Newbie Tech Section Often asked technical questions can be asked here
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: CARiD

Problems with removing rear shocks.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 19, 2010 | 04:52 PM
  #1  
noneckrex's Avatar
Thread Starter
Banned
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
Problems with removing rear shocks.

I just tried to remove my rear shocks on my 97 4Runner and I am literally unable to. First of all it is near impossible to get to the top mounting nut. Then when I finally had my socket seated properly, I could not break it loose. It instead just kept rotating the entire shock... this was on both sides... any easier way to change these out??? or how do you get them out period?
Reply
Old Feb 19, 2010 | 05:09 PM
  #2  
olharleyman's Avatar
Contributing Member
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,607
Likes: 2
From: maryland
cut the shaft and push it out , then when you go to put the new one in and tighten it down clap a set of vise grip on the shaft and spin it till it hits the frame and then holds your shaft so you can tighten the top nut and yes it is a pain and there is really no easy way to get at it wobble extension and some creative body contortion is all you need lol
Reply
Old Feb 19, 2010 | 05:16 PM
  #3  
noneckrex's Avatar
Thread Starter
Banned
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
thanks... also I just bought some rancho shocks and they dont extend back out when i compress the shock... i am not knowledgeable when it comes to this stuff but that does not seem right
Reply
Old Feb 19, 2010 | 05:57 PM
  #4  
b4wheeler's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 239
Likes: 1
From: Pasadena, Md
That is because your new Rancho shocks are not "gas" shocks.

Only gas pressurized shocks will push back out after you push them in...

Quote from Jeep forum:
Isn't a gas shock better than an oil shock?
Yes and no. A popular misconception is that a gas shock works on gas where as an oil (normal) shock works on oil. All conventional automotive shocks work by forcing oil through a programmed set of holes, however a gas shock will use compressed gas to keep the oil under pressure.

This is done largely to minimise aeration or "foaming" of the oil which would reduce the effectiveness of the shock as air passes through the valves rather than fluid. To see what this is like, tip a conventional shock absorber upside down and pump the shaft a few times. You'll notice the movement become jerky and uneven as oil and air intermittently pass through the valves.

The gas also helps to dissipate heat which keeps the oil cooler and maintains the viscosity and therefore the shock "rate". Gas shocks are ideally suited to long travel applications like rallying and off road. In fact, this is where the technology was primarily developed in the first place as lots of spring travel over big bumps really tests a conventional hydraulic shock.

There are many types of gas shock, twin-tube, mono-tube and remote canister combinations for super heavy-duty use like rallying and off-road racing. Most of the economical gas shocks are of a twin tube construction (low-pressure) where as most performance or race gas shocks use a mono-tube (high-pressure) system. There is no such thing as an ideal system, it really depends on the application as mono-tubes may have advantages in some respect but the high-pressure gas can act as a spring complicating the suspension design process.

The main disadvantage of a gas-pressurised shock is cost; more of it compared with a conventional hydraulic. Which leads to a very simple rule of thumb to help avoid confusion. If faced with a choice of gas or oil for the same price, it's unlikely that the real working part of the gas shock is of the same standard and level of sophistication as the oil. You get what you pay for. And, choosing gas shocks generally mean you'll need to design the rest of the suspension system around that fact with spring and bar rates being affected.
Reply
Old Feb 19, 2010 | 06:54 PM
  #5  
habanero's Avatar
Contributing Member
20 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,247
Likes: 497
From: mo
B'laster a few times. There's a place to stick a little hex wrench in on top of there, then use your wrench to loosen the nut. Ditto for tightening the new one. Look at your new shock to see what I mean.
Never mind if you've already tried this.
Oh yeah, and thin little hands don't hurt either.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RedRunner_87
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
84
Jun 1, 2021 01:51 PM
lledwod
Items Wanted
1
Aug 30, 2016 01:03 PM
Jnkml
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
3
Jul 6, 2015 01:20 PM
Vargntucson
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
0
Jul 4, 2015 12:15 PM




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:09 AM.