Lights not working !! Oh no!!
#1
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Well my turn signals quit working but wow the marker lights don`t work either .it is only on the front of the vehicle .
I am at a complete loss??
till I get my meter to see just what is going on .
I really don`t have the mind set to be always taking pictures so I never think of it.
Since the turn signals and marker lights were both not working.
I think it can be only one thing I have lost the ground.
Checking the continuity of the ground I get none.
I then check for Voltage at the lights grounding direct to negative terminal of battery both marker and turn signals which I now have.
Since the wires are in split loom I get it all exposed at points(splices) I can test .
This is very hard for most to understand but the ring terminal attached to the negative battery terminal even after cleaning just would not conduct .
Looking fine to the naked eye just using a visual inspection never in 1000 years would you think it could be the problem.
Not having the correct solder on terminal I just installed a crimp on terminal till I get the correct one later today.
To fix it correct .
From seeing the problem to having it working maybe 45 minutes.
#3
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Pray tell why should I get the battery tested ??
Please explain the theory behind that?
Let alone at a Auto Part Store??
When if need be I can break out my own charging system tester which by chance can also load test batteries.

Please explain the theory behind that?

Let alone at a Auto Part Store??
When if need be I can break out my own charging system tester which by chance can also load test batteries.
#4
An ECU gets mixed signals when the battery life is over or the chargeing system has a failure.
Lug corrosion and terminal connections should be dielectrical greased after cleaning/diagnoseing to rule these out of the equasion. Hope this helps you Bro!
Bills86e
Lug corrosion and terminal connections should be dielectrical greased after cleaning/diagnoseing to rule these out of the equasion. Hope this helps you Bro!
Bills86e
#5
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
I was not aware that the ECM/ECU controlled the lights good to know.I guess I have to give credit for you trying at least

I can just see my reading teachers spinning in the coffins!!
Any Who soldered on the correct terminal put on some glop to keep it from corroding heat shrinked .
Double checked everything .
Good to go.
Funny thing the truck never moved from when I put the crimp on terminal on just in case.
Last edited by wyoming9; Dec 7, 2013 at 06:02 AM.
#6
Which terminal did you have to resolder? I have been following along, just didnt have any suggestions as you have a stronger understanding of elelctric. I would of suspected a ground. I have had one blinker not work, but it was the ground wire inside the blinker assembly.
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Pretty much the whole post was just blowing off steam after a crazy work week.Along with a pretty good guide to troubling shooting any minor electrical issue.
I get it all to often things so simple blown into a major problem.
Now I designed and wired these lights on just lights to fit my old style Smitty Built Bumper on my Tacoma.
Without this one is pretty much lost on a strange vehicle so Schematics (EWD) and a Meter make it so much easier.
I am a solder and heat shrink person and I did not have the correct terminal on hand and wanted to do it correct.
I put a crimp on one on just in case I needed to make one of those emergency double time service calls .
That are most often " see that switch if you read the users manual (like you Should) you would no it needs to be up not down for what your doing.
Sometimes it is just fun to fix your own stuff because it is so simple.
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