Hi, I am taking my Budbuilt skidplate and Stubbs HD-SKO sliders to the LineX shop in town next week to have them sprayed. They said it would be 8.50 to 9.50 a square foot and they would have to see them to actually give me an estimate. Has anyone else had items sprayed? How did you like the LineX? How much did you pay? And finally, anything I should know before I go there to have them done? Thanks everyone. David

 

Just get some DIY stuff for those... much cheaper. And the skids are gonna get scraped anyways....

 

You are wasting your money LineXing that stuff.

 

x3 - really?

NO paint is harder than rock. Hell, the metal isn't even that strong - there are serious gouges in mine.

 

I had the bed of my 04 tacoma LineX when new ...being a contractor my bed takes a beating from everyday use. Can remenber haulin 3/4" crushed blue stone shovel in shovel out on more than one occasion not a scratch in the bed to this day. At 9.50 a square its worth the coin. I think I paid 450 back in 04.

 

ohhh k, But that doesnt compare to metal, with the force of 4000+ pounds pushing that metal onto or over a rock. A bed is a totally different story. sliders, mayybe if your tax return is burning a hole in your pocket, skidplates..no sir

 

I can tell you from experience that the line-x will come off tube for sure!!! Just paint them, I had my bumpers rhino lined and I am regreting it now, the front was almost $400 and the back was $300. the back is holding up well, but I slid my bumper on a rock wall about a month ago and just tore the bed liner off!!!

It doesnt stick good to tube at all!!!

I will admit, it looks awesome though!!!

I wouldnt even think putting it on my sliders, as much use as those get, it will start comming off sooner!!! Plus texas mud likes to stick to rhino liner!!!

For a price, I would estimate about 200-300 per side, there is a lot of waste involved in doing tube, and they have to account for that, so you are paying for the line-x on the floor!!

 

Is this a Mall Crawler or a truck that actaully gets used?

I have a bud built because it offers protection and I use my sliders to pivot off rocks and trees and I scrape paint off each time.

X whatever on not wasting your money on the Line X. It will scrap off and than your wallet will be PO'ed. Get some Rustoleum Hammerlite. It works great and I can buy a ton of cans for the price of Line-X or Rhino Lining. Now putting Linex on your fenderflares or rocker panels is a wise investment....

 

get some spray on stuff from walmart or an autoparts store, i used that stuff in the back of my 4runner and it looks alot better than i expected

 

X3 on the "don't do it" at least if you plan to take the truck off-road and use the sliders and skids. I have also heard first hand that any sort of bed liner on the bottom surfaces of sliders is bad news. Problem is that stuff is tough and when you scrape over a rock, it is stronger than the bonding to the steel and will tear away in big strips. It is OK to use on the top surfaces or get some inexpensive DIY spray on product so at least you can touch it up yourself when it does tear off.

 

Thanks for the responses guys, I am reconsidering now. I really want to get use from my skid and sliders before I have to reapply the bedliner.


Do you guys think I should go with the Hammerite and do it myself?

Let me get this right.
Wash with simple green. Prime with Rustoleum primer, Paint with Hammerite.
Any tricks to painting with this?
Thanks

 

powdercoat is a waste too.

just get some denatured alcohol wipe them down and start spraying.

Everything else is a waste of money and time.

 

Powder coating is about as bad as bed liner, although for different reasons. Powder coating will get scratched and if you don't get that bare metal treated right away, rust will start to form and eventually work its way up under the powder coating and cause it to bubble up and flake away. A guy in my club is just in the process of stripping all the PC off his Jeep bumper because of that very problem so that he can repaint it (and this is in sunny rust-free California).

For paint, I have two suggestions. One is to use an inexpensive paint and plan on touching it up from time to time. More expensive paints like the Hammertite have very nice hard shiny finishes. But they tend to be brittle and chip readily if exposed to flying sand and gravel. First time I painted my sliders with a hammered finish Rustoleum paint, after one run down in the desert with maybe 30-40 miles of gravel road driving, all the bottom and front facing surfaces were sandblasted down to bare steel by the gravel and sand. Why cheap paint? It tends to not cure up as hard as the higher end paint. A softer finish is less likely to chip and for the price of a can of Hammertite you can probably buy a half case of cheap paint.

So the 2nd paint option is a high end paint like POR-15. It is a more flexible polyurethane paint and it'll stand up to several years of off road abue before it needs touching up. It has a further advantage in that if the recommended metal prep is done, there is a rust resistant coating on the steel surface beneath the paint that helps stop rusting in scratched/scraped areas.

 

Thanks again, I will look into the paint options and the POR-15 coating. I remember seeing some people use that now that you refreshed my memory. Any more info on your experience with these would be great.

So for further comments- I AM NOT USING LINEX - Yeah, thanks for helping not waste my money.

 

But when you use your sliders or your skids for what they are meant for por-15 won't stay on.

 

Some POR-15 tips:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...shtml#Painting

And check their web site:
- http://www.por-15.com/

And follow their instruction sheet steps to the "T".

And like I mentioned earlier, POR-15 will hold up pretty good. Yes, if you lay 4000 lb. on a steel slider tube as proceed to scrape that over a hunk of granite, the paint will scratch through to the steel.


Short of using a stainless steel slider you are going to have that problem with any finish. But the POR-15 will prevent the steel rusting up under the paint and only the scratch itself will be exposed to rust. A quick touch up 1-2 times a year to spot prime the scratches and the remaining 99% of the finish will be fine. Outside my first repaint, I generally touch mine up once a year (in the fall before the wet weather hits) and then have repainted the sliders once in about 8 years. They are getting due for another repaint in the next year or two.

 

Thanks for the POR-15 info, 4Crawler. I will research this well. Yours look good for the amount of use they get.

Thanks again and I am still open to any suggestions or comments.

 

I just use any old rattlecan stuff I have available and touch it up frequently ... honestly, I don't even sand it or anything - just wash it and spray it.

Being in NW Ohio, it's going to take pretty constant attention to keep the rust fairies at bay no matter what you use. I bought my rig when I lived in Cleveland ... POR15 has been a godsend on the undercarriage. One thing kind of funny about it though - it doesn't like to stick to bare, clean, shiny metal. I found wire wheeling off the loose stuff and leaving a little of the "rust" there was perfect and then that paint is TENACIOUS. If it's new metal, you really need to use the metal-prep stuff 4Crawler talks about.

 

Looks like I am headed towards using the POR-15. I am going to order the marine clean, metal ready, POR-15, and a topcoat. Which topcoat should I use? I assume the Hardnose is the toughest, but the new FlexCote looks interesting. What did you guys use or hear of people using as the topcoat? Thanks in advance, D

 

I usually use the Chassis Black top coat, but likely all of them are good. Depends on what you want the finish to look like and what color. The Hardnose paint is a 2-part mix as I recall, never have worked with it, though.