On my 86 Toyota Truck 4x4 w/2.4 EFI.Driving on the road heard some thumps,thought a flat/low tire.All tires good.Pull on to the road and then a dead stop.Dosen't go in any gear.In first,easing off the clutch feels like it's being pulled back.Can't be rolled,something locked up?Flat bed tow truck pulls it up on the bed and front wheels don't turn.Take it to the fellow I bought it from.It rolls back off the flatbed,all wheels turning.Fellow,visually checks everything underneath and said it looks fine.We take it for a 5 mile ride,no noise or problems.He thinks the brakes somehow locked up/or a splitter inside the master cylinder,something hydraulic.Brake fluid was down to minimum.Any opinions? Thanks.

 

Its possible that the front brakes locked up, though its not a common thing to happen. It might be time for a new master cylinder, but also check the front calipers while your at it.

 

Myyota,does this need a certain master cylinder as I think the rear end is from a turbo?

 

The rear end makes no difference, its still an 8'' toyota rear end. Just get a master cylinder for your year truck.

 

myyota,the only thing I can think of is the lug nuts were tightened down about a week ago as they were coming loose and the fellow used an impact wrench and then torqued them.Don't know if this would cause the brakes to lock up or not,being as I know squat.Hopefully the guy who works on my vehicles will have time to check my truck in the near future.

 

Using an impact wrench on the lugs will not have any effect on your brakes.

 

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...=0#Post1220129 myyota,what are your thoughts on Eric's post on the wire forum?

 

Just looked and felt the front brake rotors and they're badly grooved.Supposed to be smooth,correct?So perhaps that EricB on the other forum had the answer?

 

The rotors can get grooves in then from worn down pads, ive seen that many times from people not taking proper care of there vehicles, but as far as the brake booster rod not being adjusted properly and causing the brakes to drag, i guess that`s possible but ive never personally seen that happen.

 

myyota,so would that cause the truck to totally lock up?Something on each caliper hanging up...or????

 

If you have a bad caliper/ or when a caliper goes bad they can hang up or drag on the rotor, this can cause the rotor to warp because of the heat build up. Check your rotors first, and then go from there.

 

Not mechanical at all and tough to find a very good decent mechanic in the California motherlode(gold country).The rotors are hot to the touch after a drive.

 

The rotors are going to be hot after a drive, that`s normal. I would say the best thing for you to do is to take your truck to a mechanic and have them inspect the complete brake system and repair as needed.

 

Took it to a mechanic this afternoon and the rotors are shot and the calipers badly rusted.

 

Glad they were able to find the problem, the new calipers and rotors should fix your problem.

 

myyota and all,besides the rotors being badly grooved and no meat left to have them turned,the left front caliper pistor was really frozen in there with rust.Right one a little better but rusty.Pads were about 30% left the mechanic said.Now on to the little gremlins left to fix in the near future.Dome light,cold start injector switch,bare coolant temp sensor...and other less worries.Thanks for the input fellows,Dave in the motherlode.

 

So did you have the rotors and calipers replaced ?.Whats wrong with the dome light, not working ?, pop the cover off and check the contacts, sometimes they get a little rust on them and it stops working. Give me some more information on the cold start injector and temp sensor, witch temp sensor, there is more than one.

 

myyota,yes he changed the rotors and put on lifetime calipers and pads.Said he's seen it before where it will lock a vehicle up.This is on the 86 22RE EFI...takes 4-5 cranks of the key to turn over in the morning,then always starts all day there after on the first try.So all the hundreds of threads I've read on the net suggest the cold start switch,some even saying often they test good and are not.This coolant sensor is to the right of the cold start switch and is green,both below the t-stat housing when facing the motor.The wires are bare going into the sensor.This mechanic will check and do all the work when he has time which probably won't be for 10 days or so,he's also an ambulance EMT so he fixes people also(sometimes,ha,ha,).I already have the cold start switch and he will code everything first.The fuse and bulb are good in the dome light,but he'll get on that also.

 

4-5 cranks to start a cold engine in the morning is not a big deal and really nothing to worry about. It is a good idea to clean the cold start injector, its going to have a lot of carbon build up on it, mine did when i removed it to clean it. As for the temp sensor, just wrap the bare wires with electrical tape, that`s all that needs to be done to fix the wires. The temp sensor is working as it is, if it wasn`t you would be getting a code (check engine light). Also have your mechanic pull the throttle body and clean it (if it hasn`t been done). Also have him look inside the upper intake while the throttle body is off, it may need to be removed and cleaned as well, it gets full of carbon from the EGR.