When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
On my 95 4 Runner, my passenger window would not roll down. I began by replacing parts(not smart I know) in this order. Window motor, window switch on the passenger door, and then master window switch on the driver side. When I installed the window motor I had to reverse the two wires going to the motor in order to roll it up. When I reattached the correct wires together the window would roll down, but not up. This is still happening after replacing both switches on the both driver and passenger doors.
I figure now I have an issue with my wiring through the door jam itself on the passenger side. I do not want to mess with this and just put a homemade fix in. My idea is to put a polarity switch somewhere in the wiring on the passenger door harness to change the direction the power flows.
My question is how would I go about doing this if it is even possible?
like dropzone said, don't modify your wiring, fix the problem. most of the issues I have seen with the power windows are cause by broken wires in the door jam inside the flexible boot.
The passenger doors all get their power from the driver's front door (it has the child lock for the windows) and because it is generally the most used door the wires break often (especially in cold weather like here in Alaska).
Often you can wiggle the rubber boot or open/close the driver's door while trying the switch and you will find a sweet spot where it works.
the best fix for this is to remove the harness and lay it out on a work bench to make repair easier (I've done it in the vehicle before, gut DAMN is it a bitch!)
Don't cut any wires, unplug it at the kick panel area and from inside the door.
Make sure all of your repairs are soldered and heat-shrunk and it is best to make your repairs with new wire spliced about 3-4 inches on either side of the boot area (you may find you need to replace many of the wires due to cracked insulation.
I have seen many burnt shorted wires in the driver's door due to un-insulated wires touching each other in the door jam.
I got a brand new motor from RockAuto, I moved my rear switch to the front to see if it was the problem, i also used the front switch on the rear to make sure the switch was working(which is was). The master switch was used from YotaYard on eBay.
I dont really want to mess with the wiring in the door Jam, but if its easy to remove I might as well just do that and re-solder if that is the case. I dont have a DMM to measure the grounds. Is there anything I did wrong in my troubleshooting aka throwing parts at it?
I dont really want to mess with the wiring in the door Jam, but if its easy to remove I might as well just do that and re-solder if that is the case. I dont have a DMM to measure the grounds. Is there anything I did wrong in my troubleshooting aka throwing parts at it?
yes, you cost yourself a lot of money.
Since the driver's door has the master control for all of the windows as well as the window lock button all of the power and ground wires go through there before they go to the other doors. I'll bet you a beer that your problem is in the driver's door wiring harness.
Also, it isn't an easy fix. It's a pain in the butt to remove the harness but it is easier than trying to splice two ends together that don't overlap and are in the door jamb rubber boot.
You can verify this with an ohm-meter and a wiring diagram if you pull the kick panel and harness connectors there as well as the master control switch and connectors then check continuity (resistance) through one wire at a time. I prefer to pull the boot back far enough to see if the wires are cracked/broken.
Your are better off testing it than guessing.. The place side with the least resistance is closer to the short..
Yes he said drivers side and explained it sees more use and so is more likely to fatigue and short out.
Unless I missed something, I think it is much more likely that vince.stanton has a broken wire somewhere, leading to an open circuit, rather than a short.
Okay, on to testing. How do I go about that. I dont have a DMM, but I will buy one tomorrow at my favorite spot, Harbor Frieght
Now how would I go about testing the resistance in the pins? I have little to no experience with testing. I need to know what setting to put the DMM on and where to put the DMM leads.
I would prefer to pull the harness and inspect for breaks, but I will learn something new and use a DMM before attempting to pull the harness to confirm my issues. It could also be in the passenger jam for all we know. Better to save me time, because I already threw money at it.
Unless I missed something, I think it is much more likely that vince.stanton has a broken wire somewhere, leading to an open circuit, rather than a short.
you did miss it. It works in one direction and if he swaps the wires around at the motor it will run in the other direction.
The way these operate up vs down is by reversing the polarity. This is accomplished by the switches, you can see this in the wiring diagrams ect. Essentially it has a constant power wire and constant ground run thru the master switch and to the second switch and then the switch handles the polarity..
Okay, on to testing. How do I go about that. I dont have a DMM, but I will buy one tomorrow at my favorite spot, Harbor Frieght
Now how would I go about testing the resistance in the pins? I have little to no experience with testing. I need to know what setting to put the DMM on and where to put the DMM leads.
I would prefer to pull the harness and inspect for breaks, but I will learn something new and use a DMM before attempting to pull the harness to confirm my issues. It could also be in the passenger jam for all we know. Better to save me time, because I already threw money at it.
see my previous comment below.
Originally Posted by akwheeler
like dropzone said, don't modify your wiring, fix the problem. most of the issues I have seen with the power windows are cause by broken wires in the door jam inside the flexible boot.
The passenger doors all get their power from the driver's front door (it has the child lock for the windows) and because it is generally the most used door the wires break often (especially in cold weather like here in Alaska). Often you can wiggle the rubber boot or open/close the driver's door while trying the switch and you will find a sweet spot where it works.
the best fix for this is to remove the harness and lay it out on a work bench to make repair easier (I've done it in the vehicle before, gut DAMN is it a bitch!)
