Hello everyone. I apologize if this isn't the correct thread but I figured its the most relevant location for it.

My issue: keep buying parts to go faster but not going faster. I have spent countless hours, pints of blood and sweat to get this green slut where it is today and it seems like no matter what I do, im stuck at this wall.
i wanna go faster. i have to go faster. im SUPPOSE to go faster. but thats not the case.
basically, i need help tuning it. ive tried every combo known to man and even got LCE scratching their heads. (they not much help to me at this point) for the amount of money ive put into this POS i should be whipping the doors of my competition.

My rig : 1994 Toyota pickup 2wd. 22RE. W55.
Application: drag racing

Mods:
-built cyl head: ported and polished, full LCE valve train upgrade (oversize valves, dual spring, chromoly ret., shortened guides) close to a LCE Stg5
-LCE dual timing chain conversion kit, with pro oil pump. using 20w-50 Castrol oil
-LCE dual row adjustable cam gear
-LCE 6in oversize water pump pulley
--cams-- there are several that i have tried.
a) Crower 280 -not so good for my application, too small of a cam in my opinion.
b) Delta regrind 292- a buddy use to run this cam and would kick my a$$ with less mods. tried it, had some gains. still slower than he tho.
c) LCE Stage 3 295 *CURRENT*- ok. so i did some research, idk if they changed just the specs or actually redesigned the cam. but the current specs on LCE website have changed to smaller (to a 280) WTF?!
if this is the case, i had suspected it all along when i tried to dial in the cam (using degree wheel and dial ind.gauge) and nothing made sense. Not cool LCE!!
-intake/battery swap, shorty intake tube (silicone) HKS-type mushroom filter
-LCE throttle body spacer
-larger VAFM housing (swapped internal 22re meter) with bypass screw adjustable
-A/F tuner (ECT potenteometer mod)
-hi flow fuel pump w adjustable regulator , set at 50psi. reconditioned OEM fuel injectors for flow and equalization
-ported and gasket matched intake, the whole intake manifold
-vacuum lines/VSV, EGR delete
-Innovate Wideband o2 gauge/datalogger
-LCE race header (wrapped) to a 3in exhaust (no cat) axle dump
-MSD 6al-2 (2-stage rev limiter) with blaster 2 coil using stock igniter. 8.5mm LCE Magnacore wires, "colder" spark plugs. new cap + rotor.
-LCE Pro clutch
-LCE 9lb flywheel
-4.56 gears, welded
-26in Mickey Thompson ET drag radials
-3in rear tapered lowering blocks (cast iron)
-Weld Pro Star wheels
-lowered front torsion bars with bj flip.
-Jegs line lock/stage control
-running 91 octane

This green pig is race ready and wants to go faster! I can feel it holding back but idk what to do/tune. I've been battling this issue for the past year and a half.

** CURRENT SETTINGS **
1/4mi times: Best: 16.22 @ 82mph. Launch @ 5000rpm.
-runs at 14.9-15.2 a/f ratio. will drop to approx 12's at WOT (i assume this is default setting for ecu, cannot change)
-idle @ approx 1050 rpm
-cam 2deg advance
-ign 10deg advance

have tried all cam timing settings from 3deg retard to 4deg adv. tried ign timing from 3-12 deg adv. a/f ratios from super rich (11-12) to slight lean (15-17) all measured at idle. its hard to measure a gain of 0.2-0.5 tenths of a second using butt-dyno

idk what else to say. im prob leaving something out just cuz im still trying to wrack my brain on what to do next. i understand that a carb vehicle and EFI are 2 completely different creatures. carb likes retard. efi likes advance. but to go more advance on efi set-up will mean i will lose top end -which is where i want my power to be. where i need it to be.

PLEASE, if u have any input, stories, ideas, special duct tape, a doughnut, feel free to chime in.
if u tell me ive wasted my time and money, i know this. if u tell me it cannot go faster, not true. ive seen faster. i have time slips to prove it. i dont wanna hear, get a stand-alone, bigger piston, different head, go carb, ect. Need to be faster with current set-up. invested too much time and money for it to be this Freaking slow

 

I always thought the 22re was a gutless wonder but I know a guy that just installed an Engbldr rv cam and head with a LCE header and what a difference it made. His 22re runner will move quick!!! and it was just a stock motor.

I helped install a motor for a guy that bought the motor from one of the dealers that sell performance 22re's and I was shocked at how weak it was. I don't remember which place he bought his motor from, but if I had spent the kind of money he spent, I would of been ticked.

 

That's what I'm saying. For the amount of money and mods, this thing should scream and kill anything u put next to it.

 

Have you checked the compression numbers ??

Maybe you have rings or valves that are leaking??

Who did your injectors they could be the problem ??

perhaps a new set of injectors from Toyota.

Myself I have never had great faith in LCE products to each there own.

 

Block and compression are solid. No valve train issue, all new stuff. Injectors done by a reputable shop that was recommended by a friend. Been good for the past 2years.

 

Exactly,

All those go fast goodies and not a word about the bottom end...
How many miles on the bottom end?

Test the core first-

What were the compression numbers on all four cylinders?

Has a leak down test been performed and did it reveal anything?

You could throw all the money and performance parts at it in the world and it might not go much faster if a great deal of the compression is leaking past the rings or valves. There have also been many cases of new heads having valve sealing problems because of machining errors. Even the best companies make mistakes.

.

 

As previously stated, bottom end and valve train are good. Compression is at 175equally. Maybe +- 3psi. Leak down is 0. Head is bulletproof.
The bottom end may have +200K miles but it's solid. I made sure to check.

 

Just from what i read id say you may have too big exhaust not enough back pressure.

Id also say you're trying to get blood from a stone.

But my first question is are you using a dyno? Or only your 0-60 times as a gauge of performance? What's your hp? What do you think you're going to get? What haven't you done that's included in those high power LCE stage 5 engines?

What makes you think you can get any more out of what you have? Because others supposedly did it? You need to verify you have the exact same set up as these other performers who supposedly have these faster trucks. Usually it's not apples to apples.
What about weight reduction? What about tire diameter? What about different gearing in the trans? What about boost and juice?

Don't pull your hair out because you took on an impossible task and are now witnessing it's impossible. If you know it's doable because you have proof, then duplicate the proof. But it sounds like you're trying to make spaghetti with marinara and all you have is egg noodles and ketchup.

Sorry just watched Good Fellas. Great movie. Good luck man.

 

So now I'm pretty sure you didn't check the leak down. Why do I think this, there are no engines with 0% leakage. Especially ones with 200+K miles on them. Professional engine builders strive to get their fresh builds below 6%.


That slipped me, I think too big might be a good call.
Loss of torque is not a small thing when it comes to getting that crucial quick 60ft time.




I won't tell you what I think of the Blaster 2 coil other than it's been a good money maker for Autotronic Controls. They have a high failure rate and most V8 performance websites are littered with complaints about them. The failures aren't a new development either.

.

 

Ok.... Well.....

 

just keep throwing money at it kid...

 

Well, Good news, I stumbled across a fix for the issue while brainstorming w my buddy. Now it's just a bit more tuning from here. Thanks for the help guys. Much appreciated

 

I would be interested in seeing what you found.