BRIGHT factory headlight replacements for 89 Truck??
Aug 4, 2017 | 06:29 AM
#1
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BRIGHT factory headlight replacements for 89 Truck??
Got an 89 truck that is very clean and simple. I don't want a light bar or any accessory lights. Factory style square headlights are not very bright. Just wondering about a good replacement light that is a lot brighter than the stock style. Thanks!
Aug 4, 2017 | 08:55 AM
#2
I have Hella E-code conversion housings and I really like them even with the cheapest 9003 bulb available. Way better than the sealed beams. Autopal is another brand that makes the same basic product. Never used them, but I've read good results. They are cheaper than Hella E-codes. I recommend against HID's because they just blind oncoming traffic and I'm not a douche. You may also read about piggyback relay harnesses which reduce the resistance in wiring to your headlight bulbs. This can also make a difference for light output without replacing bulbs because you're actually going to have a higher voltage (closer to battery voltage which would be perfect) at the bulb. Truck Lite makes a plug and play LED headlight. I'm not really a fan of the look of them. They are quite pricey so not very common. Seems like they put out good light but I don't know how well oncoming traffic likes them. I suggest Hella E-codes or Autopals.
Aug 4, 2017 | 10:05 AM
#3
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Arlindsay, pretty much sums up the good options here.
Google "H4 Conversion Harness"
THIS IS MORE ESSENTIAL THAN REPLACING THE BULB because this fixes the flawed stock wiring (Google "convoluted wiring 4crawler").
To address this and keep the switched-ground control compatible with Truck-Lites, I MODIFIED (HERE - more involved, ot for the faint at heart - LOL!) my wiring instead of using a conversion harness.
Voltage drop comparison:
Stock Wiring
Agree. We do not want to join the legions of a$$holes who blind others on the road. Both conversion housings (Hella, Auto-Pal) have good cut-offs so they do not blind oncoming traffic.
Yes, plug and play BUT require switched-ground control so may not be compatible with H4 conversion harness. Therefore, you must make a decision before hand: H4 conversion harness with halogen? or stock wiring with Truck-Lites.
Halogens in Auto-Pal housing in the desert:
Truck-Lites in the desert:
More here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ptions-296666/
and Here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...review-265275/
...This can also make a difference for light output without replacing bulbs because you're actually going to have a higher voltage (closer to battery voltage which would be perfect) at the bulb.
THIS IS MORE ESSENTIAL THAN REPLACING THE BULB because this fixes the flawed stock wiring (Google "convoluted wiring 4crawler").
To address this and keep the switched-ground control compatible with Truck-Lites, I MODIFIED (HERE - more involved, ot for the faint at heart - LOL!) my wiring instead of using a conversion harness.
Voltage drop comparison:
Stock Wiring
Low Beam:
Batt: 12.05V, Across low beam filament (pins 1 & 3): 11.15V
Voltage drop in wiring: 0.9V
volt drop = 7.5% of battery voltage
High Beam:
Batt 11.94, Across high beam filament (pins 2 & 3): 10.07
Volt drop: 15.7% of battery voltage!
Corrected wiring:Batt: 12.05V, Across low beam filament (pins 1 & 3): 11.15V
Voltage drop in wiring: 0.9V
volt drop = 7.5% of battery voltage
High Beam:
Batt 11.94, Across high beam filament (pins 2 & 3): 10.07
Volt drop: 15.7% of battery voltage!
Low Beam:
Batt: 12.31V, : Across low beam filament (pins 1 & 3): 12.11V
Volt Drop: 0.2 = 1.6% of Battery voltage
High Beam:
Batt: 12.24V, Across high beam filament (pins 2 & 3): 11.78V
Voltage drop: =0.46V = 3.75% of battery voltage
Batt: 12.31V, : Across low beam filament (pins 1 & 3): 12.11V
Volt Drop: 0.2 = 1.6% of Battery voltage
High Beam:
Batt: 12.24V, Across high beam filament (pins 2 & 3): 11.78V
Voltage drop: =0.46V = 3.75% of battery voltage
I have Hella E-code conversion housings and I really like them even with the cheapest 9003 bulb available. Way better than the sealed beams. Autopal is another brand that makes the same basic product. Never used them, but I've read good results. They are cheaper than Hella E-codes.
I recommend against HID's [[color=#00ff00]RAD: without proper projector lenses] because they just blind oncoming traffic and I'm not a douche.
Truck Lite makes a plug and play LED headlight. I'm not really a fan of the look of them. They are quite pricey so not very common. Seems like they put out good light but I don't know how well oncoming traffic likes them.
Halogens in Auto-Pal housing in the desert:
Truck-Lites in the desert:
More here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ptions-296666/
and Here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...review-265275/
Aug 4, 2017 | 02:38 PM
#5
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I should have possibly been a little more clear. I just want a direct replacement. I don't need to blind anyone, I just want a little more than the candlelight I have now. Not looking for a wire harness upgrade or anything like that. Thanks a ton for the info.
Dub
Dub
Aug 4, 2017 | 05:58 PM
#6
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 7,122
Likes: 680
but to some may break the bank
However, Arlindsay is right; they look odd especially with chrome trims. There are black parts in the housing that make the reflector look black. Does not look good with chrome trims. Like this...
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Aug 8, 2017 at 08:04 PM.
