Thanks to all the threads on bearing replacement, I have managed to get passed the cone washers and bought the 54mm. socket in a parking lot from the Snap-On dude. Trouble is the rotor still won't come off. I can see outer bearings (Or whats left of them) Metal chunks and shavings everywhere. My daughter drove several miles despite the crunching, grinding, scream coming from the front passenger side. Any other suggestions on how to remove the rotor. Is it baked to the bearings that are baked to the spindle?

 

Well once you have the two spindle nuts off theres a large washer (that the bearing rides on) then the bearing itself... once all thats removed, the hub and rotor will come right off. If the bearings are destroyed it should come off easier.

If not, get a rubber mallet or sledge and wack the thing off.

If its that bad the spindle has probably taken damage, but you'll need to get the hub off to inspect that.

 

I rubber hammered away till' dark-thirty last night. Still won't release. I did manage to get a slight rocking-wiggle out of it, but no real sliding-my-way feeling. Someone suggested heating it?

 

BTW: 1995 4Runner V6 Auto Hubs

 

With the caliper off, put the wheel back on with tight lugnuts. Now you will have a lot of leverage and can apply pressure (or force) to any of 360 degrees. I'd put hands 180 degrees from each other and give good wiggles and even tugs. Push and pull will get you a long way. You will probably have a race that basically welded itself to the spindle.
If the spindle isn't very worn down you may be able to save it but we'll deal with that after you get the rotor off and race off the spindle.
Let us know what happens.

 

Whew! The hub/Rotor is off! The bearings (Which are now shaped like coffee beans) were turned all directions within the races. I managed to beat, pry and fleck them out one at a time. With enough of them out of the way, the rotor assembly pulled off. Now the race of the outer bearing remains seized to the spindle. I am going to try to carefully cut 90% through with a small die-grinder and then finish with a hammer.
Thank you very much for the suggestions.

Any recommendations on CV/Axle,bearing, lock nut suppliers? Thanks again.

 

Desert you nailed it. Races welded to the spindle.

 

Once you put a notch into the race you can easily split it with a cold chisel and hammer. It'll then fall right off with minor tapping.

 

Race is off and spindle looks pretty rough. Since the bearings contact the race and not the spindle, does the roughness on the spindle matter? (the area behind the race is cratered)

 

yes it does matter. there should be very little tolerance between the inner race and the spindle. Not tight put a very good fit.
You may need to visit the junkyard.

 

I had to file the cottage cheese on the spindle and managed to get the outer race to slide on and off with minimal resistance. I think I can salvage the spindle. The axle nuts are stripped. New ones will arrive tomorrow. I just hope they will help re-tap the spindle threads. If so, new pads, re-assemble the hubs and I should be good to go.

 

the correct pitch thread file can help with the more buggered stuff so you don't hurt your new spindle nuts.

 

What is a pitch thread file?

 

A thread file will follow the normal spacing between threads sort of like a tap/die except it is flat and you work it by hand like a file. Check out your auto parts place. That same file could fit your lugnuts (just an example, not sure) despite the difference in diameter of the bolt/spindle. Its all about the pitch of your thread. It allows you to just work on the damaged threads and not pull shavings along the good threads.

 

Finally, the job is complete! I borrowed a pitch file and managed to get the axle nuts on, torqued, and secured.

New front bearings, both sides, new axles, both sides, new front brake pads. $300 and three Saturdays.

Thanks for the help, Mark.

 

Sounds good. Nice work.