Hi,

When i torqued the nuts on the studs that join the third member to the housing, the nut in the 1 oclock position busted off level with the 3rd member flange.

I was torquing to 54 ft lb per the factory service manual (seems way to high for a M8????).

After busting the one, I torqued the rest to 18ft lb, which is the spec for the e-locker equipped 3rd (mine isn't).

First, do I really need to pull it apart, replace the stud, and do it again? It is in the position above the gear oil level. The RTV seal looks good and the 3rd is super stiff. So maybe the bolts around it will hold just fine?

Second, is the FSM out to lunch on that torque spec? Seems waaaaay to high. My gut told me to stop, but I was following the manual to the 't'.

Thanks for your help!

 

you can probably get by with *temporary* getting by without fixing it (ie, watch it this week and change it next weekend.)

you can get a new stud at the dealer for a couple of bucks. I needed to pull the 3rd out to fix it but you may be able to get by using an extractor bit

 

the specs are definitely not 54lbs, that's for the driveshaft to 3rd flange, which is also a dumb spec. IIRC they are 21 or 24lbs. As far as replacing the stud, maybe just wait and see if it leaks. if it doesn't just replace the the next time you're in there.

 

ill put up the spec. it is definitely 54 ft lb....

 

Look at the torque values under step 6:

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...a/rdc/remo.pdf

 

I'd remove and replace with a diff stud eliminator kit. It is not a matter of if it will leak but when. You might be able to get it out without removing the diff.

Seems like it is 21 ft-lbs for torque spec.

:wabbit2:

 

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...35differen.pdf
I see where you got that spec. Strange, but I think that must be an error because I don't see why a locking vs a non locking would have such a huge difference. I go by this year FSM, which has the spec on the last page (that's my year truck)
18lbs for single tire and 23lbs for dually. Also if you scroll through there you'll see it's the "CONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT FLANGE TO COMPAN- ION FLANGE Torque: 4WD 3VZ–E [MT] 76 N–m (780 kgf–cm, 56 ft–lbf)
Ex. 4WD 3VZ–E [MT] 74 N–m (750 kgf–cm, 54 ft–lbf)"

My best guess is somehow that torque spec got typo'd into the diff bolts on that FSM. There is no way those little studs can take that torque imo.

 

yeah. that typo ruined my weekend. trying to drill and extract right now. ugh.

 

yea, I've learned to be careful with torque specs at times. I've got a bolt on my driveshaft which is stripped and stuck so you can't back it off because of the 54 lbs at the driveshaft spec. I just kept cranking on it waiting for the click... won't make that mistake again, but until I buy a dremel, I can't cut it off and replace the hardware. Seems to be working fine for now though.

 

thanks for the replies guys. I broke the extractor. that always happens... waiting for the stud. no toyota dealer is open on sundays in my part of the world. oh well, best to do it right and have patience. Sorry for the language. I was pretty frustrated

 

You're not alone, I did the same thing. Set the torque wrench right and everything and the stud broke. I just crammed as much sealant as I could in there and it hasn't leaked at all. But next time I'm up for the task again, I will go with the stud eliminator kit.

 

i agree with the leave it crowd, i cant imagine 1 broken studs gonna make a difference anytime in the near future, especially if its near the top

 

Tell me about these stud eliminator kits? Is the idea to go to bolts?

 

http://www.trail-gear.com/differential-stud-kit

 

Ok. So they are just some button head cap screws screwed in from the inside.
What is the advantage? Just that they don't back out instead of the nut when removing the third?

 

Yep.

:wabbit2: