fluco72

Hello all i am new to Yotatech and i just wanted to say i love it. This has been the greatest site for my truck i love this site and i visit it atleast twice everyday. Now that, that is done lets get to the thread. I have a 1989 toyota pickup V6 Xtra-Cab, currently it is running 31x10.5x15 Goodyear Wrangler Authority the only mod that has been done is a K&N air system. Everything else on the truck is stock its my DD and currently I am not a very skilled mech. but over the years i have picked up a few skills but they are very limited. I have a 4inch rough country lift kit to put on it but thats gonna be a little while i have to rip it off my old truck. but i basicly want to know what i can do to give her an overall tune up and squeeze out a little more power. I know eventually i want to but on the Rough country lift and then add a 3inch Body lift and a set of shackles. then i want to throw on a set of 35x12.5x15 mud terains and add a locker. i know to run tires this big i will have to regear but i dont know what to go with. most of my miles are going to be highway but i will use it as a weekend wheeler so it has to be plenty of offroad capable. And with the locker i dont know what to go with i know im going to try and stick with a lunchbox locker because i really dont have the skills or money for a selectable. Also i have read that with tires that big some lockers wond stand up. I know this stuff has been covered a million and one times but not really for my particular situation. Also any other help would be greatly admired. Thanks to all and i will try to do a buildup section and give props to all that deserve

benelli

I'm not sure at the point where you'll want to re-gear you might consider buying a small POS cheap car as a DD. You would save fuel and tires. I'm not educated enough to give you advice onto what set of gears you would like.

For performance, you could drop in an exhaust or you could replace the camshaft. Go with a performance muffler like flowmaster or magnaflow.

fluco72

well i know when i put on the RC lift i will put 33's on and i will probably regear then knowing that eventually i will jump up to the 35's i will go ahead and gear for the 35's then i might try and put the locker in then too just so i can kill two bird with one stone when i get the mech to open it up

fluco72

Im hopeing to spark a little more interest in the thread because i really need some help but i will probably go with 5.29 gears but what will this really do? Will it bring my truck back to stock power with 35's because i would really would like to get a little more power out. also i when on the highway i will be going about 80mph this wont affect anything will it. what will happen if i go with 4.88 or 5.71 gears what wold be best again please help i really dont know what to go with.

malteserunner

iTrader: (1)

Welcome to YT.

Your center of gravity and handling characteristics are going to be greatly affected with a 4" bracket lift and body lift combo. Okay for driving 55, but not so good at 80. Also, 35's even with 5.29's, at 80 mph on the freeway, your fuel economy will be no good. So, if that's really what you want to do, then I'd say you should be shopping for another daily driver first. Also, you'll be surprised how far you can go off road with 33's and a locker. My $0.02.

gotime242

Sounds like you are going a little overboard with the lift and tires if you plan to DD this thing on the highway. As mentioned....stock power, lockers, 33's/regear and a mild lift (2" suspension/1-2" bodylift) will go far.

JonnyBoy

You also never said whether it's a 5 speed or auto(I don't think I saw it anywhere). That can make a difference in your gearing choice.
If it's a 5 speed, the "correct" ratio is 5.29 for 35's, 4.88 for 33's.
By "correct" I mean the speedometer will be closest to the same as factory gears with stock size tires.
For an auto, most people that have them and modify them, 5.71 is correct for 35's, while 5.29's is correct for 33's.
I can't help you much on the lunchbox locker selection, I don't even know which one is in the front of my '83, but I can tell you a properly welded diff will give you no more wear than a lunchbox locker, and the guy who welded mine runs one in his crawler. He beats on it pretty hard, too.

I would also agree it's not a great idea to combine the bracket lift and the body lift, but I'm not a big fan of body lifts anyhow. I have been daily driving my '83 lately, and it's still good mannered on the street, if a little rough riding. With you staying with ifs, you should be fine with the lockers, gears, and tires...just don't expect 20 mpg.

drmix

If you just got some bj spacers and added a rear leaf you could run 33s with no rub at all. Plus if you added a rear locker you could just about anywhere you wanted.

For under $800 you can get bj spacers, extra leaf, new shocks and a locker and be set

xxxtreme22r

Ball Joint spacer, 33's, 4.56's (4.88's if it's an auto trans), maybe a locker, a selectable would probably be a must in snow conditions on a DD.

And lots of underbody armor. And sliders with a rear kickout if you really wanna wheel the thing. As they tend to save body panels.

