Use Toyota FIPG black on your oil pan
Jul 19, 2010 | 09:28 PM
#1
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Use Toyota FIPG black on your oil pan
Ok I searched and apparently im the only person this has ever happened to. I finally finished my rebuild, no scratch that, I finally finished my "re-assembly" since I did not rebuild the motor (stupid me). We started it up tonight and about a quart of oil is on the driveway within minutes. The pan gasket is leaking. Alot. I have never been so pissed off in my entire life.
My question to the yota gods is, this guy used a cork gasket and grey FIPG, is this ok?
It appears to have just blown all the FIPG out the seams. The bolts were also able to be tightened with barely any force I should have checked them.
My question to the yota gods is, this guy used a cork gasket and grey FIPG, is this ok?
It appears to have just blown all the FIPG out the seams. The bolts were also able to be tightened with barely any force I should have checked them.
Jul 20, 2010 | 11:00 AM
#5
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Can anyone tell me if this is possible to remove with little effort? the truck has a 4" lift so I would think the pan would come out easy.
Jul 20, 2010 | 11:13 AM
#6
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
9ft-lbs is also 108 inch-lbs, your 1/4" torque wrench should go that high.
My oil pan is also leaking. Started very shortly after my rebuild as well. Used gasket that came with EB's rebuild kit along with black RTV.
FIPG is available from the toyota dealership and is their version of RTV.
My oil pan is also leaking. Started very shortly after my rebuild as well. Used gasket that came with EB's rebuild kit along with black RTV.
FIPG is available from the toyota dealership and is their version of RTV.
Jul 20, 2010 | 11:21 AM
#7
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From: Vian, OK
guess ya'll never got the memo on oil pan gaskets/sealants.
you should only use ONE OR THE OTHER..NEVER BOTH (on Toyota's)
i suggest using JUST the FIPG next time guys.
i've always been told not to use the cork gasket period...something to do with the toyota oil pan not being flat.
you should only use ONE OR THE OTHER..NEVER BOTH (on Toyota's)
i suggest using JUST the FIPG next time guys.
i've always been told not to use the cork gasket period...something to do with the toyota oil pan not being flat.
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Jul 20, 2010 | 11:22 AM
#8
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From: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
Make sure to tighten your pan evenly too by going back and forth like you would a wheel. Don't just start on one side and go in a circle or you'll smash half your gasket. Also like Wabbit said DONT overtighten them.
Jul 20, 2010 | 11:47 AM
#10
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
yes, it's possible, probably even easier with a bracket lift on. May have to remove steering stabilizer though. Also may or may not have to drop the diff simply by unbolting the three bolts from the frame. With 4" lift you might not have to do this, especially if you have a diff drop spacer.
Jul 20, 2010 | 11:48 AM
#11
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From: Vian, OK
i took mine off and put mine back on...on my '92 4runner with 4" lift.
i had to drop the steering unbolt the steering from the pitman arm, and from the....the...part where it connects to close to the wheel...sorry i kinda had a brain fart.
i had to drop the steering unbolt the steering from the pitman arm, and from the....the...part where it connects to close to the wheel...sorry i kinda had a brain fart.
Jul 20, 2010 | 11:56 AM
#12
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From: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
For a 4" lift....
Check out pages 5-6 on my post here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...78/index5.html
Use FIPG (Form In Place Gasket) after THOROUGHLY cleaning the pan and bottom of block. Clean your bolts too - wire brush, etc - get them spotless. I used brake cleaner and carb cleaner to get my surfaces clean.
I had to remove the oil pickup (4 bolts) tube, lay it in the pan, get the pan in position, then mount the tube to the block, and THEN mount the pan on the block.
I dabbed each bolt in FIPG before I installed them all finger tight.
Then, working in a star pattern, like a wheel install, I torqued them all to 9 lb/ft each. I let it sit overnight before filling with oil.
