood...lol

RAD4Runner

"She would never say where she came from..."
My truck's name is Ruby Tuesday, but the lyrics apply more to yours - LOL!

We're here to help other Yota owners.
Because of reason you mentioned above, while we can help you, you would need to do the digging and probing into your harness and crawling over/under everything so we'll understand what you have. Pics would be great.

With regards to your electrical know-how, remember we all had to crawl before we could run. You can start by getting a multi-meter. You will need that to find out where all the bastard (LOL!) wiring is going.

I suggest taking it one issue at a time, and IF possible restoring it back to 89 22RE electrical configuration. There are known exceptions where Toyota blew it:

• Starter relay wiring (see my post for fix),
• Headlight wiring (H4 conversion harness with fix)
• Back-up switch wiring and routing (shown here)

muddmadness

Tuesday got her name before I discovered Rockauto and Yotatech. I was ordering all my parts from O'Rielly's auto parts and all her parts would come on Tuesday so the name stuck.

It's funny you should mention pics, I dug out the camera today so I could get pics to send to you for the reasons you mentioned. It is planned for today to crawl over/under and trace back the Reverse light wiring I tried to test it yesterday and could not find power in the switch wiring. So it may just have a loose wire or not be connected to power. As for the brakes and hazards I tested the fuses and found that I had some blown fuses due to a loose ground wire. I also tested the stop light switch and found that it was faulty. I still want to send you a picture of the switch so maybe we can determine what year vehicle the wiring came from, at least I will have a starting point.

It has been a year that I have had this truck and it has been a steady challenge everyday to bring her back to life. Still wrestling with her CA smog and licensing but I am almost there. CA says she is "special construction" not Toyota now and that brings its own challenges and privileges too. As soon as we found out she had to go for a state brake and light test her lights went bye-bye I think they are going to make me remove the headers and get a catalytic converter too. You wouldn't have any suggestions on where to find stock exhaust parts would you?

muddmadness

I traced back the wires to the power source to find a plug that looks like it is supposed to be plugged into my ecm. however my ecm has three sockets not four. It is my thinking that the switch should need only two things power and ground, so I am considering just running a power and a ground and seeing if that works. my only concern is that...which side is power and which side is ground. I don't know enough about wire color coding to tell the difference so sending pics in the morning

RAD4Runner

Oh no, don't connect anything to it, yet. Refer to schematic I posted above, and follow the wires. hopefully yours run same and has same colors. Then we confirm that your wiring is similar to 22RE.

Keep negative test probe on known-good chassis ground, and use red probe to probe red wire from back-up switch back to engine fuse, until you see where 12V is. Then you know where the break is between last point on red wire you probed and the point where you start to see 12V.

muddmadness

here are pics of the wiring from switch to cab, this is not the original wiring from what I can tell. The two red and blue wires run straight from the switch to the cab with no stops in between and they are the only two like that. I don't know why it was wired like that unless it ran to on of the 3 or 4 fuse hubs that I do not have. I have one that is stock for her 80 body with the round glass fuses in it. That is why I was thinking of running power and a ground to it. The second pic is the wiring under the hood, and the last is the plug that the two wires run to in the cab. With no power to the switch I have no way to test it to see if the switch is out or not....troubled

muddmadness

This is the pic of the brake light switch, not sure what year this is can't find it like this for the 89 or 93 which is what I thought I was working from.

muddmadness

80 fuse box pic

RAD4Runner

Let's check your back-up light system first:
The red wire with blue stripe and the red wire are consistent with 1986-1988 22RE wiring. Please do the following checks below. Regardless of what you do, ditch those ghetto butt-connectors. They're probably the culprit in the first place.



Let us know what you find out.

IF switch mounts properly, and resistance between green wires go low when brake is pressed and open when brake is released, you're OK.

Please post clear schematic of 80 truck, AND fuse block diagram so we can help you.

