Hey that is some good stuff thanks, for someone who didnt know diddly a couple of days ago I feel much more confident in my troubleshooting skills. I spoke of codes earlier here is what i rec'd the other day. (5) o2 sensor> (6) RPM signal "crank angle pulse"> (10) starter signal (11) switch signal & ECU/ECM (12) knock control sensor... Does this shed any light on any thing at all???

 

Would any one have a clue as to the codes I have just posted what they may pertain to???

 

W/o looking at it, that sounds like the computer's bad to me...

What exactly lead to the truck not running again?

 

The truck just stopped as I was backing it up to my surprise, I had just drove it home from work, was leaving again 15 minutes later started fine, I backed up and it died right wher it sits. No sputter, no backfire,no hesitation. just crapped out!!!

 

(6) RPM signal "crank angle pulse">

hmmm i thought i knew even the 22re pretty well, but does the 22re even have a crank position sensor?.

lol instances like this is why I am glad I have the carbed motor. I will sacrifice a few pony's to save my forehead.

v45willy humor me for a second, can you try starting it with the timing connector jumpered? you know the same one you would jumper to set ignition timing. if that don't work try starting it with the knock sensor disconnected.

 

please advise me on the procedure to starting it with the timing connector jumpered or is it too in depth

 

find the FSM it's easy. just follow the section that tells you how to set the ignition timing. there is a little diagnostic connector under the hood that two of the holes get jumpered. (i use a paper clip) there should also be a photo under the hood showing you which port of that connector gets jumpered. just study it carefully, because I don't know what the side effect are of using the wrong ports.

 

ahh like the one I used to receive the codes?? I think I have 3 different ones on the driverside near the coil.. where can I download a FSM on this site *thought I seen something on here referring to that, maybe not thanks

 

before you do anything with the timing, have you verified that your crank to cam timing is correct and it did not in fact jump timing?

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

 

When you keep this diagnosis in one thread...Ill try and help more...I honestly think your in over your head here....
is there anyone that can help you?


Do you have the factory service manual download yet?

 

timing connector should be on the passenger side near the front.

 

ok im getting a bit more confused I have not even pulled the vc off yet and checked the chain I am understanding that the bright link in the chain should be matched with the mark ion the sprocket correct> and the #1 cylinder should be TDC correct????

 

correct, but TDC on compression stroke, ie both #1 intake and exhaust rockers should be loose.

 

If you had interference you would know it. I had a 2003 kia rio when I was in the Army and broke my timing belt driving down the road and the front wheels locked up and the car shut down. I'm talking chip your tooth on the steering wheel seriously locked up untill I pushed in the clutch.
I was still rolling about 45 miles per hour down the road so I thought I would put her in second and pop the cluch and I got a little rotation that sounded like shaking a jar of marbles around and then locked the wheels up again.
I pulled the head laughed at myself and called the local scrap yards to see who would give me the best price. $400 btw.
That being said 4 crawler says on his site that the 22re is interferience and I am inclined to believe him. But unless you had the afore mentioned symptoms I think you are in the clear as far as interfierence goes.
This is a great site to be on, if you have a little mechanical ability and the time you could not ask for a better group of guys. You don't want to be asking questions like this on pirate that's for sure.
Just my two cents..... good luck man.

 

SO here is an interesting state of affairs... I just did a timing chain conversion to dual row. I get the whole thing back together and it is running a little rough and there is noticeable power loss especially on hills. I fiddle with it for a few hours, timing, carb etc. and I determine it is the CAM timing off just slightly. I pull the cover off and the cam sprocket and sure enough the little pin is to the right on the TDC. I I move the cam back to the 12 oclock position put the stuff back on and now it is ok.
My question is - does that little pin on the outer part of the cam have to be EXACTLY at the 12 oclock position??? What if it is off by about an 1/8"?
1st time this has ever happened to me. I must have bumped the crank or something in the process of doing the timing chain and moved it a bit off 0 TDC.
any thoughts??

 

i don't believe that pin will be perfectly at 12 o'clock. I believe it might be a little to the 11:45 or 12:15 position. I forget lol.

will have to find a photo. someone just took one recently on here. I will try to find it.

 

sorry this is the best I can do for now:

 

Hey xxxtreme22r that would be great. I still notice a little bit of power loss. Not quite sure what is going on. I have gone through the whole thing and the only thing I can think is the cam timing is slightly off.
I set the cam timing on a 22r 85 once and I remember the same deal, power loss rough running. I put a long screwdriver down the left side of the chain to push the tensioner in in order to line the cam sprocket up with the pin. On my rig I didn't do that. I managed to get it on. I am curious if I got it right.
I would love to see a pic.

 

In that photo the pin is behind that notch on the cam sprocket. That photos looks like it is exactly at 12. The shiny link is 11:45
I am wondering if it has to be exact. I wonder who on here would know for sure?

 

yeah it seems to be that way, god been a while since I did mine and I didn't help jerry do his. I wonder if he or iamsuperbleeder has the photos in their build threads.