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$10 Snorkel System

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Old 01-23-2004, 03:09 PM
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$10 Snorkel System

After my experience with hydro locking my engine and throwing a rod through the side of my engine, I decided it was time to install a snorkel. The problem is, I went to the Total Chaos long travel suspension, which requires you to replace the front fenders with wider fiberglass. Because of this width, the current snorkels on the market won't fit, besides I never was a fan of the way they look, so I needed an alternate design. After doing a bit of research and with the ideas of other yotatech members, I decided on a system that incorporated the deckplate modification that I had already done and a snorkel that vented into the passenger compartment. I was thinking of making one that would use the front hood scoop, but that would suck just as much water if a bow wake went over the top.

After going over to the local Home Depot I found just what I needed to do the job, 3" ABS pipe and 2 - 90 degree fittings. I first measured just where the new hole was gonna go. Upon inspection from the inside, the spot on the side was the most logical area for it. Then I took the 90 degree fittings and held them in place, to see how the connecting pipe will be routed. Took out my drill and made a pilot hole for my tin snips, then carefully cut out the opening, watching for any wiring.


Last edited by BruceTS; 06-02-2007 at 06:15 AM.
Old 01-23-2004, 03:09 PM
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I then cut 2 pieces of 3" pipe to make adaptors. The O.D. of the airbox is smaller than the O.D. of the 3" ABS pipe, but is larger than the I.D., so I used a die grinder to make it fit snug. This needs to be a tight fit, since I'm not planning on gluing it shut. Use silicone glued for other adaptor in the hole I cut out earlier, to hold it in place.


Last edited by BruceTS; 06-02-2007 at 06:15 AM.
Old 01-23-2004, 03:10 PM
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To make the bend in the 3" pipe I used a propane heater I had. By heating up the pipe it will bend easily, afterwards I measured and cut the pipe to fit. Once all the parts were test fitted, I took it all apart and started gluing all the pieces together.


Now you're wondering about noise level inside? It is much quieter than the K&N intake system, at Idle not even noticeable. Only during acceleration do you hear any noise, but if the radio was on, it would mask it all together.

Last edited by BruceTS; 06-02-2007 at 06:15 AM.
Old 01-23-2004, 03:22 PM
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That looks like nice work Bruce, especially with the tube bending

I'm not quite sure where you have the air going in though... any shots of that?
Old 01-23-2004, 03:25 PM
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bruce,

very ingenious. i used to use a little match to bend platic model pieces. i guess this is on a larger scale!

bob
Old 01-23-2004, 03:37 PM
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Originally posted by Tacoma Dude
That looks like nice work Bruce, especially with the tube bending

I'm not quite sure where you have the air going in though... any shots of that?

If you look at the first picture, you'll see the hole I cut out, that goes directly into the passenger compartment, right behind the fan motor. In the picture the fan motor housing is obstructing the opening, but in a good way, it baffles the intake noise.

Just as another note, for normal driving I'll leave out my deckplate plug, in which case you won't even notice the intake noise. Only when I go offroading I'll put the plug back in or on rainy days...
Old 01-23-2004, 03:49 PM
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do you get a slight smell in the cab???
Old 01-23-2004, 03:57 PM
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Only the glue smell.......

I'm waiting for the glue to dry before I go for a long test drive, but there shouldn't be anymore fumes than what comes in from the fresh air vents.


Here's a shot of the 3" ABS pipe after I ground out the I.D. to fit over the stock airbox inlet.

Last edited by BruceTS; 06-02-2007 at 06:15 AM.
Old 01-23-2004, 04:04 PM
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thats going to pull hotter air though..... feel free to correct me if I am wrong......
Old 01-23-2004, 04:17 PM
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Not if I turn on my AC

Actually under normal driving conditions the snorkel vent wouldn't be in use. but when I do put the deckplate plug in, it will suck the air from inside the cab, as for cooler air, it don't matter to me, as long as no water can enter the intake system, that's what matters...


If I had done this under $10 modification, I wouldn't have had a $2000+ repair bill
Old 01-23-2004, 04:28 PM
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Do you need to crack a window to get enough air flowing into the engine?
Old 01-23-2004, 04:39 PM
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Once I let the glue completely dry I'll check.... I guess it really depends on how well sealed my cab is. It might be an ear popping experience.......

When engaged I had planned on keeping the fresh air vent open.....


Update* because of the built-in vents there is no change in pressure in the cab.....

Last edited by BruceTS; 03-23-2007 at 04:12 PM.
Old 01-24-2004, 05:26 PM
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I like the mod! . I am thinking about doing this, you mention that the wider fenders help for fitting this pipe. It should fit with stock fenders right? I have already replaced the antenna with the whip so I shouldn't have problems with that.
Old 01-24-2004, 05:54 PM
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Wow, once again nice work Bruce. Now for us guys that like our rigs loud, I would want the intake to be at full bore in the cab. That would sound sweet (to me anyway).

I never knew you could bend pvc with a torch...
Old 01-24-2004, 06:02 PM
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If the pipe is too wide you could heat it and flatten it a little over the wheel well to make it fit.
Old 01-24-2004, 06:16 PM
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Good thinking Jim.
Old 01-25-2004, 06:58 AM
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this is a popular mod for 2nd gens.

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/cheaptricks/snorkel/
Old 01-25-2004, 07:36 AM
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Yea, that is one of the sites that I looked at, but the big difference is, if I had done it that way, I may have still wasted out my engine, since it's sucking inside the engine compartment. I wanted next to no possibility of ingesting water again, by venting to the passenger compartment , the only way would be if I flood the interior, by then all my electronics would be toast anyways and I'm not planning on entering water that deep.


The Initial road testing, there is added noise level, especially under heavy acceleration. With the deckplate plug in, there was no noticiable performance loss. With the plug out, I did feel the air comming into the cab, from the snorkel. I took a rag and plugged the hole from the airbox side and that cured the problem, plus the fact it eliminates the engine noise.

So for regular street driving, I'll keep the snorkel plugged and deckplate open, then when I go play offroad, I'll plug the airbox and uncork the snorkel. Just one more thing to do while I'm airing down....


cubuff4runner, you can take out the inner fender liner, then use one of the fittings to measure if there is enough space to tuck it all up inside of there. The elbow may need to be cut down to tuck it closer to the body, and/or making the opening through the body larger to accomadate the O.D.
Old 01-25-2004, 07:40 AM
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Originally posted by BruceTS

cubuff4runner, you can take out the inner fender liner, then use one of the fittings to measure if there is enough space to tuck it all up inside of there. The elbow may need to be cut down to tuck it closer to the body, and/or making the opening through the body larger to accomadate the O.D.
Actually, if you use the Taco piece that we use to put the Taco ARB snorkel on the 4Runner it would be no problem. It goes from a wide oval type tube in front to round in the rear where the space inside the fender gets wider. You could then continue PVC from that point because you are in the wider section...
Old 01-25-2004, 02:42 PM
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I ended up doing it today. When I took my fender off I had a piece much like the Taco piece you are talking about already there. I decided to use flexible corrugated plastic tube instead of PVC simply because of its flexibility. The 3" tube fit perfectly over the intake piece behind the fender. The intake piece has a flange on the end and the ridges in the tubing made it snap together fairly easily. I cut a hole in the same place Bruce did and then put a 90 deg. elbow in. I siliconed everything, including the stock pieces together. However, I don't have any pics it bagan to snow on me at the end so I was more interested in getting my vehicle back together so I can make it to work tommorrow.

Total cost

$3 - 90deg. elbow
$3 - 10ft of tubing (I only needed about 14")


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