Whitewaterholic

I just got a call from my mechanic who is working on my 93 4Runner (4WD). He was in the process of switching out the front drive axle's (are there even rear ones?) and told me that both the upper and lower ball joints and tie rods are shot. I'm about to head over there and take a look but my question is this: I know Toyota is going to charge out the ass for the replacements, is there anything better than stock out there for these parts? I would like to use this as an opportunity to fit my truck with better stuff, especially if they're cheaper or the same price as Toyota will charge. Any prompt response would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

MudHippy

Short answer: No

nightstalker

Not to make it worse. Ur a frame bushings are bad too, and there a barrell of laughs

combatcarl

Hippy's right. But you don't necessarily have to go to a dealer to find OEM branded parts. And there are rear drive axles, but you'd have to seriously trash some stuff to damage them. Their bearings and seals, though, do need periodical attention.

'89 22RE 4x4 longbed DLX
Sent from my LG-P505 using YotaTech

rworegon

There are numerous Toyota dealers online who sell parts at a steep discount compared to buying parts over-the-counter at their dealership. Two are in my sig line.

snobdds

Make sure there shot. I have 230,000 miles on my truck and only use it for going to my cabin and hunting. They get abused bad, but all the joints are still good. OEM suspension and steering parts are about the best there is...

Just to give you a ball park figure. I need a winter project and was deciding if I wanted to totally redo my front end or interior. So I priced out the front end ball joints and tie rod's form Toyotapartseast.com

RH upper ball joint = 63.64
LH upper ball joint = 63.64
RH Lower ball joint = 63.51
LH Lower ball joint = 63.51
Right side tie rod ASSEMBLY (fits from drag link to knuckle) = 91.07
Left side tie rod ASSEMBLY (fits from drag link to knuckle) = 91.07

Total $436.44. I figure I can get another 230,000 miles out of them while keeping the origionals as spares...since there still good.

Whitewaterholic

I went and took a look at everything just after posting this, they are most definitely shot. I have another question now: Why, in this case, are OEM parts the best option? There are other components in these trucks that people seem to always be switching to aftermarket for their superior quality.

snobdds

Examples...?

derockus

iTrader: (1)

I'm pretty sure I need to do this to my 89 4Runner too. Going to give it a thorough check this weekend and make sure I'm right. The steering wanders pretty good so I'm guessing bj's and tie rod ends are going to be the issue. Really hoping it's not the a-arm bushings.

So my question is, any brands to stay away from? Rock auto has:
Tie Rod ends
Auto Extra/Chassis Rite
Raybestos
Mevotech
ACDelco
Deeza
Beck/Arnley
Priced anywhere between $4.76 and $45.79

Ball Joints
Guardian
McQuay-Norris
Auto Extra
Mevotech
Raybestos
ACDelco
Autodrive
TRW
Beck Arnley
Moog
Priced anywhere from $6.95 to $57.79.

One thing I know I want is that all of them are greaseable.

Snortin Nortin

hey I know the feeling out of all the runners I've had (3) the tie rods and pitman arm bushings we're gone! but my newest truck the ball joints are gone too! I'm in Canada so parts are more! I paid $320 for all the steering components ties rods in and out and pitman arm! they are toyota Quality but they are greaseable ! the cheapest ball joints i can find are at the dealership in whitby here at $106 plus 15% off compared to $108 plus tax was the cheapest I could find anywere else! so I would go toyota as u just take the little bolt out and put a grease nipple on!

Whitewaterholic

Pretty much all suspension components: coils, shocks, torsion bars, etc.

MudHippy

Are examples of what?

"Components in these trucks that people seem to always be switching to aftermarket for their superior quality"?

If so...then try again. Because that's just not the case. The case is...if OE/stock vs. aftermarket OE/stock replacement. Then OE/stock wins 9 out of 10(or more), when it comes to suspension parts. As a matter of fact I can't think of any suspension parts off-hand that are meant to replace and perform like OE/stock, but actually perform better than OE/stock, and/or are in any way superior to OE/stock. I just figured I'd give you the benefit of the doubt, by allowing for the possibility that there might be(when it's most likely closer to 10 out of 10 wins for OE/stock)

Bottom line: If you want/expect OEM quality and performance...YOU WILL ONLY BE GUARANTEED THAT IF YOU USE OEM/STOCK PARTS.

So...do you want/expect OEM quality and performance?

Or has the subject of the thread now changed to "how can I upgrade my suspension with parts that will outlast or perform better than OE/stock parts"? Because we can go there, I just didn't think that's what you were asking.

snobdds

That narrows it down some...

For steering and suspension stuff, OEM is by far the best. It just is. However, I would say a aftermarket Duralast Idler arm with brass bushings from SODRI is probably stonger than a stock idler arm. But, then your're haveing to actually use two products to make one that is better than stock.

Whitewaterholic

I'm not trying to argue or anything here, you guys know more than me, but I'm always seeing people on here upgrading those kinds of things. OME is a popular brand that people seem to swear by. I've been led to believe that their products are in fact better than stock. I was just wondering if there were similar upgrades to the parts I was looking for. For clarification, "upgrade" to me means better.

Whitewaterholic

Regardless, I had the problem fixed and no longer require any additional information. I am still curious though so feel free to reply if you'd like. Thanks for the info!