Well, thats what the military can do for you! I worked on EA-6B Prowlers for about five years, and it takes a few years to really know what's going on. Anybody can do metal-work and remove and replace components (most of what my job consisted of) but getting everything to work right, and being the guy who signs off on repairs and says "yes, it's good, now put 4 naval officers in it and go fly 400 miles an hour" that's a whole nother level that takes time to get to

PS, not trying to get you or anyone else to join the military, I did, I had fun, I got out and went back to college

 

Just thought I would add the easiest way to remove the pulley.

Use a pickle fork (ball joint separator).

Worked quickly and easily.

 

Chalk up another Power Steering Pump Replacement thanks in part to YT. I am 99% sure that I hooked up the vacuum lines correctly, but when at full lock the idle dips a lil bit (approx 100 RPM)...Is this normal or should it be going up by this much?

 

If it goes up instead of bogging down, you have it on correctly. I checked on that air valve & that thing is outrageously expensive even though it isn't a dealer only part. I just plugged mine off after breaking one of the nipples & I have had no ill affects after my PS pump rebuild (which was simple btw) I'd call the entire job of removal, rebuild & reinstall a 3 on a scale of 1-10 & that's only because I have relatively big hands.

 

You should really use ATF in your power steering system. There is a reason why your service manual specifies ATF. Steering fluid will destroy your seals. I have seen a good box start leaking in under a week after switching from ATF to steering fluid.