L5wolvesf

How about the other side where it connects to the fuse box?

Gregery

So I just considered the possibility of a bad ignition switch.
In fact, come to think of it, the Previous owner Did actually replace the ignition switch... He didn't tell me this, but I did find the old ignition switch rolling around in the cab. ... But, He also replaced the fusible link with regular automotive wire... Just as I did. So I'm wondering if I kinda fell into the same odd trap.

To test the hypothesis, I think I'm going to try Hot-Wiring the truck. -- Well I'll test for Voltage at the Ignition Switch Connector.
If this is the case I think I might just install a few toggle switches including a secret one for power, a push button for the starter.

... And, Add a small Fuse / Fuse box to that Toggle switch as well!!

millball

Jumpers?? ign bypass??? toggle switches? pushbutton start......

Remind me never to buy any machine from you. That said, its your truck and you can do whatever you want with it. Good luck.

L5wolvesf

FWIW, I would get the truck back to stock working condition before anything else. With what you described as already being done before, the problem(s) could be anywhere. Testing, as RAD4 alluded to will determine where the problem(s) are. Just a guess here, based on what you've said so far, is that the things done before were possibly because of a starter relay issue - again just a gut feeling here. But you have a number of electrical things that have been patched/hacked in and adding to them isn't the path I would go down.

RAD4Runner

Keep it simple.
1) Restore to stock. We can't help you effectively if your vehicle is not stock because we base troubleshooting on stock condition wired to stock schematics.
2) That solder looks bad. Wire should be twisted well around each other, then soldered. For wires 12AWG and thicker I strongly-recommend 80-Watt soldering iron. OR use a parallel crimp (search the forum or my thread for that).
3) We have yet to see pics or your statement in no uncertain terms that the battery post and the connector have bare, shiny metal touching bare, shiny metal.How do we know that you did not miss it? If we did not see the repair on the Fusible Link wire, we would not have known that it was soldered poorly.

Gotta help us SEE what you're dealing with.

A PROBLEM WELL -STATED IS A PROBLEM ALMOST SOLVED.
I would help if you listed what systems work and what systems do not work in un-cluttered, exact, specific, and not wordy manner.
i.e.

IGN OFF:
These work:
1) Headlights? Tail Lights?
2) Horn, hazards
.
.
.

These do not work:
1)
2)
.
.
.

Turn IGN to Accessories:
These work...
1) Radio?
2) Cigarette lighter socket?
.
.
.
These do not work:
1)
2)
3)
.
.
.

Turn IGN ON
What work?
1) Turn Signals?
2) Back-up light?
3) Charge Light on?
4) CEL light on?
...

What do not work?
1)
2)
3)
...

Turn IGN to Start:
1) Does C.O.R. click?
2) Starter relay clicks?
(Sorry, I have a 22RE, I don't know where you C.O.R. is)
3) Starter solenoid clicks?
.
.
.

Gregery

Ok..

Key to off. Nothing works.
No headlights. No horn.


Key to A/C or On
Nothing powers up.
No horn no lighits no turn signals
Reverse light. Cigarette lighter, stereo, AC/heater Nothing.

Key to Start. Nothing.
​​​no click(s), or buzzing.. Nothing.

But what is C.O.R??


(Working on showing points of contact photos)
​​​​

RAD4Runner

C.O.R. is Circuit Opening Relay but let us not get there.

Problem is much upstream. Between your battery and your fuse block.
How old is battery?
Did you get it tested?
What is battery voltage EXACTLY AT BATTERY POST with everything off?
What voltage do you get EXACTLY BEFORE fusible Link solder with everything off?
What voltage do you get EXACTLY AFTER the fusible Link solder with everything off?

Now try ALL those readings EXACTLY AT SAME POINTS with headlight switch on.

AGAIN: need picture of your fuses for more test points, BUT I think we'll find out something just with above tests.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

so i know this is not part of your issue but I would address this while you are working under your hood
it looks like your positive battery lead was shorted. cut the black cable and re-attach it looks like it is about to fall out, probably not that bad but doesn't look good. Probably wouldn't hurt to replace it.


and its the yellow wire actual fusible link primary wire?

Gregery

Thank you for looking so closely Dropzone.
Looks like the bolt was coming in very close contact with the hood, evidence of this shows under the hood as well.

-- Last year I had an accident, The hood latch no longer functions properly... Bungie Cord deteriorated, Black Tiedown bands worked 'better.' but eventually broke also. Eventually I installed Hood Locks.
Well, It looks like, the right side was getting pulled down farther than it should.. Starting today, I've already stopped using the pin on the battery side.. I'll be raising the Hood-lock bolt, and I'll install a rubber spacer soon as I can... Temporarily, without the pin, it already sits a half inch higher... I'm also going to shave both of those bolts on the terminal connector.

But on the note of the Positive wire pulling free or falling out of the terminal, connector... It does appear that way in this photo doesn't it... The jacket was slightly over cut, but the wire is All the way in there tight, and solid, ends are right next to the Battery Terminal post.





So Anyways.. .. Today the truck started.. 2 times now. I concluded (though I'm now second guessing this) that it was actually the Clutch Override Switch or circuit that was causing a short.
(See, I've made it a habit, that, on first start, I let it idle for a bit. But, rather than getting in the truck, just to start the engine, and get back out again... Instead I'll stand next to the truck, start the engine in neutral without the clutch, and the Override Switch engaged... I'll have a drink, use the restroom or install the shoes to my feet.. And then get in and go.)

Well.. today.. After reassembly of the primary fuse box... there was a faint popping, and sparkling at the negative terminal when I connected the battery.. Prompting me to want to try the ignition again.. I had previously noticed that when this happens I would have electricity in the truck again.. .. So... I got all the way in the truck, and Prayed to God!! Because Walking 4 or 5 miles a day in triple digit Temps, just charge my cell and computer isn't fun, or easy. After praying, I Pressed the clutch in and started er right up... Well, that's when I realized -- with the one exception of the first time it didn't start.. Every other time after.. I've been trying to start the engine standing beside the truck, or sitting only halfway in the seat, and using the Clutch override instead of the clutch itself.

I checked the voltage at the battery at idle, 14.35 - 14.55 volts.

Right... So, a Further update... I went to my storage unit and picked up the rest of my tools, This will make things much easier.... But... I stopped also to get something to eat, but I got back in the truck, "planning" to start as normal, WITH the Clutch.. .. Turned the key to On... Nothing.. just as before, no electricity.... no clicks.. nothing.
Well... At least I'm on an incline... ... Facing the incline, I attempted to push start.. in reverse.. in a busy parkinglot. FUN! Grrr.. it didn't start, but the indicator lights did flicker. After a second attempt however the indicator lights now fully lit, and Key started (with clutch) just fine.

I'll be showing connection photos in a moment.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I bet the problem might be that Emergency type battery Terminal .

It does not take much to cause a poor connection with that type .

Gregery

Sorry I missed that.
You'r looking for a change in voltage, corresponding to where the voltage is read, hoping that the voltage read will change when read just after the soldered connection.
I didn't take those readings exactly... but.. I did do one similar, having the exact same thought.

Voltage at battery, -- Post to Post. 12.45v
Voltage between Batt Positive, And Engine Head. 12.45v
(This reading passes through the Engine-Ground.)