Te to E1 and fire her up?

Right. This deactivates the High Altitude Compensator. Like setting the timing at sea level, then the EFI will compensate.

It's for a more accurate base reading.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

Well he doesn't want help from anyone on here...

Depends on the chain. Some manufacturers use the two on top, one on bottom and most I've seen are one on top and one on bottom.

IIRC, the 2 on top are used more on the 82-84 engines anyway...

That's an odd one... B/c the dowel and the match mark DO NOT line up, though everybody and the FSM says it does...

Bottom line, dot match mark on the cam gear goes to the arrows on the cam girdle.

But I've learned THE HARD WAY, it's best to mark everything BEFORE you tear an engine down.

I know I've had issues with what you've just mentioned and lining up what I thought were match marks on distributors till I'm blue, ok red in the face!

 

by chance do you have a photo of the dot match mark and the cam girdle???
What are the symptoms of the cam being just slightly off?? According to Todd at Engine Builder if the dowell pin is at 12 you are good to go..

 

No the dot is on the cam gear and there are little arrows on the cam girdle.

It's in the timing chain replacement procedure.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

 

I dont know what a "cam girdle" is. I have never heard that before. What and where is a "cam girdle.?"

 

Ahhh! The "rocker arm assembly" That's what I meant... Just couldn't tink of it.

 

My timing has jumped 7 links, I seen on this forum where a guy held the tensioner and got the chain back where it should be. Any one ever hear of this?? If so could you tell a guy what the process is?? No other way to spend a Sat.. THX

 

would help if you told us what engine this was, and (if you know) how it happened?

 

22re, how??? dont have a clue!!! stated it and it quit pulled the vc bam there it was is it common or not and how do you fix it?? do I have to treat it as a broken chain and tear it all down just to get it back?? Or is there some way to cheat???

 

please do not start threads when there is another related thread that you started. It is a whole lot easier for you and the people trying to help you. I will answer your question if it is posted in your original thread here:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...roblem-221029/

 

sorry just trying to put out some feelers, dont know quite how these forums work yet??enufofthat any way I have got my vc pulled seen my timing chain off by 7 llinks form the marks where they should be. Any way to get them back w/out tearing it all down???

 

If the chain is loose enough to jump time then it is theoretically loose enough to jump time back, but something is wrong and needs to be repaired. You might be able to force it back, but it will eventually jump again.

 

The 22RE is a 'interference' motor, so the valves WOULD hit, right?

 

This is the fourth thread you've created/posted on for this same topic in a week...

Please consolidate and stick to the one thread - don't start new ones on the same subject. You waste members' time, and cut down on the number of possible (collaborative) responses to your issue.

for what it's worth, I think you'll need to take the timing cover off to get a closer look at what's happening down there. 92 TOY has a great write up on his job, with lots of pics.

Good luck.

 

If your timing chain jumped that far, then your way past due for a new timing chain and related parts. A timing chain in good condition will not jump time.

 

***Your Four Threads on this subject have been merged into one***

 

Are you saying the timing chain "time traveled?"
we need thook in here.


If you habe the motor at tdc on compression stroke for number1 and the cam gear mark is at 12'ish then it didnt jump time. The bright link on the chain is for setup purposes only....not to determine if its in time later.... remember with two diff size gear....the link will only return to the right spot every xxx revolutions.

 

HighLux the 22re IS an interference motor. Mine jumped it's timing chain (engine builder messed up). All 4 pistons had marks from the valves and all the valves were bent.

To the OP if yours jumped that many teeth the valves are toast

 

Just did a dual row conversion on my 82 and missed a tooth when lining everything up. The truck had a loss of power and wouldn't time correctly. I was in a hurry and not fully focused on what I was doing. I think I may have advanced TDC by accident and not noticed. As a result I was almost 30 degrees off. I pulled the valve cover, took off the cam sprocket and moved it one tooth to the right and now it runs like a champ. Amazing how much one tooth off can do to the performance.
Learned my lesson
I also learned when you pull the dizzy on and off you run the risk of damaging the already hard and old o ring. I have a little leak where the dizzy meets the head. I have to order a new o ring from the stealer on Mon. The FSM recommends changing BOTH o rings every time you pull the dizzy!
This is what it looks like when you are off...

 

I responded to a different post before the OP's threads were merged. I agree that the bright links are not for reference after setup. I am not sure what is wrong with his truck as this thread suddenly got long and complicated!