I am changing my add hubs to mile marker manuals. I was wondering if there is a specific way that the hub body must go on. It can fit two ways, but I wanted to know if it made a difference which way you put it on. Also, does the hub cover with the control go on any specific way. I know the Warns have a relief, but I dont see any particular way the MM hubs should go on. The cover fits on the body any way, but is that ok? Shouldn't there be something I need to line up with the spindle, the hub body, and the hub cover? Thanks for the help.

 

I finished installing it, and it seems that I either got lucky, or that it doesn't matter which way the cover goes on, as long as it fits. Checked both sides and they are engaging and disengaging properly. Disregard this post.

 

Did you ever fix the brakes?

 

When I pulled the wheel, the warning tabs on the brake pads were still a ways away from the rotor, and the pad still had some meat. The brakes also also stopped screeching, so I guess I can put that off for a while since I needed to drive my truck already. I will do it soon though and know exactly what to do now, thanks to yours as well as a few others good help and advice. I'll let you know how it goes, once I do get it done. I also checked out the rotor after you told me what to do, and your advice was right on the money with taking off that extra bolt to release the brake line wire. SHould go smoothly.

 

Okay, so I test drove my truck and it makes a clicking sound. I think I may have messed up my cv joint. It doesn't spin at low speeds, but starts spinning at higher speeds. Is my hubs on wrong? How do you line them up? Thanks in advance

 

Take it off and try reseating it on there, or the other way you mentioned, thats all I can think of.

 

actually its superwinch hubs if that makes a difference. Sorry, Im a little flustered

 

I understand, when I put my AISIN hubs on I ended up not getting them seated and did some damage to spindles and stuff. I dunno if there is much if any difference in the brands, other than looks.

 

Why wouldn't it spin at low speeds, but spin at around 15 mph? Is it possible at all that unlocked hubs could start to spin as a cause of a binking cv?

 

how do you know they are spinning at 15+?

 

i had my gfriend reverse the truck while i watched from the front

 

15+ in reverse?!?!?!?

 

Ok maybe not exactly 15, but when the truck goes faster than a slow roll, the cvs spin.So could it be I installed the hubs wrong, or is it possible for a broken cv to cause this?

 

I'm not familiar with the Superwinch - I have Warns. I don't see how a CV would affect it - it's either connected to the wheel and spins, or it's not.

First, jack the wheel off the ground, select 2HI on the transfer case. Unlock the hub and spin the wheel. Lock the hub and spin the wheel. Watch the CV - does it not turn, then turn when you lock the hub? Try both forward and reverse.

Your question above was about isntalling them two different ways - maybe take them apart and put back together the other way?

 

TC, when your hubs are unlocked and the wheel is up, does it spin freely, or is there resistance? My wheels spin really easy without the hub body on and an open shaft end, but when I slide the hub body on the end of the cv shaft, there is alot of resistance before I can spin the tire. Is this normal, or should it spin about the same with the hub body on or off? Thanks for the help again.

 

I haven't ever looked inside any other models other than my Warns, but I image they all work similarly. The splined end of the CV engages into an inner ring, which has course splines on the outside that engage and outer ring when they are engaged.

I could imagine there would be a slight friction with them unlocked, but nothing major. Mine spin pretty smoothly. Might try the superwinch website, see if they have anymore info.

I wonder if these problems are why I don't hear about many people running the Superwinch hubs...

 

That's how mine are. The hub body locks on to teh end of the cv, and when engaged, the cover pushes down the outer ring on the end of the cv. I called superwinch, and the guy said there is no particular way to install teh hubs so it may be ok. I saw a guy that installed these same hubs earlier and tried to PM him, but he hasnt respnded. Thanks for all your help. I'll see if it is my cv as I pulled it yesterday and will try and replace that. Maybe thats my probelm. Ill keep you updated

 

I looked on the box of my hubs today, and they claim that it is made for IFS 86-89. What's up with this. The website claims that it should fit 86-95, but aren't there two different types of suspensions in that range. When looking at the hubs, I noticed that the end of the cv shaft does not stick out of the hub body center hole, but is too short and is in it by about 1/4 of an inch. When putting on the spindle nut, the washer floats above the cv end and rests only on the hub body. Is this my problem? Do I have the wrong hubs, or do I need a spindle kit to compensate for the cv being too short?

 

There's another thread active about the same thing. He has some pix - compare to what yours look like.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/manual-hubs-wont-fit-4runner-help-83143/

 

I deinitely have ADD hubs bing that it is a 94 p/up and I took the locking flange off. My question is, is the end of the cv shaft supposed to protrude through the center hole of the hub body? Mine does not. The hub body is on flush, but the cv end is about a 1/4" inside the hub body. The spindle nut washer cannot touch the end of the cv shaft. Is it supposed to be like this?