No bracket lift or blocks. Nothing more than a 1" body lift IMO.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

Welcome to YT!

i would also forget about the bracket lift and the body lift. that extra height will kill your gas mileage in terms of wind resistance and won't do anything for your "more offroad capability" - that is unless you plan to do a drivetrain lift, then the BL would probably be ok. i think you said you already have a bracket lift sitting around, so i'd suggest you sell it and put it toward gears, lockers, and tires. if you have a 5spd, i'd go with 4.88s or 5.29s and maybe a rear lunchbox locker like a LockRite or Aussie. The 4.88s will be great for 33s (stock ratio w/5spd), but since you said you'll be doing lots of hwy driving, then when you go up to 35" tires, you'll get slightly better gas mileage due to less RPMs. I wouldn't get 4.56 gears especially if you're planning on upping tires in the future. then when you're ready for 35s cut your fenders, tub the firewall and wheel it until you've had enough with breaking your IFS parts w/35s, then SAS the beast and wheel it some more.

Don't forget the other "more offroad capable" items besides gears, lockers and tires...these would be items like: IFS truss/brace, Idler arm truss, other beefed up steering parts, BJ spacers, new shocks and steering dampener, rock sliders, beefy front skid plate, beefy low profile t-case crossmember, differential breather extensions, high clearance front and rear bumpers, a hi-lift jack, and most importantly - a good running engine and a friend in another rig so you can pull each other out when you guys get stuck. The list can go on and on, but these are some of the basics if you wanna wheel your junk and be able to drive home at the end of the day.

Good luck!

bobby_duce

well if your set on a body lift do bj spacers ,aal, 2" body lift get some 4.88 gears and 35's.

remember, "lift as much as you need but as little as possible." words to live by especially because this is your daily driver.

thurlo76

i have bj spacers and a 15 dollar coil spring rear lift "jeep coils between leafs and frame" swapped out my 4.10's for 4.56's off a parter truck and threw on some 33's and like they said its just high enough to look cool and run 33's but it also gets 20-25mpg

i did the coil spring lift cuz it was cheap, it stiffens the ride up just a little but not anymore than an aal would. its way cheaper and easier plus it acts as an overload if u ever hall anything heavy. just sayin that will put in the air just enough for 33s and some good flex shots

fluco72

ok well you guys are starting to make me rethink the 35's and bodylift i know i will atleast put the 4inch suspention in there and possibly do a zuk coil mod on the back and its a 5spd if i didnt mention it before thanks for all your help guys but i think i might just go with the lockrite as well i have done a little reaseach and it seems to be the locker of choice for DDs but anymore advice you guys might wanna throw my way please do this truck is mostly going to be a learning experience for me and i will probably get a tacoma or a tundra when i get back from basic training and keep that as my DD for the family

xxxtreme22r

If you are gonna do the 4" bracket lift up front, doing a zuk mod on the rear is pointless, your gonna need 4" springs in the back.

Garth schafluetzel

dont know if been mentioned or not but if DD id find 3rd member with factory elocker and gear the front to match as for other advice i would add skid plates like mentioned befor and i would stick to 33's im runner stock 95 4runner with 3.0 and an auto and federal m/t 31,s and i do good to get 18 mpg behind a big rig going down hill. everything realy depends on what kind of trails do you ride? im a new poster long time lurker of this forum and im finally getting pics with new camra will be updating profile soon. so all in all im going with a previouse statment 33's and as little lift as possible 2 inch front and rear cut fenders e locker (factory swap) skids, and winch and start having fun

bobby_duce

if you have the time and skill move your brakets back and get some 63" chevies to help level it out plus you get good flex with them!

fluco72

Ok I'm a little. Slow but what do you guys mean by a bracket lift just wondering

xxxtreme22r

bracket lift: http://www.roughcountry.com/toyota_4wd_86-96_5.html Lots of brands out thee this isn't the only one.



This is the only way your gonna get 4" out of the front IFS suspension. These kits usually come with a 4" block to lift the rear. Blocks are not a good thing to use. Unless you go Solid axle swap or Longtravel.

87hillbillyoter's truck. His front flexes like that because he doesn't have the bumpstop extension brackets on.

fluco72

ok that makes a little more sense now and about the blocks i plan on putting a add-a-leaf and a shackle lift instead of the block and with the zuk mod i wanna do in the rear i figure that will be enough i mainly want the zuk mod as an overload

xxxtreme22r

your not gonna get 4" out of the rear suspension with an add-a-leaf and a ZUK coil. And in order for you to get 2" out of a shackle your gonna need a 7+" shackle. Not even sure they make shackles that long. That's gonna throw your pinion angle way off for one, and not too sure what the side effects of that are on a worn out factory spring. Let alone what your shackle angle will be using a shackle that long.

By the time you pay for the ZUK coils, longer shackles, shims to bring your pinion angle back in spec and the add-a-leaf, you could have just bought a new set of 4" springs.