Don't cut any wires, unplug it at the kick panel area and from inside the door.
Make sure all of your repairs are soldered and heat-shrunk and it is best to make your repairs with new wire spliced about 3-4 inches on either side of the boot area (you may find you need to replace many of the wires due to cracked insulation.
I have seen many burnt shorted wires in the driver's door due to un-insulated wires touching each other in the door jam.
pull back the rubber boot in the door jamb, one end will pull back fairly easy (I think the side on the door but I don't remember). Peel off the tape on the wire bundle inside and inspect for cracked insulation on the wires and broken wires. They get brittle with age and more so in cold weather so when you open/close the door the flexing cracks the insulation and progresses to breaking the wire inside.
The other option is with a meter and a wiring diagram. I would suggest unplugging both ends and testing the continuity of each wire that runs through the door jamb. I am sure you would find the issue either way.
I also need to know your location so I can collect on that bet!
Yesterday I had some time to fiddle around with the truck. I was attempting to move the driver side door jam harness in any way possible to try get wires to connect. While doing this I was trying to move the passenger front window up and down via the master switch, and nothing happened. I then went over to the passenger side and I realized when the wires are connected + to +, - to -, the window will roll down IF I pull up on the passenger front switch. Normally you press down and it will go down. Now when I reversved the wires + to -, the window would roll up via pulling the switch up. I even tried wiggling around the boot in the passenger jam to get it to work but nothing happen.
Long story short, master switch has no control over passenger front window at all
Passenger front window only will roll up/down with the passenger switch in the up position.
I think its back to the testing with the DMM. Does anyone have any input with this new information?
Yesterday I had some time to fiddle around with the truck. I was attempting to move the driver side door jam harness in any way possible to try get wires to connect. While doing this I was trying to move the passenger front window up and down via the master switch, and nothing happened. I then went over to the passenger side and I realized when the wires are connected + to +, - to -, the window will roll down IF I pull up on the passenger front switch. Normally you press down and it will go down. Now when I reversved the wires + to -, the window would roll up via pulling the switch up. I even tried wiggling around the boot in the passenger jam to get it to work but nothing happen.
Long story short, master switch has no control over passenger front window at all
Passenger front window only will roll up/down with the passenger switch in the up position.
I think its back to the testing with the DMM. Does anyone have any input with this new information?
Originally Posted by akwheeler
yes, you cost yourself a lot of money.
Since the driver's door has the master control for all of the windows as well as the window lock button all of the power and ground wires go through there before they go to the other doors. I'll bet you a beer that your problem is in the driver's door wiring harness.
Also, it isn't an easy fix. It's a pain in the butt to remove the harness but it is easier than trying to splice two ends together that don't overlap and are in the door jamb rubber boot.
You can verify this with an ohm-meter and a wiring diagram if you pull the kick panel and harness connectors there as well as the master control switch and connectors then check continuity (resistance) through one wire at a time. I prefer to pull the boot back far enough to see if the wires are cracked/broken.
,try pulling back the boot in the driver's door jam
Are there any signs of heat damage on the bottom of the master switch?
To whom it concerns, I owe you a beer. Look at what I found after pulling the harness. It wasn't that hard at all! Y'all made me worried. 30 minutes later and she was out. Gonna get it all patched up and see if that fixes my problem. Its 5 wires total, I'm surprised nothing else was giving me issues. Right at the door Jam...
.
Last edited by vince.stanton; 03-26-2018 at 03:15 PM.
Make sure all of your repairs are soldered and heat-shrunk and it is best to make your repairs with new wire spliced about 3-4 inches on either side of the boot area (you may find you need to replace many of the wires due to cracked insulation.
I have seen many burnt shorted wires in the driver's door due to un-insulated wires touching each other in the door jam.
Don't use crimped connectors here!!!! Also don't make your repairs right in the same boot area. use new wire and splice one end where it will be inside the door and one where it will be inside the body.
I actually prefer whiskey, but I'll settle for a Corona!
Don't use crimped connectors here!!!! Also don't make your repairs right in the same boot area. use new wire and splice one end where it will be inside the door and one where it will be inside the body.
I actually prefer whiskey, but I'll settle for a Corona!
Hey whiskey works too! If you're up in the Seattle area hit me up!
Will update when this is all back in the truck.
That's a lot of broken wires!
Glad you figured it out.
Originally Posted by akwheeler
Don't use crimped connectors here!!!! ...I actually prefer whiskey...
+1 I do not like crimps, especially when exposed to corrosive stuff or the elements.
For this relatively low-power circuit, I recommend twisting wires together well, soldering well, then heat-shrinking.
ON power circuits like battery/alt connections I prefer parallel splice like this (never butt-splice), then fill voids with solder and heat-shrink/insulate.
Yes, Whiskey!
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 03-27-2018 at 02:42 PM.
03-13-2018, 10:18 PM
show us the repair when you get it fixed up?
