best oil for high milage yotas?
#1
best oil for high milage yotas?
hey guys i couldnt find what i was looking for on here, so i decided to create a thread. so heres the question what oil do you use, why? and what mileage does your yota have, along with what engine? i have a 91' 4runner 4x4 with the 3.0 V6 and it has 163K miles, which oil do you recommend and why? keep in mind i live in florida. i just bought this truck and the current oil is not good also. please and thank you on thoughts.
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i have used royal purple 10w30 in the summer with a KN filter and it was great never had a problem with it till it got expensive. my truck was a 90 with the 3.slow 4x4 automatic and while running the royal pruple i added some to the front and rear diff and could also tell a differece with the driveability not really a power increase that i could tell but it ran and drove smoother to me. truck had 260,000+ miles
Last edited by fireman1559; 01-24-2010 at 06:23 PM.
#4
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i run 10w30 mobil1 synthetic 139 thous miles85 yota. but weaver if u dont mind was wondering what and when should we put in the diffs,trans,and transfer cases. just bought truck so i will have to change them all soon? so what do yall use???????
#5
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i have used royal purple 10w30 in the summer with a KN filter and it was great never had a problem with it till it got expensive. my truck was a 90 with the 3.slow 4x4 automatic and while running the royal pruple i added some to the front and rear diff and could also tell a differece with the driveability not really a power increase that i could tell but it ran and drove smoother to me. truck had 260,000+ miles
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with a truck as old as yours you could change the diff fluids as soon as you wanted. i love rp its great stuff and they had it on trucks on spike tv thats when i saw it and they saw temp drops in the front and rear diffs as well the oil pan. even thou it was on a dodge. and you can use whatever you want to change the fluid with its just a prefernce that i go with rp. i think you should change the diff and xcase fluids about every 75,000 miles if not a bit sooner. and if you dont have a long breather tube for the rear diff and you go muddin alot you might want to change the fluid alot more
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Oil
I've used Mobil 1 on every non-beater I've ever owned (BMW, MR2, 350Z, the T4R) and I feel that is lasts longer and I've noticed a decrease in valvetrain noise (on the MR2 and BMW) with Mobil 1. I think you'll find that any name-brand synthetic will allow you to extend your change intervals in such a way that they end up being cheaper anyway. IIRC, the 'high-mileage' oils include an additive that causes gaskets and seals to swell, so it's not necessary if nothing leaks.
That said, I recently moved back to the US and noticed that there are some store brand synthetics out there now in places like Meijer and Wal-Mart. Does anyone have any feedback on these? The Meijer 5w was <$15 a gallon!
I did a google search and all I got was, "Them r jenarics sinthetic oils and they probaly has a s***-ton of that perafin wax liek quaker stake and pinzoil."-style mouth breathing.
That said, I recently moved back to the US and noticed that there are some store brand synthetics out there now in places like Meijer and Wal-Mart. Does anyone have any feedback on these? The Meijer 5w was <$15 a gallon!
I did a google search and all I got was, "Them r jenarics sinthetic oils and they probaly has a s***-ton of that perafin wax liek quaker stake and pinzoil."-style mouth breathing.
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with a truck as old as yours you could change the diff fluids as soon as you wanted. i love rp its great stuff and they had it on trucks on spike tv thats when i saw it and they saw temp drops in the front and rear diffs as well the oil pan. even thou it was on a dodge. and you can use whatever you want to change the fluid with its just a prefernce that i go with rp. i think you should change the diff and xcase fluids about every 75,000 miles if not a bit sooner. and if you dont have a long breather tube for the rear diff and you go muddin alot you might want to change the fluid alot more
#9
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Store Brand Synthetics - I use the Walmart brand synthetic in my GEO metro with no troubles, keeps it pretty quiet on 0 degree start ups, much quieter than regular dino. I've also used the NAPA brand synthetic in the GEO and the Toy, both ran great on the NAPA oil too. Neither brand has caused any leaking to speak of. The GEO has 146,000 and the TOY has about 165,000 miles.
