AxleIke

Alrighty,

Replaced all three u joints, clearanced my CV for more travel, stripped, primed, and painted my driveshaft, and re installed.

Still have the same noise

Couple of things:

Drive shaft only lets out about 1.5"-2" of slip when at ride height. I thought this would be fine, but maybe I need to have it shortened?

Second, I greased the shaft before installing. I pumped up the slip part of the shaft with grease. When I went to put it back in, I found that I could not press the shaft fully together. So, I removed the grease zerk, and pushed the shaft together while squirting grease out. My question is, is that much of a seal normal, and okay? Should I have a hole somewhere that lets air in and out so it doesn't bind up like that?

tc

It is VERY easy to overgrease the splines - you don't fill it like normal. Just a couple pumps of grease and it's good.

Ron at Boulder said last time on mine for me not to grease it - he had already done it.

Are you sure the splines are lined up right and the shaft is still balanced?

TOYOTA 1

nah, as long as its not bottoming out it should be fine.


yes that much of a seal is normal, and no there is no hole.

though i have noticed that when it gets in a bind like that, it bleeds off after a few on it own.

im not sure but i think that seal unscrews off the slip yoke .


since its making a "whining noise" and changes with speed and throttle load, its probably the diff... might be getting a lil carried away but do you have a spare diff that you could swap in to narrow it down? just an idea..

ScottyC

iTrader: (1)

Issac, this is a very common problem that I have seen on some rigs who use the stock walled Driveshafts. CV or not. The stock shaft is too thin, and gets a high frequency vibe in what I call "no-man's-Land" when you have the gas between coast and drive.

Give me a call tomorrow, and I will give you a few things to try to isolate what you have going on. 970-420-4198

Scotty

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

stupid question but did you use a new master install kit when the gears were set up again (all bearings not just the incorrect ones)?

seems like it has to be the DS though...

AxleIke

Okay, good to know on the greasing. Glad that I got rid of all the extra grease (a lot came out when I pushed on it.)

That is my next step I think. Gotta find a spare, but someone around likely has a stock 4.10 I can throw in just to see.

Oh, and the seal does unscrew, which i did, and got the excess grease out.

Hmmmmmmm....This is interesting. I wonder if there was a mistake when building my CV shaft. I took two shafts to Ron here in Boulder (VERY reputable guy, does a LOT of toyota crawler stuff, and knows his business.) I took him my old shaft, which he'd retubed with .120 wall for me when I went duals, and a junk yard CV shaft. Its possible he just shortened the CV shaft by mistake, rather than cut off the cv and put it on to my old shaft. I'll give a ring to see if I can figure out what thickness I have without drilling it out.

I purchased all my pinon bearings, crush sleeve and nut, seal etc... from toyota, and both carrier bearings from Timken per ARB's part numbers. It was also set up the second time by a guy I trust very much, while I watched. It was done right, but, like I said, this is the second pattern on these gears.

tc

I think that the ID of the tubing is the same (the yoke has a slipfit inside) and the OD varies by the wall thickness. You should be able to measure the OD and see which has the thickwall tubing.

I'm with you, though, it would be unusual for Ron to make a mistake like that.

AxleIke

Alrighty.

So, tried out a suggestion from Scotty, to try to isolate the noise, but no luck. Dampened the driveshaft with duct tape, same noise as before.

Soooo....took a ride with a buddy of mine in Rising Sun this morning, who just got a set of chassis ears: Listened to the Tcase output, tranny up at next to the bell housing, both wheel bearings, and the diff.

Conclusion: LOTS of noise coming from the driver side wheel bearing, and slightly less from the passenger. Both are hella shot. The noise is quite audible through the diff and tcase, and the tcase output bearing is suspect. Also, my throw out bearing is making a lot of noise....LOL. Looks like 300k is the limit on rear axle bearings, output shaft bearings on the tcase, and I likely did not install my throw out bearing correctly.

Only wierd part is why the noise on the wheel bearings comes and goes???? Very strange. Regardless as to whether these are the direct cause of my noise or not, they are VERY loud and are making grinding noises when the other noise is not present. They'll get replaced.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Nice, at least now you have a direction to start in.

AxleIke

Sort of nice, unfortuately.

I've had directions before. All have ended up being the wrong direction. This is a good thing to do, but still...

Also, the noise doesn't make sense as a wheel bearing. The bearing should be howling all the time, at least in my experience.

We'll see. Going to order up the Marlin axle kit here shortly. Too bad I'm so short on cash, or I'd just go full floater.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

I like the the full floater too, but like you I'm short on cash for it.

ScottyC

iTrader: (1)

Did you try to adjust the pinion angle down a degree or two like we talked about?

AxleIke

Not yet Scotty. Its too damn cold! LOL. I'm working on it though. Thats my first step, just to double check. After what I listened to today, I'm not happy with the wheel bearings or tcase output. Even if that's not my noise, I'm happy to replace them for reliability's sake.

I'll continue to update. Thanks!

mastacox

If those bearings don't fix it, I'd bet money it's your R&P. My pinion bearing went bad about 18 months ago, and ended up screwing up the wear pattern on my R&P causing the rear diff to sing like a schoolgirl under light acceleration, but it made no noise while coasting (because you're using the coast side of the gear) or hard acceleration.

So, I got my diff rebuilt by Zuk, but kept the same R&P in hopes of saving some money and seeing if it would be able to wear into a new pattern. Here I am 18 months later and the rear diff still whines. Basically, from what I hear it's hit or miss (but mostly miss) if a R&P can wear into a new pattern since they end up work hardening under the heat and forces. Mine didn't stand a chance of wearing back in after 140,000 miles of hard work, so I'm going to have to pull the 3rd and replace the R&P.

AxleIke

Ah, that is good to know too! Thanks!

ScottyC

iTrader: (1)

Well, it ain't gonna get any warmer this week than its going to be today!

Saturday
Mostly Cloudy
31° F | 7° F

Sunday
Snow
13° F | -1° F

Monday
Chance of Snow
18° F | 2° F

Tuesday
Chance f Snow
15° F | -20° F

Wednesday
Partly Cloudy
17° F | -14° F

tc

It's gotta be 10F less than that in Isaac's garage!