Trying to do wheel bearings this weekend on the front of my truck, and the off-road.com writeup (http://www.off-road.com/toyota/wheel_bearing.html) says the spindle nut is 2 1/8" or 54mm. Sears has a 2 1/8" socket for $23 or so, but it's 3/4" drive and I couldn't find a 1/2" to 3/4" drive adapter anywhere. There's no way I'm buying a 3/4" drive ratchet for this project, either. Vatozone only had up to 36mm in their 4x4 tools, and no rental places around here have anything like that for rental. Where the hell do you all get something to do that nut with?

Brian

 

harbor freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47529

 

I found a 1/2" drive 54mm on the pegs at a Schucks. I also have good luck witht he harder-to-find things at _privately_ owned Napa stores (i.e., not the corporate stores).

Looks like there're quite a few around Denver... it may be worth a drive-by.
http://www.napaautocare.com/locator/...0&searchtype=0

 

LOL both of you are right. My dad somehow knew that there's a Harbor Freight opening up about two minutes from my house, so we called and they were closing in ten minutes (grand opening is Feb 28), but I got up there in time. Got an adapter set, 3-piece, supposedly impact-rated, for $4. And it just so happens that there is a brand spanking new Napa store right next door, which I also didn't know about. So now all I need to do is get the socket at Sears and get after it.

Tomorrow.

Looks like homework for the rest of the day today.

Brian

 

Careful with those HF tools.. I wouldn't trust $1.33 to hold up when you start cranking on that hub nut.

 

If they were chrome I'd be with you, but they're supposedly impact rated. I figure a few "impacts" ought not break them too fast. Besides, how tight can a hub nut be? If it's too tight the wheel won't turn....

Brian

 

The 86's may be different, but on the 96's it's second in torque specs only to the crank bolt. The spec from my FSM says 174ft-lbs. Wild huh?

 

My Muir manual says 43 ft/lbs for initial tightening, and 18 ft/lbs for final, and Chilton's says 25 ft/lbs. '96 and '86 must be really different.

Here's another question: The little washer that has the tabs that bend over the locknut - can it be reused? I called the nearest Yota dealership this morning and it's a special order item, and the nearest ones are in Arizona and wouldn't be here until at least Wednesday. I haven't gotten into the hub yet, but it seems that one could just bend the tab out to take everything apart, and bend it back in to put it all back together. AND it seems to me that if it's a must-replace item, the dealership would freakin' have it in stock. Can I reuse?

Brian

 

I err on the side with your manuals, and that $1.33 adapter should be fine.


I think that the official recommendation is that you shouldn't ('cause you're weakening it each time you straighten the tabs) but I've reused them more times than I'd care to admit.

 

Outstanding.

BTW I just looked at the Muir manual again, and it says to use a thin-walled socket to fit inside the hub. Just how much clearance is in there, anyway? I'll probably be using a Craftsman 2 1/8" socket, which while it isn't thick, isn't paper thin either. Think it'll fit in there?

Brian

 

Some info for search purposes...
from another thread...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77666

 

Fabulous, thank you. I just went up to Sears (Southwest Plaza ) and bought the socket and some brass punches for driving races. Weather should be nice tomorrow.

Brian

 

For future reference, the socket worked perfectly. Definitely needed a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter, but the Harbor Freight one worked fine. Used brass punches for driving races in and out, packed bearings by hand, and tightened the hub nuts with the ginormous socket.

Couldn't replace the pads on the driver's side because I have a stuck caliper piston, but that's another story.

Brian

 

This is a very timely post. I was just at Sears looking for a 54mm socket and they don't carry metric that big. Glad to know 2-1/8" is the one!

(BTW - I got a 4 pc 1/2" drive accessory kit from Sears, includes u-joint, extension, and 1/2 to 3/4 adapter)

 

i know its not the proper way but you can also tap the nut loose with a flat screwdriver and a hammer. CAUTION: only light taps you dont want to do any damage or get metal shavings in the wheels bearings.

I had to do this to replace three lug studs in the passenger side front.

make sure to bend back the metal tab that prevents the nut from turning.(lol, could save some valuable time figuring out why the socket won't fit)