Hello,

This is my first post here, but I've done my best to search for an answer and haven't found much. I've got a 1991 yota pickup with a 22re, and I'm due for a timing chain replacement. I pulled the valve cover to make sure, and the driver's side guide has split down the corner of the guide, so it's in two pieces, one of which is rattling against the cover (but still there, resting against the side of the cover, as far as I can see) and has allowed the chain to go slack. I am going to have it replaced in 5 days (soonest I can get it done).

My question is whether I can afford to drive it approximately 120 miles until I get it replaced (2 days of commuting back/forth to school). I have posted some pictures I took of the wear that the chain is causing on the side of the timing chain cover below. I'd estimate that the wear is less than 1mm. It looks like it's only got through the layer of (oil residue? paint? not sure what the black stuff is), and hasn't started to erode the cover all too much.

Am I taking too big a risk driving it that much? I've probably put around 300 miles on it already since I started hearing the rattling.

I greatly appreciate the help!

Pictures:








-Dan

 

Do you feel lucky??

If so keep driving the worse that can really happen is the chain eats into the Coolant passages .

The antifreeze mixes with oil which takes out the bottom end which could cause the engine to just seize at the worse possible place.

Comes down to a timing chain set or rebuilding the engine

Also a lot of other minor things that can do interesting things

Do you feel lucky??

 

x10!!!!change it!!

 

The best time to change it is BEFORE it eats thru your coolant passages and timing case...

 

Now another little interesting factoid it will be a toss up if it stops from the mechanical failure or the heat first .

So let us know just what happens.

it could be so bad the manifolds starter alternator minor things like that is all that is able to be reused.:jessica::jessica:

 

Ok! It will not be driven until it can be changed, except to drive it down to the garage!

I really appreciate the advice, and I'm sure glad I asked! I'm obviously quite new to thinking about engines, so this really helps.

So, given that amount of wear, should I also consider having the timing chain cover replaced?

Also, solely out of curiosity (I swear I'm not ballsy enough to take the risk and drive the car more, I'm just trying to understand this thing), does it have to eat through the driver's side timing chain guide first, then blow through to the coolant, or can it wear through the timing chain cover without going through the guide itself?

One more thing: along with the timing chain set, I'm also going to have the condition of the head gasket checked, and replace the water pump, but are there any other services anyone might recommend having done during a service like that?

Thanks again for the help!

-Dan

 

go to engnbldr.com,and call ted and hell guide you to what youll need. very nice guy and very good products and prices! if your gonna take it all apart,timing kit,oil pump,water pump,head gasket kit.youre timing cover doesn't look to bad from the pics, but youll get a good look at it once you get it apart.

 

Hey man, I just have my personal story.


Bought an 87 22rte truck

Drove it 180 miles as soon as I bought it to get it back home.

When I got home, I drove it another 2 days and maybe 20 or so miles. Checked the timing chain and the guides were gone, and the chain had just hit the coolant passage. Still no evidence on dipstick, but droplets were coming through.

I know for a fact the chain was grinding before I bought it. So the guides were gone, and it had already broke the guides off entirely, as well as stretch so that it could reach the timing cover.

Yours, I personally wouldn't be afraid of driving it if I had too, for a week or so.

No harm in playing safe but if you need it, i really doubt it'll let ya down

 

Get it fixed ASAP. The timing chain is pretty easy to do yourself. Take your time and don't be intimidated. Get the timing chain kit from engnbldr as cman1 suggests. You can do it without removing the head, instructions here: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

 

I just did the timing chain on my 86 last Friday, I ordered a kit from Mizumoauto in ebay because I was short on money and has gotten good reviews, also had steel backed guides. So far I have no problems with it. In my experience of doing the chain I had to lower the oil pan to get the cover back on because when I tried to put it on it wouldn't slide on and if I did try to force it in it was bending either the head gasket or oil pan gasket so the fastest/easiest solution was to loosen the oil pan fasteners but not completely off just enough to drop the pan about 1/2 an inch and all went okay than.

 

If there is ANY chance part of the guides could have broken off (now or in the past) it's best to drop the pan so no pieces interfere with the oil pump pickup. But if that's not the case, yes it's much easier to not drop the pan, particularly on an IFS truck.

 

I think 100k miles or with 120k miles (2nd 60k service) is a good timeframe to do it. Same time as you're doing all your other belts too. Also, LC Engineering sells the dual chain of the older but more reliable 22r and conversion components for the 22re. It's not too much more expensive than the usual single chain with steel guides...

 

I just put the dual chain kit in my 4runner a few months ago. The kit is awesome and so is the price considering everything you get. New oil and water pump, new timing cover, new chain and sprockets and all the gaskets. Only thing its missing is oil, antifreeze, and a tube of FIPG. Comes with all new bolts and metal guides as well.

 

can you feal any difference after putting the dual timing chain on as far as a decrease in power and or acceleration