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Alternator, how dirty is "too" dirty to repair?

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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 11:53 AM
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Alternator, how dirty is "too" dirty to repair?

Pulled the alt off of my 89 4runner (22re/5 speed) since it stopped charging. Well I figured to clean it up a bit since it was dripping from a power steering pump leak. I sprayed it full of brake cleaner, two cans worth, and there was still crap coming out of it. I've already ordered the brush kit to put in it since the ones that were in there are pretty darn worn out. My question is this, do you think the alt has been ruined by the PS fluid and should be replaced or do you think the cleaning I gave it and possibly a trip to the power washer will help bring it back to life with the install of new brushes?


Thanks folks.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:17 PM
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First off alternators are designed to take a certain amount of nature's abuse along with the occasional engine bay contaminants. ALL alternators are dirty inside after quite a few miles just from road grime . How did you determine it wasn't charging ? Dead battery, checked it with a meter, etc? Could be brushes or any of the other components inside. You should pull it down and check it out. If you got a ton of miles on it then you should rebuild instead of repair. Saves you money in the long run
Originally Posted by Junkers88
Pulled the alt off of my 89 4runner (22re/5 speed) since it stopped charging. Well I figured to clean it up a bit since it was dripping from a power steering pump leak. I sprayed it full of brake cleaner, two cans worth, and there was still crap coming out of it. I've already ordered the brush kit to put in it since the ones that were in there are pretty darn worn out. My question is this, do you think the alt has been ruined by the PS fluid and should be replaced or do you think the cleaning I gave it and possibly a trip to the power washer will help bring it back to life with the install of new brushes?


Thanks folks.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:21 PM
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Try using this stuff instead of brake cleaner. I have on an old alternator and it workd pretty darn well.

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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:29 PM
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Take a look at the internal regulator and see if it's badly corroded. You can buy a new one from Napa if its shot.

I don't know if p/s fluid would hurt it any. It might be better to clean it out with an electrical contact cleaner instead of brake cleaner though...


You don't want any residue on your electrical stuff....
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:31 PM
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too late BBP, I beat ya to the punch hahaha.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Sensei
First off alternators are designed to take a certain amount of nature's abuse along with the occasional engine bay contaminants. ALL alternators are dirty inside after quite a few miles just from road grime . How did you determine it wasn't charging ? Dead battery, checked it with a meter, etc? Could be brushes or any of the other components inside. You should pull it down and check it out. If you got a ton of miles on it then you should rebuild instead of repair. Saves you money in the long run
Batt/Brake light came on, charge gauge in the dash dropped a lot and I almost didn't make it back home. Battery is good. Pulled the brushes out of the alternator and the bottom one had no movement left and probably stopped making contact a while ago, the top one is likewise worn and had very little movement left in it.

Originally Posted by xxxtreme22r
Try using this stuff instead of brake cleaner. I have on an old alternator and it workd pretty darn well.

Thanks much! I'll snag some of that tomorrow and re-clean this thing.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:32 PM
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I would clean it with the case apart though if you haven't done so already.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:37 PM
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Indeed. Clean that thing.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:41 PM
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oil is not as conductive as water so you should be fine, it's not like you have much to lose other than time by just replacing brushes and then reinstall and see how well it works, if anything you will just have to remove and disassemble again.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:43 PM
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You could always clean it, put it back together and then take it in to get tested....
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:47 PM
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Yeah I could pull it apart and clean it and get it tested but I know the old brushes are shot, they look terrible. There is also some scoring on the "shaft?" that the brushes contact. Also had some little needle looking thing made of copper fall out of it when I removed the brushes and have no idea where it even goes.... New brushes here next week and I've never been with out my little presidential runner for that long.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:48 PM
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x2 AutoZone and Oreilly's will bench test for free, at least here in California. Bout the only thing free here...
Originally Posted by BigBluePile
You could always clean it, put it back together and then take it in to get tested....
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 01:42 PM
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water will only hurt electronics if it is not dried off. you can use a mild soap (dish soap) and water to clean the parts, and rinse with distilled water (cheap) to keep from leaving deposits of minerals (and thus avoiding corrosion). if you want to be super sure you get all the water off, stick the parts in the freezer. the dehumidifier will dry out all the little bits of water (but honestly, it's not needed if you dry it out well)
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by irab88
water will only hurt electronics if it is not dried off. you can use a mild soap (dish soap) and water to clean the parts, and rinse with distilled water (cheap) to keep from leaving deposits of minerals (and thus avoiding corrosion). if you want to be super sure you get all the water off, stick the parts in the freezer. the dehumidifier will dry out all the little bits of water (but honestly, it's not needed if you dry it out well)
Can I through it in the dish washer then rinse it with distilled water? Just wondering....
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Junkers88
Can I through it in the dish washer then rinse it with distilled water? Just wondering....
only if you don't set it on "heated dry", sure

there's a guy who builds small robots, about a 3" hexagon. they have little static dust collectors, and to clean them, he puts them in the dishwasher; top rack safe.
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Old May 2, 2011 | 09:46 AM
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It seems it was either too dirty or too worn out to survive. Ran it through the dish washer, pulled it apart and cleaned it with that stuff ya'll recommended and took it in to get tested along with the starter.

Starter did great! I'd pulled it apart and cleaned the contacts and plunger, etc.

The alternator filled the test machine with smoke..... needless to say I had to buy a new one.
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Old May 2, 2011 | 09:49 AM
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time for a gm swap? really easy, relatively inexpensive
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Old May 2, 2011 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by irab88
time for a gm swap? really easy, relatively inexpensive
I can look into it but I'm a tad leery about putting a non-Toyota part under the hood. I'm guessing the GM one puts out a tad more than the stock Toy?
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Old May 2, 2011 | 10:01 AM
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Early 90's MR2 Turbo alternators are rated at just over 100 amps . . . I think it was '92 or '93 maybe? But if you already bought an alternator, then disregard
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Old May 2, 2011 | 10:08 AM
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I did some looking and even though the GM swap looks like a great option I just can't afford the extra for a bracket right now.


Corax- If that MR2 alternator will bolt into my 22re equipped 89 4runner then that is something I could do. I can take back the stock alternator (still in the box on the counter) and trade it for the MR2 one. You have any further info on that swap floating around in that Toyota encyclopedia mounted to your shoulders?
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