Red wire pinched in fuse is ghetto. Find out what it supplies. Let us know what system it supplies so we can see where power should really come from. If you do not need what it supplies, get rid of that.

muddmadness

I knew you would balk at the wiring connections but that is why I sent pics so you would understand the issues I was facing. The red wire on the fuse box is to my fuel pump. I understand that it is terrible to look at and is ghetto but now that we are on the wiring restoration of Tuesday I can deal with that too. Her original wiring is there and it one of those that I have to trace back and find out where the short is. I almost took it off when I took the pic but figured you might as well know its there too....sigh! I looked for a wiring schematic for the 80 body but I am having a hard time finding one. I put in a request on the electrical forum to see if anyone had a pic or could direct me to where to look Thank you very much for the step by step instructions for checking the lights and wiring I will do that today and let you know what comes of it. I did check the brake switch and it came up bad. Just wish I knew what year harness it came from so I could replace it with the right one. Still doing the investigation on it.

RAD4Runner

LOL! No problem. it's always good to see the facts, and you knowing it goes to fuel pump is one good info. All we need is find out where it should be wired to on stock fuse block.

Other thing is 80 was carburated, but your fuel pump should now be for the 22R-E EFI, correct? No problem.

My post on how Circuit Opening Relay Works shows how it and fuel pump are supposed to be wired. Good idea to start finding those components on your truck and checking wiring.

BTW, pls PM me whereabouts in CA you're in.

muddmadness

So I traced the wiring and checked for power like you said, interestingly enough while putting everything back together under the hood I solve some other mysteries that have plagued me for some time, and yes they were wiring issues:
While testing wires today I accidently found two wires that were hot..(sparks gave it away) These same two wires go up through the floorboard into the ignition (steering column, I have two ignitions just so you know). I remember seeing them when we had the tran out to replace the throw out bearing over Christmas. One blue and one white going to tran. Just a guess but I think they may be power and ground for the switch. I will send a pic in the morning.
I am pretty sure that my cold start injector time switch is supposed to have a ground and it was just flopping around under the EFI intake assembly free to do what it wanted. Just replaced the switch and still had to give it starting fluid to get it to crank over.

Is the alternator supposed to be grounded? I replaced the alternator and my charge light is still lit up, yep another wiring thing I think. there is a ground wire(Black with brass ground connection) coming from wires that go to the alternator? It also was flopping around freely to do what it wanted I know so many questions..lol

RAD4Runner

LOL! Black wire from Alternator is most likely ground for alternator harness.
22R-E has one, too. Although alternator should already be grounded through its body.

"One blue and one white going to tran" not sure about that. Gotta check schematic.

muddmadness

Here are the pics of the mystery wires, I believe what happened with these is this: installed wiring harness That was not complete. The plug pic with red and blue wires from tranny probably hooked up with a female harness plug that appears to be missing. I believe that they must of have just not reconfigured it back to the power and ground and just left it. The blue and white wires are tacked to the inside firewall and run up to the ignition. They are only hot when ignition is on. BTW I found a friend that has the book on the 80 yota body and is bringing it to me tomorrow. I will take a pic of the schematic and post it when I get it

muddmadness

Found this pic on Rock Auto, 86 Corolla. Wont be ordering it from the Rock 31.00 shipping for a 10.00 part. Guess I will be visiting O'Reillys on Tuesday....ahahahahahah lol

RAD4Runner

Oh no, don't just blindly run power and ground to things; You could do more damage than good. Trace where they're going to first. If your not sure, post it, before you do anything.

The safest way to test a switch is with it disconnected and without power. Do resistance check with a multi-meter.

There is no ground wire for back-up switch, only power from engine fuse and output to back-up lights.

Re: Fuse block
Getting a first-gen 4Runner or later fuse block, then following 22R-E first gen wiring would be the cleaner way to go because:

1. Your 22RR wiring is closer to a first-gen 4Runner than to an early 80's truck, AND
2. The newer fuse blocks and ATO fuses have betetr protection from the elements than those glass ones.