grousehunter 61

Thank you sir, never one to jump into things, I will check in the morning when its cool, 98 right now, to hot to do much..........

grousehunter 61

OK back again.......tested the EFI again, checks good. ran a wire from the battery plus side to the ground on the fuel pump through my test light and got a bright light,,,,,used a small jumper from B+ to F and got bright light on the pos terminal of the fuel pump, the schematic shows that bypasses everything, tried to start it---nothing....a new fuel pump is on its way.....ok one last check, if I, with a multimeter, connect the hot terminal on the fuel pump to the ground, terminal should I get continuity or not. I feel like it should but not sure.

grousehunter 61

OK tested the cont between the hot side of the pump and the ground side and it showed cont. The pump didn't start pumping even when I went through the DLC1 ( B+--FP ) but there was power on the positive side of the pump so I half to think the pump is not working, but I also don't get power with the key on to the positive side of the pump. In the system diagram that was sent to me it shows a circuit opening relay in front of the fuel pump. Anybody have any idea where it is at in the vehicle and what it looks like....It feeds power to the fuel pump and should be located somewhere after the EFI main relay.........

grousehunter 61

Found the COR, its under the passenger side kick panel, held on with a bolt on a 1993 4 runner 3.0 V6. Its about mid way down and is in backwards, as in you can't see the relay, only the base.........

grousehunter 61

At my wits end, ordered a new fuel pump-filter from rock auto and a used circuit opening relay off of E-bay. Pulled my old pump and replaced it with the new Denso pump, wired it up using the original wiring connectors, plugged in the
COR- turned the key------nothing-----the motor turned over, the dash lights came on--but no fire......I then jumped the diagnostic, B+ to FP,,, with my test light I checked the hot wire to the fuel pump, test light lit up so the connector was getting power but not through the COR, at this point I figured I got a bad COR........it is a used part, but bypassing the COR and getting power to the pump should get the pump running, I disconnected the fuel pump fuel lines and tried it again, nothing, the pump is not running. I then pulled the pump back out, wired it so I could check it outside the fuel tank, went directly from the + and - on the battery, to the pump,nothing.......I am begging to think that this vehicle is jinked. What started out as a $500.00 steal has about wiped out my bank account, new motor, headers, cold air, rebuilt the rear end, new muffler and tail pipe, tires and rims. and it sits in my yard NOT RUNNING !!!! A little about my background, I have been a mechanic most of my life, from my hot rods in the 50's, spent my military time as the crew chief on a B47 bomber, took a 23 year break in law enforcement, and the last 14 years working as the mechanic on a golf course, overhauling all types of mowers, rebuilding tractors, trouble shooting all types of motors, but this thing has me stumped. Yes at my age (77) I am not as sharp as I once was but I am not dumb, My 71 chevy 4x4 has 522,000.00 miles on it, I bought it new in 71 and it has never been back to the dealer or other mech, But I am stumped, what am I doing wrong, any help........?????

akwheeler

[QUOTE=grousehunter 61;52405111]At my wits end, ordered a new fuel pump-filter from rock auto and a used circuit opening relay off of E-bay. Pulled my old pump and replaced it with the new Denso pump, wired it up using the original wiring connectors, plugged in the
COR- turned the key------nothing-----the motor turned over, the dash lights came on--but no fire......I then jumped the diagnostic, B+ to FP,,, with my test light I checked the hot wire to the fuel pump, test light lit up so the connector was getting power but not through the COR, at this point I figured I got a bad COR........it is a used part, but bypassing the COR and getting power to the pump should get the pump running, I disconnected the fuel pump fuel lines and tried it again, nothing, the pump is not running. I then pulled the pump back out, wired it so I could check it outside the fuel tank, went directly from the + and - on the battery, to the pump,nothing.......QUOTE]

Not knowing just what you are dealing with (wired it up using the original wiring connectors) I would say you need to check that you have the fuel pump and fuel level sender wires correct and not crossed. If you are sure you CORRECTLY connected the PUMP wires directly to positive and ground and the pump did not run that would point to a bad pump. Occasionally I run across new parts that do not work, so check and double check.
Wiring diagrams are your friend and pictures would help us help you.

grousehunter 61

The original wiring connector is the one that came on the fuel pump and the original connector on the hot and ground wires on the fuel pump frame, due to the configuration , you cannot switch them. The fuel level sender and the pump are on different systems and not close to each other. To pull the fuel level sender I would need to cut another hole in the floorboards, and I just might. the gas gage is very slow, takes about 15 min to show full, so I guess I will need one of those also. I have ordered a new pump and COR, if that doesn't do it I am going to sell it for parts.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Your saying in your whole life wrenching on cars for profit and fun this is the first one that has you a little befuddled

If that is the case your luck has been much better then mine

My $500.00 project topped out at $20,000.00 plus all the assorted uncounted things only to have Mother Nature drop 3 trees on the truck that fell up hill thanks to the wind

Use your Meter to test the voltage it might be so low not enough to cause the pump to start .

