grousehunter 61

My ignition switch went bad and I replaced it, in order to do that I dropped the steering column so I could get to the small screw holding it on. As this is a used car and I don't know who all has a key to it, I replaced the key switch while I had it down. When I went to put it back up I touched something and it sparked and I lost power to the dash and radio and clock. I have pulled all the fuzes and they check good with the continuity meter but still no power. This is a 1993 4runner. I read where they have a fuze compartment behind the glove box, so I dropped it also, couldn't find any fuzes there and pulled the kick panel on the drivers side, can't find anything there that looks burnt or out of place. Anybody have any ideas to what I may have messed up. To explain what I was doing I had the steering column on my lap and pushed it to the left and up when the spark happened, I don't see anything on the top of the column that has hot wires on it. Any way, I did not disconnect the battery, dumb-dumb-dumb.... I was using the radio to make sure I had it in the acc position.

grousehunter 61

I have been checking the fusible links and all seem to be in working order. The red & black wire that I was told feeds the fuse panel inside the cab, driver side, has no power, I can't seem to find out where it is hooked to the electoral system, meaning the fuse panel on the passenger side fender well. I have checked all the fuses and the relays .

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

so everything works but the radio and clock?
sometimes there is an inline fuse for the radio on the hot wire for that.

but now i see that you say the dash too.
It sounds like you may have pinched a wire during your column work that caused the short when it grounded out and sparked. Hate to say it but you may need to trace the wiring in the column harness to see if you see a cut/crimped wire.

Before going that route check the fuses and relay's under the hood, possible a fuse or fusible link (i think those looked like big guses (been awhile since I looked at the engine compartment fuse block) that could be responsible for feeding the smaller kick panel fuse box

grousehunter 61

All this work, the toy is apart in the driveway and I found a 40 amp fusible link connector that is burnt. When I first tested it I got a light showing it was connected, the second time I noticed it was a little darker then the 30 amp sitting next to it, checked again, light came on the tester, but it felt a little loose, lifted the wire with the tester and the light went out, it was burned at the bottom where you could not see it, and in testing I was pushing it down and it made contact. Its going to take me 3 days to put it back together, I have the driver side seat out, glove box is sitting on the back seat, both kick panels are on the floor, steering column is held on by one nut, of course all the lower dash is off, but I have a new key!!!!!!LOL

L5wolvesf

Have you disconnected the battery yet?

grousehunter 61

Yes !!!! won't do that again...

grousehunter 61

I have replaced the control module--the coil---ignition lock cylinder--ignition starter switch----the 40 amp fuse in the outside fuse box--tested the 40 inside behind the glove box. I have power back to the dash and starter, clock, radio, dash readouts, motor turns over great, just no start. It will not fire, what have I missed ??? In my original post I stated that I was driving when it just shut off, it didn't stutter, back fire, didn't stumble, just quit. I am at my wits end, it has 1/2 tank of fuel, and was running great when this happened. If the fuel pump quit and didn't have the pressure to open the injectors would that cause an instant stop of the motor. I pulled the fuel line off and there was pressure at the time it quit but not sure as to the amount of pressure.......

grousehunter 61

I just tested the electoral system and it seems to be working, I tested the red and black wire going to the igniter and it was hot with the key on, I then tested the coil and it was also hot with the key on. Pulled the fuel line again and it had very little pressure, Not happy about this, probably fuel all along but having never having a fuel injected vehicle before I was not aware of its operating habits, My chevy tells me when its going to run out of gas, this thing just quits.

akwheeler

I think if you want more help you will have to fill in some blanks.
Did you check for spark? (if you do it means you have a fuel supply problem or the injectors are not firing unless the spark is at the wrong time)
Did you try some starting fluid? (if it doesn't start you have a spark/timing/compression problem)
Do you have a wiring diagram and a meter?
And... most importantly, what engine do you have? All we know from your first post is that you have a 93 4runner.
Please create a signature line that includes your Year/make/model/engine/transmission.

grousehunter 61

Sorry about that, its a 3.0 v6 and I didn't try starting fluid, but my last post confirms its the fuel pump, I think .......very little pressure in the fuel line, its a new pump that has been in there only a few months, one of the things I was told to check was the fuel relay???? wonder where that is? Will do on the signature line.

grousehunter 61

OK where and how do you create a signature line ??????

akwheeler

I didn't see anything definitive about your post on the fuel pump, it sounded more like "I'm suspicious about the low fuel pressure when I disconnected the fuel line".
to edit your signature go to your profile page and look along the left side of the page.

akwheeler

maybe this diagram will help, never mind, I can't get it to load

grousehunter 61

Ok, tested the power to the fuel pump, nothing, I am going to by pass everything and run a line from the battery to the fuel pump, that should tell me if the pump is working. If it works them it has to be the relay, now only if I can find it, kick panel passenger side ? under the hood fuse block???????

akwheeler

Don't forget you need power AND ground for the pump to run, use a fuse on your jumper also!
If the pump runs it does NOT automatically point to a relay problem. You still need a wiring diagram and a meter.
Test for power AND ground on the control side of the relay AND power to the load contact. If you put a jumper across the load contact and the pump runs try connecting 12 volts to the positive side of the control terminals and see if the relay actuates and the pump starts.
From you original post when you stated you shorted something in the dash it is not likely that you damaged the pump or the relay.
You have likely blown a fuse or a fusible link that you still have not found.

grousehunter 61

I cut a hole in the floor boards when I first bought the toy, to replace the fuel pump and am in the process of removing the pump again. Once out I will test it to see if it will run, if it does, I will reinstall it and try to find the relay. I have a elect fuel pump in my Camaro and it is wired from the oil pressure switch to the pump, why all these relays and fuses. I am probably going to wind up selling this thing before this is over.I am long in the tooth but short in patience.

grousehunter 61

Just checking, I attached my test light to the ground post of the battery, I then turned the ignition switch to run, I then, using the test light, made contact with the hot post on the fuel pump and the light came on, indicating that power is getting to the pump but the pump is not running. The power has to be coming from the wire on the pump and returning to ground via the test light. Am I right or wrong????

old87yota

Yes, you are right.

Now try testing the ground side by doing the same thing. Attach the clamp of the test light to the positive battery terminal and probe the ground wire terminal on the fuel pump connector. If you have a good ground, the test light will light up nice and bright.

What changed from the test you just did to this one ^^ ?

Here is the fuel pump wiring diagram and testing procedure for a 3VZ-E: http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhake...87fuelpump.pdf

grousehunter 61

I also changed the fuse ( main 40 amp ) and that powered the system and the dash---radio-clock-dash lights-etc. but I was still not getting power to the fuel pump, I was a little leary of a hot wire to the pump. If you start at the beginning you can see I caused all this, I dropped the steering column to change the ignition switch and arked the column on something, when I did that everything went cold, no power to anything, I repaired all that and then noticed that there was no fuel pressure, checking that I found no power to the fuel pump. I have been trying to find the fuel pump relay but so far no luck, one book said it was under the dash on the passenger side, another said it was under the hood in the main fuse box,but I haven't found it yet, I know where the main EFI relay is and it tested good, I love the car, but its becoming a love /hate thing. thank you for the diagram, I printed it out.

akwheeler

If you are getting power to the fuel pump you don't need to check the relay, check the ground and if you have both power and ground and the pump doesn't run you need a fuel pump. you could also put your test light across the power and ground wires at the connector to the fuel pump and see if it lights up when you turn the key. if there is any question give it power and give it ground and see if it runs. if using a jumper wire just make sure you have a fuse in line near the battery end before you connect it.