Seems to not leak now, though my front steering stabilizer seems to drip when parked....
Make sure you follow FSM guide for where to bead the FIPG...and WORK QUICKLY - the stuff dries in about 20 minutes! I did a few "Dry runs" before I used FIPG, to get it down.
Good luck!
Check out pages 5-6 on my post here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...78/index5.html
Use FIPG (Form In Place Gasket) after THOROUGHLY cleaning the pan and bottom of block. Clean your bolts too - wire brush, etc - get them spotless. I used brake cleaner and carb cleaner to get my surfaces clean.
I had to remove the oil pickup (4 bolts) tube, lay it in the pan, get the pan in position, then mount the tube to the block, and THEN mount the pan on the block.
I dabbed each bolt in FIPG before I installed them all finger tight.
Then, working in a star pattern, like a wheel install, I torqued them all to 9 lb/ft each. I let it sit overnight before filling with oil.
Seems to not leak now, though my front steering stabilizer seems to drip when parked....
Make sure you follow FSM guide for where to bead the FIPG...and WORK QUICKLY - the stuff dries in about 20 minutes! I did a few "Dry runs" before I used FIPG, to get it down.
Good luck!
Jul 20, 2010 | 12:51 PM
#13
I knew I had dug this up before and had to look around to find it again. This explains some of the confusion about cork gasket vs FIPG. Hope this helps someone.
The OP's comment
What I found after poking around
The OP's comment
Different RTV compositions have different properties...
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ket_makers.htm
...though if you read through them, you will find many are very similar. It looks like I have accumulated red, blue, black, and gray over the recent year or 2. I remember using the red on the cylinder head gasket at the 2 spots indicated in the FSM where the cylinder head/timing cover/block all meet up. It worked fine. I also used it on my rear diff after I put in the lockright and it eventually leaked. However that may have been on me as I also used the Toyota paper gasket in addition to the RTV and have since read it's better to do one or the other, not both. It is now in there with Ultra grey that came with my TG stud kit. So far so good, but it hasn't been in very long yet. The black and the blue are unopened and I'm not even sure how/why I came to own them.
I wondered about the gasket thing too and finally poked around a bit to learn more. What I found:
I have a 1984 FSM here at home as well as a Haynes '79-'92. My '84 shows the exploded views of the engine with a gasket for the oil pan and specifies applying "sealer" (no part number) between the gasket and engine at the four corners more or less. (there is a picture) It also does not list the torque spec if ft-pd but the other measurements given all appear about half the torque listed in the newer manuals. This is confirmed in the Haynes that lists 4.5 ft-pd for '79-'84 and 9 ft-pd for '85 and newer.
The '85 and '93 manual show no oil pan gasket and specify "No. 102 seal packing" (Part No. 08826-00080) to be applied in a 5mm bead on the oil pan and on the engine in the four corners. (at the joints between the block/chain cover in front and block/oil seal retainer in the rear) All this sealant is to be applied in 5 min or less or you have to start over. The only other difference I saw was the pre '85 manual indicates the pan has 3 studs/nuts and 15 bolts while the '85 and newer have 2 studs/nuts and 16 bolts.
The '85 manual (a PITA to use as you have to scroll through the entire manual)
http://www.functionalfab.com/resourc...%204runner.pdf
The '93 manual
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ket_makers.htm
...though if you read through them, you will find many are very similar. It looks like I have accumulated red, blue, black, and gray over the recent year or 2. I remember using the red on the cylinder head gasket at the 2 spots indicated in the FSM where the cylinder head/timing cover/block all meet up. It worked fine. I also used it on my rear diff after I put in the lockright and it eventually leaked. However that may have been on me as I also used the Toyota paper gasket in addition to the RTV and have since read it's better to do one or the other, not both. It is now in there with Ultra grey that came with my TG stud kit. So far so good, but it hasn't been in very long yet. The black and the blue are unopened and I'm not even sure how/why I came to own them.
