How do you adjust the camber w/o adjusting the torsion bars? Cause My tb's are cranked ~2", but with new tires the camber looked decent, just a tiny bit off. Nothin to cause any dread over. Now about 50k into these tires, it looks like it's sitting much more / \ instead of | | ya know? So I'm just wondering how you go about pushin the bottom of the tires back in and the tops back out.

 

have an alignment done. they will get it all even, or you can adjust the eccentric bolts, but theres a pretty good chance you will not be able to get it even.

 

Well, I'm probably gonna be gettin new tires here in the next 5-10k miles or so, so i'd rather wait to get it professionally aligned until i get the new ones. Would rather just do what I can to fix it a little my self ya know?

 

You're going to find it pretty darn hard to eyeball 1* or so, don't you think





Fred

 

Pfft, I'm a professional floorman. I can spot a .25º curvature in a 2' section of tile

 

Plus it aint that hard with a speedsquare, level, and having the front end off the ground. Used to do it all the time with my old honda, but have no idea how to do it with this yota lol.

 

do you have a service manual? I believe you adjust it where the lower control arm meets the frame. However it will change when the car is off and on the ground as well as when it is moved. So its going to be a process of trial and error. Once you put the car back on the ground the weight will push the tires out however the bottom of the tires will hold the ground. So every time you adjust it you will have to move the car and then check with the level because as the car rolls the tire will go from \ / to l l.

 

Nope, no FSM (haynes, but I couldn't find anything in there). Yeah, it'll definitly be trial and error, but hey, thats how I go about most things lol.

 

Talking from do-it-yourself experience and as a mechainc, I would say your best bet is to just save yourself the headaches and take it to a garage with an alignment machine. It might cost you, but it'll only take them 30-45 minutes and it'll be dead on.

 

Well, the eccentrics are on the bottom, so your only option is to push the bottoms back in. If you move both evenly, it wont change caster, but I doubt you would be able to do that. So I assume you are too much negative, and looking for zero. If you put it on level ground, run a level across the rum, look for striaght up and down, this is zero. But anytime you change caster or camber, toe will need to be adjusted.

 

I need to know this as well. I was going to wait to ask, but since this thread is already here...

I'm replacing my steering completely with a custom set up. I'm also replacing my ball joints and the eccentric bolts and bushings. essentially, i'm taking the lower arms off, replacing the bushings, and putting them back on again.

I need to get the truck aligned enough to get out to the alignment shop, so how does one go about doing this. Do i just keep the ecentrics loose, and then try and level the tire? I'd like to see a step by step walk through on how to do this. I appreciate it, thanks.