RAD4Runner

Correct.
Like^^^ Stock IG (red) to excite the alt. This gets only 12V when IGN is on.
Do not use S (wire) that always has 12V when good battery is connnected. It taps off the B wire near or at the fuse block.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

cool to know about S. My copy of FSM the wiring schematic is lacking.

GreyYota87

I'll take a look into doing that tonight! My only question regarding that is what about charging. Wouldn't I need a lead coming off the battery to the alternator to charge it? Or does the self exciting start the charge?

thanks again everyone for the input on this subject! Hope to get things sorted out tonight after work. Will keep you updated! And if you guys have any more information that may be helpful please let me know!

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Alt B post to battery
gound to chassis

connector:
1-charge light
2-ignition wire

RAD4Runner

That's the IG (red) wire.
Please see previous post here... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131.../#post52384965

Thommo Thompson

just not going to read all the replies, but a self regulating alternator is supposed to draw current.
the solution is to have both the charging and field wires connected to the ON bus instead of the main BUS so that the parasitic drain only happens with engine on.
i left my jeep to some monkeys who rewired it and caused the same problem. Most if not all, dont understand how the alternator worka. that includes online sources so dont bother googling "how to", theyre all wrong unfortunately.

Thommo Thompson

if i5s connected directly to the battery. it will be a serious parasitic drain at those amps.

GreyYota87

So I still haven't been able to test the wires to see if it works properly without draining the battery. I spoke with someone at an alternator/starter shop today about the issue of having voltage and the pins. According to him pin #1 should be wired to ignition and should only have power when the key is on. The fact that it is producing a constant voltage makes me believe the internal regulator is bad. With in the next few days I will be wiring the alternator from the B post the the positive post on the battery. I will also be swapping pin #1 to ignition and pin # to the alt light. I'd like to see what this does before I go about taking the alternator out to either replace the regulator or try and warranty the alternator out

RAD4Runner

OK, OK... Posts on 10SI wiring are conflicting on what they call pin 1 and pin 2.
I found a website (https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...iagram.260412/) AND a youtube video (watch only up to 6:22 mark, below).

Based on these latest finds, and from that mech's recommendation:
Pin 1 is the "momentary" excitation for the alternator, while Pin 2 is the "sense" wire.
Then, your 10SI should be wired this way...


According to the youtube video the indicator lamp should be 194 bulbs, 3.8-W, like this: http://www.bulbs.com/product/194B2

THE BIG QUESTION REMAINS UNANSWERED:
Is it normal for Pin1 to always have 12V even when ONLY B wire is connected and the alternator is not running? If this it requires power from the indicator lamp OR the switched wire from Ignition that mech says it needs, why does already have 12V?

RAD4Runner

OOPS Duplicate.

Thommo Thompson

which wire is actually causing the drain?

RAD4Runner

He said PIn1. It has constant 12V even when only B wire is connected. It does not sound normal.
We are asking fellow members with 10SI's if theirs are the same.

As I mentioned above, there are conflicting posts:
One says Pin1 is the Charge Fault Pin and Pin2 is the excitation pin.
Other posts say Pin1 is BOTH excitation and Charge fault pin at the same time, while pin2 is snese (feedback) wire.
Youtube video says, PIn 1 initially takes power through the charge fault light at start, then I guess it self-excites and goes high so now there is no more potential difference across Charge fault light.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

When you turn key to run position, does charge and brake idiot lights come on?

Why not pull alt and take it to local alt store to be tested? Since that is a concern and you’ve already talked to them. Dropping the alt is not that bad. Both the yota and cs130 don’t require removal of lower rad hose. Just a bit of Tetris. So imagine 10si is similar.

If you are concerned about conflicting info about about alt pins then go to Remy-Delco site. They originally designed and produced alt. I did. It seems this thread has gone over correct wiring, pros and cons of different methods of wiring. Seems all that is left is to do it.

Thommo Thompson

nonetheless, a parasite drain for the alternator can be rectified by simply placing all positive power supplies to it, to the ignition bus. so that when ignition is off, its not connected.

Thommo Thompson

see here....
https://goo.gl/images/zehMeC

as long as pin one and 2 both go to the ignition bus ( part of the fuse box that gets power when key is turned to ON only) , it will all function perfectly.

RAD4Runner

Yes, Thommo, that's how a 3-wire alternator is supposed to me connected IF, and only IF, the alternator itself does not have internal leakage.

Delco-Remy site does not have info on 10SI anymore.
While no one has confirmed that constant 12V at pins 1 and 2 even IF ONLY B wire is connected, I think this is a sign of bad alternator. Why do I say that?

However, on Geryyota's alt, Pin1 and Pin2 always have 12V even if only, AND ONLY B-wire is connected.
Therefore there is leakage inside the alternator from B wire which is always connected to the battery. Even IF pin1 and pin2 are tapped off a switched line (Power run E off of IG1 or power run F off of IG2), there are components/circuits always connected to those power runs downstream of the ignition switch that will end up being connected to Pin 1 and/or pin2, that will cause drain to ground.

Although some may consider an alt that puts out a whopping 3 amperes more than stock an upgrade (LOL!), I say that going back to OEM/stock would be an upgrade on Greyyota's current situation.

GreyYota87

Hey everyone, sorry for the very late reply! Life got hectic for a few days...but for the alternator I'm going to order a new regulator and see if that is the issue. I can only imagine that pin 1 and 2 should only have power when the truck is started. While I wait for the new regulator I'm going to rewire the harness the correct way with a new gm plug. Hoping to have the new regulator by early next week.

in the mean time I'm leaving the gm plug unhooked from the alternator and the draw has gone away, but it's causing the charge light and ebrake light to come on. Not a big deal since I can still drive the truck! Lol

Thommo Thompson

ohhb ok sorry i assumed (honestly i didnt read the posts) that the drain was through the terminals not the chargeing battery cable.
haha. in that case, wouod it be insane to suggest wiring the positive battery cable from the alternator to the ON buss aswell haha?

RAD4Runner

GreyYota,
Here's an important question that would help us understand the NON-Toyota 10SI: With only the B cable connected, what voltage do you get at the battery post and/or alternator screw terminal? If within the range of 13.5 and 15.1V, then that means that the alternator self-excites.

Thommo Thompson

how would it do that, rotation turns on a switch perhaps?

EDIT. OH , YES IT DOES JUST THAT.
http://www.windbluepower.com/Delco_1...p/7127-sen.htm

Intersting, my 2 pin alternator behaves like this, it doesnt start charging (doesnt get excited) till i give it a rev.
But it doesn't excite unless the field wire is connected so its still using a separate field exciter.