You have the battery charged or the charger hooked up

You will get it figured out.

In this day and age lots of electric parts fail out of the box

grousehunter 61

Wyoming9, I'll figure it out in time, I tested the voltage and its right on, the battery is new and fully charged, the new fuel pump just didn't work nor did the second hand COR. It was a disappointment as the toy has been sitting now for over a month and I figured I had it fixed with the new parts but no such luck. The third time I took the pump out I rigged up a wire loom and went straight to the battery, nothing........now I find that the COR I ordered is coming from Germany, it might get here this year.??? No, this is not the first but I sure hope its the last, I was working on a John Deere fairway mower that when you put the reels down one would go down and the other side would go up, took me about 4 days to figure it out, a wire had broken inside a wire bundle, the outer sheath was intact but the wire was broke. When I retired I figured I was through with that kind of stuff, guess not............

grousehunter 61

Parts arrived today, I couldn't believe the package the COR came in, you could have shipped a basket ball in it and it did not come from Germany, it came from midland auto parts
Sharjah City, United Arab Emirates, where ever that is.......and I had to sign for it ??? Its pushing 100 right now so not sure if I will go out and work on it, I try to do this stuff in the early morning. All I can say is this better do it.

grousehunter 61

OK new fuel pump is in and the new COR is in and I have fuel pressure, Now back to the original problem, it still wont run. In the morning when its cool I will start testing all the ignition parts, I have a new coil and igniter. I pulled the air cleaner off and tried to manually open the flapper valve in the air intake but it did not seem to make a difference, I will know more in the morning..

grousehunter 61

I tested the coil, the book calls for 0.9 -15.4 it tested 13.783 so that isn't it, I also tested the secondary resistance and it was a little high 036-055 and it tested 1.4, I tested the pickup coil, G to G2 13.72---G to G1 13.77--G to NE 6.89, not sure just what the numbers means as the book doesn't give the numbers. The last thing I checked was the distributor, the air gap is .08 to .16, I tried a 16 and it would not go in, a .07 would go but very tight, a .06 slides in but also tight. Unless someone has a better idea I guess a new distributor is in order. The one thing I didn't check and it should have been the first was the timing, dumb dumb dumb .......

grousehunter 61

This shows you how an old mind works, I can't check the timing, no power to the spark plug wires... How can you check if the timing belt broke with out pulling the front motor cover off.

grousehunter 61

OK figured it out, the distributor runs off the driver side cam if the distributor is turning so is the cam, and so the timing belt is working. Do you think that 2 thousands is enough to shut the motor down, I realize that its at the bottom of the wear allowance. I hate to pay 200.00 for a new distributor if I don't need to. Anybody have a guess.........

akwheeler

Check youtube, you may find some handy tips on testing.
As an example, I found a video on testing the coil/igniter on a Honda. A 30 second test with a test light verified it needed a coil, it had power when the key was on and the ground was pulsed when cranking but there was no spark.
Since I haven't had to troubleshoot this issue on mine (or any 3VZ-E engine since 20 years ago) I don't know off-hand what to check, but don't throw a new distributor at it until you have tested to be sure there is power and ground where and when it is required.
I mentioned before, you NEED a wiring diagram. If you have already verified any of this please let us know.

grousehunter 61

Checked continuity on the coil to distributor wire and it is 4.56, don't know if that is god or bad , nothing in the Haynes Repair Manual that relates to it...

akwheeler

continuity means nothing if there is no power to the coil

grousehunter 61

I stated in a prior post that I had power to the coil, checked the black and red wire and with the key on it is hot, this wire comes from the igniter..but I don't have power coming out of the coil, or I don't know how to test it. I am going to check the airflow meter next.

What I should have done when I bought it, I had a chevy v6 90 degree that I should have put in the car and eliminated all this crap.........

akwheeler

generally the ignition switch supplies power to the coil and the igniter pulses the ground which causes the coil to create a spark. I can't look up videos from the computer I am on or I would try to find you something on troubleshooting. but if you have power to the coil and you apply ground on and off to the correct wire you should get sparks from the coil wire.

grousehunter 61

AK Wheeler, I thank you for you help but I am about to toss this thing, I have checked every thing I can and I am no closer then I was when I started.....I called the go to Toyota guy and have an appointment for next week. I have access to a car hauler and next Thursday it will be in McCall Idaho....


I notice that you are in Alaska, where about??? my son lives in Petersburg.......