Replacing 3.0, List of other "new" parts needed
05-23-2010, 09:02 AM
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Replacing 3.0, List of other "new" parts needed. Edit: and build thread
I am replacing the 3.0 in my 89' toy and want to get a list 
going of the other items/parts I will need to swap out and put on the new motor while this is going on. Hopefully this will help others as well. Any suggestions and help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
So far I have purchased the following:
1. cap (13.50)
2. rotor (5.00)
3. plugs (18.00)
4. wires (30.00)
5. pcv valve/grommet (??.??)
6. rvt (3.00)
6. 3 pk new car air fresheners (3.99)
I plan to buy the following next week:
1. long block (1595.00) from OER (any feedback/personal exp to share on them would be great!)
2. timing kit (250.00) (comes with belt/2 idlers)
3. water pump (40.00)
totaling = $1958.49 so well call it around
$2000 since my prices are rounded after tax prices.
A little background on the truck:
89' pickup 4x, love the truck!, in great physical condition, mechanically...bought it at 215 k, has a bad water pump, one or two bucket lifters have cracked, compression is shot, sounds like a tractor.
A little background on me:
This is my third yota. I started with a 99 tacoma, tore it apart to do a SAS, big mistake because i never finished it. sold that. Years later had a 2004 3.4 prerunner, loved it but had to ditch it in for something my son's car seat would fit in easier 2004 rav 4 for the wife, vvVVRRooom! sounds like a go cart on the freeway). which brings us to the present. As a side note the rav4 is a 2004 with 17,000 on the odo currently, still smells new lol. Was my moms, she never drove it.
Oh and p.s. I dont want to do the 3.4 because of all the other items Ill need for the motor. I just want this to be as easy and quick as possible (DD). Thanks for any help.
going of the other items/parts I will need to swap out and put on the new motor while this is going on. Hopefully this will help others as well. Any suggestions and help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.So far I have purchased the following:
1. cap (13.50)
2. rotor (5.00)
3. plugs (18.00)
4. wires (30.00)
5. pcv valve/grommet (??.??)
6. rvt (3.00)
6. 3 pk new car air fresheners (3.99)
I plan to buy the following next week:
1. long block (1595.00) from OER (any feedback/personal exp to share on them would be great!)
2. timing kit (250.00) (comes with belt/2 idlers)
3. water pump (40.00)
totaling = $1958.49 so well call it around
$2000 since my prices are rounded after tax prices.
A little background on the truck:
89' pickup 4x, love the truck!, in great physical condition, mechanically...bought it at 215 k, has a bad water pump, one or two bucket lifters have cracked, compression is shot, sounds like a tractor.
A little background on me:
This is my third yota. I started with a 99 tacoma, tore it apart to do a SAS, big mistake because i never finished it. sold that. Years later had a 2004 3.4 prerunner, loved it but had to ditch it in for something my son's car seat would fit in easier 2004 rav 4 for the wife, vvVVRRooom! sounds like a go cart on the freeway). which brings us to the present. As a side note the rav4 is a 2004 with 17,000 on the odo currently, still smells new lol. Was my moms, she never drove it.
Oh and p.s. I dont want to do the 3.4 because of all the other items Ill need for the motor. I just want this to be as easy and quick as possible (DD). Thanks for any help.
Last edited by Sal; 05-30-2010 at 08:36 AM.
05-23-2010, 09:33 AM
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some photos of her all cleaned up
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/7025/dsc03354u.jpg
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/5146/dsc03350r.jpg
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/5146/dsc03350r.jpg
Last edited by Sal; 05-23-2010 at 09:42 AM.
05-23-2010, 10:07 AM
#3
Take good notes so you can get good at doing this again. 
Spending what you are spending you could do a 3.4 swap easily.
There is a huge thread on 3.0 engines with some good upgrade mods.
Spending what you are spending you could do a 3.4 swap easily. There is a huge thread on 3.0 engines with some good upgrade mods.
05-24-2010, 05:59 AM
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Thanks man. Pictures and notes most definitely. Yeah but with the 3.4 I need, the long block, then a donor for parts, the ecu, new intake, body lift, and the list goes on... Am I making this out to be harder than it is? I just do not want to turn this into a "oh crap I need this too" evertime I go to put a bolt back in.
05-24-2010, 06:03 AM
#5
You can put in a 3.4 as cheap or cheaper than the 3.ohcrap.
Much more reliable engine. There is a whole section on 3.4 swaps here.
It's your truck, do what you want, but spending that kind of $$$ on a 3.ohcrap is a terrible mistake for the investment. I'm telling you now, you will regret it.
Much more reliable engine. There is a whole section on 3.4 swaps here.
It's your truck, do what you want, but spending that kind of $$$ on a 3.ohcrap is a terrible mistake for the investment. I'm telling you now, you will regret it.
05-24-2010, 06:38 AM
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I was reading this post, and thought I would add my 2 cents. If you want to stay with the 3.0 that is totally up to you, but the 3.4 is a much better engine. It really is an easy swap. It took me two weekends to do it. Plus their are a ton of people on this forum that will be glad to help out if you get in a pinch. Plus the cost is about the same or less.
For example: I bought a 3.4 engine, bought the wiring harness plus computer and sensors, and then had the engine completely rebuilt. When I say completely rebuilt, I mean bored out, surface the block and heads, completely rebuilt heads, polished crank, reconditioned rods, and all new oil pump, water pump, bearings....etc.
I'm into the whole swap after completion, $2500. So it is well worth doing even if you need to rebuild the motor before putting it in.
Good luck in whatever you decide to do.
For example: I bought a 3.4 engine, bought the wiring harness plus computer and sensors, and then had the engine completely rebuilt. When I say completely rebuilt, I mean bored out, surface the block and heads, completely rebuilt heads, polished crank, reconditioned rods, and all new oil pump, water pump, bearings....etc.
I'm into the whole swap after completion, $2500. So it is well worth doing even if you need to rebuild the motor before putting it in.
Good luck in whatever you decide to do.
05-24-2010, 11:07 AM
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I was reading this post, and thought I would add my 2 cents. If you want to stay with the 3.0 that is totally up to you, but the 3.4 is a much better engine. It really is an easy swap. It took me two weekends to do it. Plus their are a ton of people on this forum that will be glad to help out if you get in a pinch. Plus the cost is about the same or less.
For example: I bought a 3.4 engine, bought the wiring harness plus computer and sensors, and then had the engine completely rebuilt. When I say completely rebuilt, I mean bored out, surface the block and heads, completely rebuilt heads, polished crank, reconditioned rods, and all new oil pump, water pump, bearings....etc.
I'm into the whole swap after completion, $2500. So it is well worth doing even if you need to rebuild the motor before putting it in.
Good luck in whatever you decide to do.
For example: I bought a 3.4 engine, bought the wiring harness plus computer and sensors, and then had the engine completely rebuilt. When I say completely rebuilt, I mean bored out, surface the block and heads, completely rebuilt heads, polished crank, reconditioned rods, and all new oil pump, water pump, bearings....etc.
I'm into the whole swap after completion, $2500. So it is well worth doing even if you need to rebuild the motor before putting it in.
Good luck in whatever you decide to do.
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05-24-2010, 12:16 PM
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I went the 3.0 route and have been happy so far. Bought a long block from ToyotaTruckPart.com.
As for the parts, I got the water pump.......I rebuilt the starter, alternator, belts & hoses (vacuum lines too), and had the injectors cleaned and rebuilt. I also upgraded the exhaust with LCE Headers....pricey but worth it to get the heat away from the engine faster. Finally, I had allot of "pecker tracks" to clean up and pulled parts from several donor vehicles to get it back together the way it should be.
As for swapping, I have heard allot of people talk about doing the 3.4 swap but my original engine had 195,000 on it when it spun a bearing (clogged oil pickup), I guess if it lasts another 150,000 that'll be about 10+ years for me...think I will still own it then?
If you are going to do the swap, I would suggest finding a wrecked donor vehicle and rebuilding the engine so you will have everything you need for it.....Good Luck which ever direction you go.
As for the parts, I got the water pump.......I rebuilt the starter, alternator, belts & hoses (vacuum lines too), and had the injectors cleaned and rebuilt. I also upgraded the exhaust with LCE Headers....pricey but worth it to get the heat away from the engine faster. Finally, I had allot of "pecker tracks" to clean up and pulled parts from several donor vehicles to get it back together the way it should be.
As for swapping, I have heard allot of people talk about doing the 3.4 swap but my original engine had 195,000 on it when it spun a bearing (clogged oil pickup), I guess if it lasts another 150,000 that'll be about 10+ years for me...think I will still own it then?
If you are going to do the swap, I would suggest finding a wrecked donor vehicle and rebuilding the engine so you will have everything you need for it.....Good Luck which ever direction you go.
Last edited by clocklaw; 05-24-2010 at 12:18 PM.
05-24-2010, 04:45 PM
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I went the 3.0 route and have been happy so far. Bought a long block from ToyotaTruckPart.com.
As for the parts, I got the water pump.......I rebuilt the starter, alternator, belts & hoses (vacuum lines too), and had the injectors cleaned and rebuilt. I also upgraded the exhaust with LCE Headers....pricey but worth it to get the heat away from the engine faster. Finally, I had allot of "pecker tracks" to clean up and pulled parts from several donor vehicles to get it back together the way it should be.
As for swapping, I have heard allot of people talk about doing the 3.4 swap but my original engine had 195,000 on it when it spun a bearing (clogged oil pickup), I guess if it lasts another 150,000 that'll be about 10+ years for me...think I will still own it then?
If you are going to do the swap, I would suggest finding a wrecked donor vehicle and rebuilding the engine so you will have everything you need for it.....Good Luck which ever direction you go.
As for the parts, I got the water pump.......I rebuilt the starter, alternator, belts & hoses (vacuum lines too), and had the injectors cleaned and rebuilt. I also upgraded the exhaust with LCE Headers....pricey but worth it to get the heat away from the engine faster. Finally, I had allot of "pecker tracks" to clean up and pulled parts from several donor vehicles to get it back together the way it should be.
As for swapping, I have heard allot of people talk about doing the 3.4 swap but my original engine had 195,000 on it when it spun a bearing (clogged oil pickup), I guess if it lasts another 150,000 that'll be about 10+ years for me...think I will still own it then?
If you are going to do the swap, I would suggest finding a wrecked donor vehicle and rebuilding the engine so you will have everything you need for it.....Good Luck which ever direction you go.
How many miles do you have on the motor clocklaw?
05-24-2010, 06:32 PM
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The 3.4 isn't that bad. I know a guy who has a few of them and they are low mileage, so he says. He said he would want like $900 for them. As for the hoses they are easy. The fuel line just unbolts and flips around so their isn't any mods their. The 3.0 throttle works fine on the 3.4. I put mine in a 91 4runner and the hood closes fine without a body lift it is tight though; the engine rubs the hood liner.
My 4runner has 189,000 but my motor I put in it has 163,000 and my rebuilt one took the place of my engine out of my T100. I had fun with pulling two engines, and replacing one and then doing my swap. It was all done in two week ends.
I love the power in the 4runner now and I did it for my wife, so she could have the power in the 4runner. So it would be fast enough to get out of its own way.
My 4runner has 189,000 but my motor I put in it has 163,000 and my rebuilt one took the place of my engine out of my T100. I had fun with pulling two engines, and replacing one and then doing my swap. It was all done in two week ends.
I love the power in the 4runner now and I did it for my wife, so she could have the power in the 4runner. So it would be fast enough to get out of its own way.
05-24-2010, 07:03 PM
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05-25-2010, 05:32 AM
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Yeah I just read your build thread yesterday. Amazingly clean looking 4-runner you got there! You dont see them like that anymore. Did you run into anything terribly difficult performing the swap?
05-25-2010, 11:08 AM
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If you are planning to install headers...go ahead and do it when you have the engine out...it's a real pain to get that cross over pipe out with the motor in the truck....fortunately I have a torch.
Good Luck and keep us posted!
05-25-2010, 11:17 AM
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That's what im afraid of, is not having the time. The core needs to be shipped back in 30 days or no refund. I dont see why thats not possible with 2 solid days of work with both motors side by side like you did but you never know. Yes headers would be nice. Ill live with the stock crossover for now, too expensive. The motor should be here before next weekend. How was it delivered? Truck with a forklift?
05-30-2010, 09:38 AM
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update
So last week I started to abandon ship on project new hampster wheel because of the upfront cost from OER. That being said I decided to give some love to my current motor. I decided I would fix my leaky valve covers, change the plugs, wires, pcv, valve shims, etc.
It was a glorious day here in vegas, 80 something and sunny. Went outside with my coffee and popped the hood around 8 am. Started labeling vacuum and fuel lines and dissasembling.
Have some carbon buildup.
Oops. little brittle.
pulled the covers about 3 hours later.
I dont have a picture of it, but the guy that did the timing belt before I bought the truck put one cam sprocket on backwards, so the belt is running a bit crooked and the upper iddler pulley spins freely of the belt, and has a fair bit of play. Is this normal?
At some point in the afternoon, I sat staring at the mess of vacuum lines and fuel lines and realized if I take off the wiring harness I basically have the motor free minus bolts. I dont think I want to take this thing apart again when something else breaks in a week or two lol, so I found a local machine shop with a great reputation that does 3.0 long blocks for 1,700 out the door. I have 75% of the work done to get the thing out so I borrowed these from a friend
So I am taking it out Monday morning. It is currently sitting halfway in the driveway with the arse end in the street because all 165 pounds of me surprisingly cant push all 3000 pounds of it uphill, even with no 100+ pounds of crap off just to change a pcv valve. lol. Thanks for reading and any advice on not killing myself/truck when taking the motor out is welcome.
It was a glorious day here in vegas, 80 something and sunny. Went outside with my coffee and popped the hood around 8 am. Started labeling vacuum and fuel lines and dissasembling.
Have some carbon buildup.
Oops. little brittle.
pulled the covers about 3 hours later.
I dont have a picture of it, but the guy that did the timing belt before I bought the truck put one cam sprocket on backwards, so the belt is running a bit crooked and the upper iddler pulley spins freely of the belt, and has a fair bit of play. Is this normal?
At some point in the afternoon, I sat staring at the mess of vacuum lines and fuel lines and realized if I take off the wiring harness I basically have the motor free minus bolts. I dont think I want to take this thing apart again when something else breaks in a week or two lol, so I found a local machine shop with a great reputation that does 3.0 long blocks for 1,700 out the door. I have 75% of the work done to get the thing out so I borrowed these from a friend
So I am taking it out Monday morning. It is currently sitting halfway in the driveway with the arse end in the street because all 165 pounds of me surprisingly cant push all 3000 pounds of it uphill, even with no 100+ pounds of crap off just to change a pcv valve. lol. Thanks for reading and any advice on not killing myself/truck when taking the motor out is welcome.
05-30-2010, 07:49 PM
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Well todays report is a broken injector plug, and a driveway full of antifreeze. After I drained it, the damn bucket i had must have had a crack in the bottom so I went down to Checker and got 2 of the plastic drain tubs. I will drain the oil tomorrow.
3 questions:
What have people done with the power steering pump, the compressor, and the alternator when you pull the motor out? Just let them hang there?
Is it safe to just flop the wiring harness over to the side while the motor comes out?
Is it neccessary to put a jack under the transmition when unbolting?
3 questions:
What have people done with the power steering pump, the compressor, and the alternator when you pull the motor out? Just let them hang there?
Is it safe to just flop the wiring harness over to the side while the motor comes out?
Is it neccessary to put a jack under the transmition when unbolting?
05-31-2010, 06:52 AM
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3 questions:
What have people done with the power steering pump, the compressor, and the alternator when you pull the motor out? Just let them hang there?
Is it safe to just flop the wiring harness over to the side while the motor comes out?
Is it neccessary to put a jack under the transmition when unbolting?
What have people done with the power steering pump, the compressor, and the alternator when you pull the motor out? Just let them hang there?
Is it safe to just flop the wiring harness over to the side while the motor comes out?
Is it neccessary to put a jack under the transmition when unbolting?
The Compressor and PS Pump are both laying in the battery well.
2. That's what I did with the wiring harness.
3. The transmission should have supports unless you removed them while unbolting the engine.
05-31-2010, 02:46 PM
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Thanks clock. Another series of questions for you, I apologize ahead of time.
Did you take the pulley off the PS pump to get the pump off the bracket? I just did but now looking at it I think I could have just unbolted the bracket.
So nothing needs to support the trans/bell housing once disconnected from the block?
How in the he!! did you get to the bolts on top of the trans?
Did you spend time to clean caked on grease and grime off of parts, brackets, bolts? I think It will take roughly 2 years to clean them all.
What else would hold down the starter in the eng. bay besides the small plug under it and the bigger wire held on by the eyelet under the little boot (you can see it in your picture)? I think I got everything im just afraid of breaking a wire.
Ok million dollar question here. I am really tight on space with the one car garage and the truck is in the driveway, which is on an incline. Would it be ok to hoist out the motor on a little bit of an incline? Or do I risk rolling it back into my windshield or bumper?
Did you take the pulley off the PS pump to get the pump off the bracket? I just did but now looking at it I think I could have just unbolted the bracket.
So nothing needs to support the trans/bell housing once disconnected from the block?
How in the he!! did you get to the bolts on top of the trans?
Did you spend time to clean caked on grease and grime off of parts, brackets, bolts? I think It will take roughly 2 years to clean them all.
What else would hold down the starter in the eng. bay besides the small plug under it and the bigger wire held on by the eyelet under the little boot (you can see it in your picture)? I think I got everything im just afraid of breaking a wire.
Ok million dollar question here. I am really tight on space with the one car garage and the truck is in the driveway, which is on an incline. Would it be ok to hoist out the motor on a little bit of an incline? Or do I risk rolling it back into my windshield or bumper?
