On my year of tacoma, there is a slight gap without a bodylift. You don't want to read a little further into it than that, pathetic.

 

If i recall wabbit, i didn't ask for your advice or your input on what i want or need to do with my truck. I was merely stating a fact.

 

I made it myself and installed it by myself in under 3 hours and there was nothing tedious about it. It was spacers and bolts. Easy. WabFab

I was referring to some people's horrible labor description of a bodylift. Read into this thread more. A lot of people make it sound like a frame off restoration.

 

Squeaking associated with a body lift is typically due to one of two things. First, squeaking means that something is moving between the body and frame. You need to have motion to make sound and for motion to occur, there has to be insufficient clamping force on the body mount bolts. So check the tightness of the fasteners and that should take care of it:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ml#TorqueSpecs

Second cause (often tied in with the first cause) is using lift blocks made of a hard, brittle material, like extruded fiberglass. Harder materials do not compress and therefore if a bolt loosens just a tiny amount, the body mount is loose and can slip and slide and squeak. Furthermore, the brittle block material can wear away due to the friction and that makes is get looser still, and squeak more. A lift block made of a self-lubricating plastic like UHMW or similar material can really help here. First the material is slightly compliant meaning it compresses just a little as the bolts are tightened. If they loosen a little, the material expands and the joint remains tight. And even if there is motion, the self-lubricating material won't squeak and won't wear away like a harder, brittle material will:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...html#Materials

I pulled my 3" UHMW lift blocks out a few years ago (installed in 2000) and found no signs of wear (the tiny machining marks were still visible on the faces) and I have had no squeaking in all those years.

 

I'm anti-body lift.
Coming from the Jeep world I see tons of people running 3" BL and it looks horrid. Most time it's for tire clearance. Tire clearance? That's what the sawzall and BFH are for.

I might do a 1" on my Yota cause 1 or 2 of my mounts are worn out and finding some stuck replacements might be a bitch.

 

You posted your 2 cent and he posted his. Have some respect for the MUCH MORE knowledgable elders. If you want to continue to bicker about it, I think you came to the wrong site. TTORA and PIRATE would love to have you.

By the way, I LOOOVVEEE your euro tails and flame glow guages

 

who cares what it looks like. if you're worried about looks, you're the perfect candidate for a body lift and some rubber skirts to cover the gap.

a buddy of mine bought a YJ that was built to be a mall crawler. so it really didn't have enough lift for the tires to flex. so, options were, SOA, smaller tires, or body lift. yea, he did the body lift. they still rub, but he got a crapload of flex out of it, for less than $100.

it's even better on a yota, because it allows a drivetrain lift too!!


tacoma728.....relax. you gave your $.02, and we gave ours. that's how this works.

 

You don't need a 3" BL do do a flat skid on a Jeep.
1" BL and some cutting will do.

Anyhow, if I can find stock mounts for a good choice, I'll get them.

 

Well, my apologies, but I won't sway on the bodylift subject.

Thanks Kyle for your comments.

 

if you're talking about the rubber bushings...2 things

a body lift doesn't replace them, only adds to them, so if they're shot, you'll still need to get new ones
and www.4crawler.com has poly ones I believe. might be perfect for you.

 

It is the rubber bushing, thanks!

 

Your opinion is welcome. Everyone has differnet ones so naturally there is gonna be some conflict. Just don't insult the elders, they started this site and have kept it running as long as it has.

Im just messing with ya man. All in good fun.