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So I pulled a junkyard motor so

Old Oct 28, 2019 | 11:48 PM
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So I pulled a junkyard motor (first time)

And rebuilt it. Now I just need to pull my old motor, but I want to know what the easiest way to got the motor out is? Should I pull the ECU cables through the firewall? Or should I just unbolt the intake? Is it easier to take old the timing cover then take off the head then pull the short block? What is the easiest and cleanest way to drop the motor back in? BTW it's a 22re
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 03:04 AM
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Easiest way is to pull the motor with the intake on, just pull the harness through the firewall. Then swap your intake, exhaust, and harness to the new motor and swap over. But that's just my opinion. In the end there's not much difference in the time and someone else might be able to do it faster by removing the intake.
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by arlindsay1992
Easiest way is to pull the motor with the intake on, just pull the harness through the firewall. Then swap your intake, exhaust, and harness to the new motor and swap over. But that's just my opinion. In the end there's not much difference in the time and someone else might be able to do it faster by removing the intake.
What about dropping the new one in?
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 06:24 AM
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Reverse of removal, as they say.

Doesn't matter too much but I would definitely suggest installing the lower intake manifold out of the truck. Lots of bolts are hard to get to when it's in the engine bay. Especially the heater pipe that connects to the bottom of the manifold and wraps around the head.
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 06:25 AM
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You might be over thinking it. Probably less than an hour difference in various methods.
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 07:46 AM
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Doing it as a single unit affords you easier access to some of the more difficult to reach items then while it's mounted in the vehicle.

You have to do the same part switching regardless of where it is so essentially it's the same list to work through. You can do it from a stool or bend over upside down and wedged between the frame and fender..
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Co_94_PU
Doing it as a single unit affords you easier access to some of the more difficult to reach items then while it's mounted in the vehicle.

You have to do the same part switching regardless of where it is so essentially it's the same list to work through. You can do it from a stool or bend over upside down and wedged between the frame and fender..
So there's no real advantage of doing it with the head off?
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 08:38 AM
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I see no reason to remove the head to swap entire engines.
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Monkeynts
So there's no real advantage of doing it with the head off?
It's a disadvantage in my view.

The engine pick points are on the head (the hook and hoop at the front and rear of the head are your crane attachments)

It would be an advantage I guess if you're in a low ceiling building and need the clearance, but then how do you get your engine back in. Surely you wouldn't assemble your surgically clean short block in an engine bay if you could help it. (If a low ceiling is your issue take the tires off and put it on shorter frame stands)

Here is an exercise you can try.. Find say the middle bolt on the head to lower intake, can you get a tool on this comfortably? How about the rear one? How about the rear plenum to lower intake bolts?

Now imagine the vehicle body isn't there!

You'll have to crawl in there (between the tire and fender) for the fuel filter attachment either way, but I'd prefer to do the rest of that seated on a stool.

Last edited by Co_94_PU; Oct 29, 2019 at 08:46 AM.
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