Couple questions.. in all the write-ups i have read that you need the "HAYDEN THERMOSTATIC FAN CONTROLLER" is this required? I was going to wire it so that it is on its low setting as soon as the key is in the On position and then have it switched so that i can turn on the high speed setting when needed (wheeling, going up hill etc) can i by-pass the thermostatic fan controller and save the 40 bucks?

Second question. What is the wiring like inside the fan... Will it hurt it if I wire it so that when I flip the switch to activate the high-speed fan the low speed is also powered? Or do I need to get an ON/ON switch so that when the high speed is on the low speed wire is NOT getting power.

 

I'd recommend the fan controller that bamachem used...variable speed based on temperature...more money, but his has performed flawlessly since he installed it. He has a thread on YT about it all.

 

i was trying not to spend alot of money doing this..... to shell out over 100 bucks for a controler seem like alot


do you have any idea about the wireing... how does the high/low speed work.. is it 2 seprate circurits?

 

You don't want to screw up your cooling system by being cheap...engine go boom...you out big money...you walking everywhere.

I think they are two separate circuits to wire up IIRC. I am going to just spend the $$$ and get the controller...if SOMEONE will ever deliver my Taurus 2 speed fan this decade.

 

my only thought is that the controller isnt going to increase the power of the fan... wouldnt the controller only limit (or control) the amount of power to the fan, there for limiting the speed? so if i hard wire it, it would be the same thing as the fan controler being stuck on max / WOT the whole time... right?

 

shameless bump

 

Yeah, you could wire it like that. Obviously use relays for both the low and high settings and I would wire the two setting seperately just to be safe.

On the other hand, by having your fan running all the time I doubt you'll be saving any MPG. It might even be less efficient than the stock fan?

 

ya i was going to put a 30 amp for the low speed and a 40 amp for the high speed. you mean the draw on the alternator would be enough to kill any MPG gain from getting rid of the stock fan?

 

I have no proof, but that is my personal feeling.

I ran a 40 amp relay for the low and (2) 40 amp relays in parallel for a total of 80 amp capacity for the high.

 

what pins would that be to run them in parallel

 

I have yet to have a single problem with my $20.00 fan controler from Advance Autoparts
as far as the relays the 30 & the 87 pins are connected when the coil in the relay is energized doesn't matter which one goes to power as long as the other goes to the fan.

 

When you going to get this way dude?

 

I would wire a controller, there is no reason to have the fan spinning all the time, more power draw, shorter fan life. My dad has his elec fan on his big block burb setup to come on a few degrees above a wide open thermostat. There is plenty of cooling when moving anyhow, in fact at hwy speeds the fan moves less air than the vehicle speed... so you want the temp probe where it wont read the temp right out of the hose, it will cause it to cycle unnecesarily.

I also reccommend putting a switch on the A/C lead.. this way in winter when the fan isnt needed with the A/C, but the A/C still kicks on with the defrost you wont be cycling the fan unnecessarily.

IMO, get a good controller, you will be glad.

 

I have been running a taurus fan on low speed for the past 2 years now. I use a Hayden adjustable controller with built in relay I bought for $20.00

I have had no issues, my truck stays cool, and my a/c always blows cold. I paid $35.00 for this mod including fan (freebie), controller, connectors, shrink wrap, and mounting straps.

I added an aftermaket coolant temp guage to better monitor things.

 

I also thought the idea of going to an electric fan was to get rid of the stock fan spindle since thats another one of toyota's screw-ups.