I wondered about the gasket thing too and finally poked around a bit to learn more. What I found:
I have a 1984 FSM here at home as well as a Haynes '79-'92. My '84 shows the exploded views of the engine with a gasket for the oil pan and specifies applying "sealer" (no part number) between the gasket and engine at the four corners more or less. (there is a picture) It also does not list the torque spec if ft-pd but the other measurements given all appear about half the torque listed in the newer manuals. This is confirmed in the Haynes that lists 4.5 ft-pd for '79-'84 and 9 ft-pd for '85 and newer.
The '85 and '93 manual show no oil pan gasket and specify "No. 102 seal packing" (Part No. 08826-00080) to be applied in a 5mm bead on the oil pan and on the engine in the four corners. (at the joints between the block/chain cover in front and block/oil seal retainer in the rear) All this sealant is to be applied in 5 min or less or you have to start over. The only other difference I saw was the pre '85 manual indicates the pan has 3 studs/nuts and 15 bolts while the '85 and newer have 2 studs/nuts and 16 bolts.
The '85 manual (a PITA to use as you have to scroll through the entire manual)
http://www.functionalfab.com/resourc...%204runner.pdf
The '93 manual
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
Jul 20, 2010 | 01:14 PM
#14
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From: Lake Arrowhead, CA
I've used Permatex "the right stuff" on an '88 22RE oil pan and on my '97 4runner's tranny pan and it worked perfectly for both. It's about 1/2 the price of Toyota FIPG and it cures in minutes so no need to wait over night to fill it back up with oil. Throughout the years cork gaskets have failed me a few times and caused me to have to do the job all over again so I don't use them anymore.
Jul 20, 2010 | 08:14 PM
#16
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Well, some good new and bad news. No never mind just bad news. Still leaking from the pan after sinching down a bit, noticed another leak today to. Drumroll please... So I called the guy today who did the longblock and asked him, "Hey just curious, but did the oil pump you bought come with a front main seal or something? because I was digging around in the box-o-parts you gave me back and found one." his response was There is oil pouring out of the crank seal. My driveway looks like the gulf, sorry bad joke. I hate my life lol. He is fixing the damn thing not me, trailering it over there tomorrow.
There is oil pouring out of the crank seal. My driveway looks like the gulf, sorry bad joke. I hate my life lol. He is fixing the damn thing not me, trailering it over there tomorrow.
Jul 20, 2010 | 09:12 PM
#17
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From: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
Depends. when you get the timing cover gasket set from FelPro, it's the timing cover gasket, the water pump gasket, oil pump ring, and oil seal (the thing you're talking about). However, a lot of kits/oil pumps come with that seal already installed (mine from ENGNBLDR did).
But hey, if he didn't install it, I'm not sure how any oil stayed in there for any amount of time....keep us posted!
But hey, if he didn't install it, I'm not sure how any oil stayed in there for any amount of time....keep us posted!
Jul 21, 2010 | 07:31 AM
#18
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Thanks for the help Phil, your right it would be a larger volume of oil if the seal was just gone. Sounds like you know what your talking about so let me ask, is there any other spot the front of the motor below the heads on the oil pump that oil could be escaping?
Jul 21, 2010 | 08:15 AM
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From: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
It could be many things....a bad gasket (just a rubber thing that presses between the pump and timing cover really), bad bolts not torqued to spec, or a bad seal (the one you thought was missing).
I'd get a kit at your local parts store (seal, oil pump gasket), and watch the guy do the job. Take tons of photos to show us what's going on. The seal on the pan could also be bad up front - you really do need to torque in a "star" pattern and not clockwise or counterclockwise - you can warp the pan.
I'd get a kit at your local parts store (seal, oil pump gasket), and watch the guy do the job. Take tons of photos to show us what's going on. The seal on the pan could also be bad up front - you really do need to torque in a "star" pattern and not clockwise or counterclockwise - you can warp the pan.