TO THE OP - considering your location and the number of miles on your truck, I'd suggest a 10W40 or 15W40, go synthetic if your lazy and want longer change intervals or go regular old dino if you dont mind shorter change intervals and since you don't have cold start worries. Many people have used diesel oil in their TOYOTAs with good success, either Shell Rottella or Chevron Delo 400, both would be fine.
TO THE OP - considering your location and the number of miles on your truck, I'd suggest a 10W40 or 15W40, go synthetic if your lazy and want longer change intervals or go regular old dino if you dont mind shorter change intervals and since you don't have cold start worries. Many people have used diesel oil in their TOYOTAs with good success, either Shell Rottella or Chevron Delo 400, both would be fine.
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why are you worried about it unless you just mudd hole bust and you get alot of mud and water in the diff. if you take care of your truck it should be fine i mean yea you could change it as often as you want and spend alot of money on buying more fluid but why. by this point your rear end gears should be past the break in point by now.
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With all due respect, "high mileage" doesn't mean a lot with our engines.
But anyhow, feel free to try a synth oil. If you develop a main seal leak (front or rear), switch back to dino and change the seal(s) as soon as you can. If they leak with synth, they're going to be going out soon.
Keeping the oil in the engine is every bit as important as having good oil to begin with.
But anyhow, feel free to try a synth oil. If you develop a main seal leak (front or rear), switch back to dino and change the seal(s) as soon as you can. If they leak with synth, they're going to be going out soon.
Keeping the oil in the engine is every bit as important as having good oil to begin with.
Last edited by abecedarian; 01-24-2010 at 11:55 PM.
#12
dont mind at all. very good questions that i wish i had thought of first.
#13
i would highly recommend not using mobile one. some royal or ams oil is good. if you really want to go all out there's redline oil. never ever mobile one. the other half is a good filter too
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I run Valvoline Synthetic. 10W30 in the winter, and 20W50 in the summer. We see summer temps above 110F for several months at a time, so 10W30 just doesn't offer the tempature protection I need in the summer. And for house brand oils such as the oil branded by Napa, they are made by the Ashland oil company which is Valvoline, but in all honesty your engine doesn't care what oil is in it as long as there is oil in it.
#18
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I run a Toyota oil filter and Rotella 15/40 oil. I have ran this setup in every Toyota that I've ever owned. Including non toyota vehicles. I have never had a engine to blow or even start knocking. I had a 84 Toyota that had well over 300,000 miles and I ran the same setup as well. The new owner still drives this truck however he runs a K&N filter with the same oil. All mine has had either a 22r or 22re engine.
#19
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I know the oil Nazi's will protest what Im gonna say....
Run cheap oil. Just change it more often. If you have a new to you yota
you dont know the history of...change it every 1000 till it comes out pretty clean.
Synthetic oil or all the additives are snake oil. Just replace the oil 3000 miles or less on a rigid schedule.
Fancy oil doesnt get you better mileage. Doesnt reduce wear. Doesnt get you laid. It just cost more.
It's all a load of crap to take money from your wallet.
Show me one case were someone used cheap oil and changed it every 3k
and it caused any issue whatsoever.
Toyotas cant taste the oil.
Run cheap oil. Just change it more often. If you have a new to you yota
you dont know the history of...change it every 1000 till it comes out pretty clean.
Synthetic oil or all the additives are snake oil. Just replace the oil 3000 miles or less on a rigid schedule.
Fancy oil doesnt get you better mileage. Doesnt reduce wear. Doesnt get you laid. It just cost more.
It's all a load of crap to take money from your wallet.
Show me one case were someone used cheap oil and changed it every 3k
and it caused any issue whatsoever.
Toyotas cant taste the oil.
#20
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I agree there ole buddy. I have know several good mechanics that will tell you that all oil is the same. They use whatever when ever. I don't so much agree with that but I'm no master mechanic either. I can tell ya that I do know that cheap oil will cause major sludge build up which will cause your oil drains to become clogged not allowing suffentiant oil travel through the engine.