Northwestedition22re

Hey All,

Last night a friend left my headlights on which in turn killed battery. Did a jump start noticed no compnents had power except headlights.....troubleshooted and found the 80a alt fuse was blown. Replaced it this morning. Now when I go to start the truck the check engine light is not on.....Truck starts and dies after 4 seconds. I have spark, have air, jumped FP & B+ to make sure fuel pump is working.. it is...Im at a stand still here...hope someone may have had the same issue.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have seen where getting the jumper cables backwards will blow the 80 amp fuse. Is your AFM (airbox) cable hooked up or making good contact?

Northwestedition22re

Hey terry

Afm is brand new. The big thing is the check engine light does not come on whatsoever. I might be wrong but I think this truck needs that light on to start up. Ive checked all fuses and all grounds.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

With the key on, but engine not running, the light should be on. I would check the bulb first and that pretty much applies from 85 all the way up to my 01 runner. Did the cables get swapped when jumping? Just wondering if that somehow blew the bulb.

Northwestedition22re

Bulb is good. usually I have to turn my headlights on for check engine light to engage. reason being the red and white wire from efi relay had no power.....So I ran the wire that connects lh fuse to the head relay over to the red and white efi wire. which in turn made the check engine light come on and truck would start....


The electrical on my truck is dickered do you know where that red and white wire gets its power from? Ive been running it directly off the headlights for a while now with no issues...

now suddenly the check engine light is off and truck wont start.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I can look at it tomorrow and get some pics of it. I will need to see where that wire gets it power from. I have seen when the 80 amp gets blown, there is one or two fuses in the kick panel that gets blown. How are they?

If your wiring is really messed up. I would be tempted to just get one from a boneyard that hasnt been hacked. If it is the part I am thinking, it wouldnt be hard to change out.

The harness is in 2 or 3 pieces. If it is the one I am thinking it is, it unplugs from the fusebox and not to bad to run down to the ECU assembly. You wouldnt need to change the harness out of the cab.

Northwestedition22re

drivers side kick panels fuses are all good...checked them by eye also with a test light...Thanks again terry, finding out where the red white wire draws its power from will certainly help

Northwestedition22re

Do you think the Ecu is blown? Ive heard they rarely go bad a friend of mine got his rig stuck in mud last november he did not get it out until the spring at that point water was on par with his seats completley submerging ecu..and it started and ran..

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I personally have never had a bad ECU but that doesnt mean it couldnt go bad, it would be the least and last thing I would check. Never had to check an ECU, but with previous owners and their hack jobs, it is possible they hacked the wrong wire.

On post #664 list steps for seeing what is good Link>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...9/index27.html

Mostly intrested in this part.
Check all grounds........................................... .................................................. .........................Checked Grounds from above link.
Check wire harness ground on intake manifold.......................................... .......................................Checked Good
Check Solenoid Resistor. Haynes page 4-10 13.22b............................................ .............................Tested Good, supposed to have 2-3 Ohms, I have 3 Ohms.
Check EFI Main Relay Haynes page 4-9................................................. ........................................Tested Good Supposed to have 60-80, I have 71 Ohms.
Ohms for 86 Injectors are 1.5-3.0 all others are listed on Haynes page 4-2................................................. .....All tested 3 Ohms.
Run resistance checks on harness........................................... .................................................. ...Ran resistance test and passed, believe connections wont pass proper voltage.
#10 and #20 are apparently the ground pins on ECU. Hoping not have to go that far.

Northwestedition22re

thanks man! this should help. Im getting a ride to where im broken down in the morning and will start ruling things out.

your a god

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

No problem.. I will save this to my favorites and check in on it once in awhile. Get in a bind, PM me if I miss it. I am usually in the build up threads. I check the main page once in awhile. It was to cold to be outside today.

Northwestedition22re

same here -20

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I see your temperture is low. Something I just thought of. Temperture here has plummeted. Have you checked your Cold Start Injector and Timing Switch? Was it warm when the lights were left on and then cold when you went to jump start it, it was alot colder? You will probably start seeing more questions pop up on Yotatech about trucks not starting in this colder weather and most likely it will be the Injector or Timing Switch. Just a possibility.

toyota4x4907

I want to go back to the AFM..... I had a similar issue with my '88 4Runner when I bought it- would only run for 5 seconds or so. The AFM was not plugged in correctly, and so wasnt allowing the Circuit Opening Relay to keep the vehicle running.
Even though it won't start, have you tried pulling codes? I didnt notice if you said you have jumped Te1 and E1 terminals... I know, the light isnt illuminating, but have you tried those terminals yet?
Have you checked the wiring around the ECU for splits/frays/burns/disconnections?
As far as the cold start injector goes, I doubt its the issue. The CSI only fires while cranking the engine if the coolant temperature is below 60F (if I am not mistaken about the temp). It doesnt inject fuel once the engine catches.

So really, if you havent, try jumping the Te1 and E1 terminals to get the CEL to illuminate/pull codes.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Thanks toyota4x4907... I should of thought of jumping TE1 and E1 to see if there were codes and if light does work. Always nice to have a different angled look on a problem.

Here is the back of a fuse block. Dont know if this really helps. Other 2 pics I took didnt turn out well.


You never said what year your 22re is.
Copied. How to get Engine codes.
How to get Check Engine Codes. I just put this up for others. Applies to 87 and up. 86 and older is the bottom picture.


The Diagnostic port for the 85-86 is on the Drivers side inner fender and is nothing the same as the 87 and up. Here is T1 and E1 jumped. The codes and engine flashes are the same as the rest of the trucks on the dash.

Northwestedition22re

Hey guys,

Just spent all day dickering around with the truck. I think the main reason is the check engine light not being on with the key in on position. What is this controlled by? toyota4x4 it sounds like what you said..Is it possible my co relay is bad even though I hear a click before it starts? The truck will run for 4 -6 seconds then die..

Jumped te1 and e1 nothing.. no check engine light at all

Northwestedition22re

truck is a 92

toyota4x4907

Are you sure you had a good connection while jumping the terminals? What did you use to jump them? A paperclip works better than a length of copper wire, in my opinion.

Northwestedition22re

normal 11 guage wire... checked for voltage aswell..nothing.

I think it could be one of these things

maf
bad co relay but why would i hear clicking?
ecu

Northwestedition22re

oops 10