The Detroit will be noticeable all of the time. Selectable's and limited slips are transparent until you need them...

If I had an AT, I believe w/o hesitation I'd go Aussie...

Stick, it's harder to say...

The thing you need to know about pocket lockers and full case lockers are the strengths...

Pockets are not as strong, but I haven't heard of any broken carriers...

If you get a $300 Aussie, you won't have to change the carrier out and reset the backlash on the gears and possibly have other fitment issues. A pocket locker fits inside the factory case and replaces the spider gears... It's already setup. A pocket locker is only as strong as it's teeth, cross shaft, and the factory case it comes in.

A full case replaces the whole shooting match and is way stronger...


Full tilt survival rig and this MIGHT be an issue... I don't think you need it though.

And definitely go wit the Aussie... I've read a ton of posts and there is not near as many issues with them as there is the Detroit EZ locker... I also believe the Aussie has a higher grade steel...

Here is another reason...

"Very low backlash

The"Aussie Locker" has approximately 1/2 the backlash of some other automatic lockers. The design use specialized low profile gear sets (small, wide teeth) which have almost zero backlash when engaged resulting in smoother operation. Any backlash present in the locker occurs between the cross shaft acting in the grove cut in the cam gear. Because the camming operation is smooth and progressive, rather than sharp and abrupt, it results in well mannered handling characteristics over other automatic lockers."

http://www.aussielocker.com/works.ph...853/ecc2/.html


You can mix and match lockers and such... And you should think it over real good what you decide... Remember you have a part time 4Wd so it really doesn't even matter what you put in the front... Though spools or auto lockers and turning the wheels is a pretty good chance of broken birfields...

Detroit TT up front or selectable... I don't really like clutch plate limited slips, but it's up to you anyway what you put on your truck...


Swear I'd look into TRD's if I was you. See "Inchworm" and "12Volt guy" for ways to lock the axles...

 

Wow, all the internet fanboy rumors in one post! Thanks 4x2!

Since the OP had narrowed it down to Detroit and ARB, I assume he has already decided he wants the higher strength and performance of a full carrier locker.

Molly's rig has a Detroit in the back. It is totally unnoticeable 90% of the time on the road. The only time is when you're taking a HARD turn under power - you'll hear the tire chirp a little. No ratcheting noises, etc. Her rig IS an automatic, though, and supposedly that helps. Of course, being locked all the time means you can notice it (in a bad way) offroad too - on slick, offcamber trails, the truck wants to slide sideways more noticeably than my truck.

My rig has ARB's. Even with some reliability issues, you will have to pry them from my cold dead hands. 99% of the reported reliability issues are installation related. You always have the level of traction appropriate for the situation.

Remember that an e-locker will fit in your housing too - don't rule that out.

When I was deciding on lockers, I came down to the same choice as you - detroit rear/trutrac front or ARB front/rear. By the time I added some level of on-board air to the detroit setup, the price was almost the same. People talk about how expensive ARB's are, but when it comes time to buy them, SOMEONE is always having a package deal (ie - get the compressor for free).

I'm not commenting on the lunchbox lockers because I've never owned one. The trucks I have ridden in so equipped though, the locker was WAAAY more noticeable on the road than a Detroit.

 

look at my signature...

very capable, budget build and most importantly... daily driver

 

custom front/rear bumpers and sliders are completed. i'm going with arbs all around. thanks for all the input. wabfab 4in lift. warn tabor 9k winch, bfg mud km2s, tg dual t-case, and be finished...thoughts?

 

I like it

 

i knew you would for some reason

 

well i havent had the time to take any good pics of the new bumper with my good camera yet so these crappy camera-phone pics will have to do...
this is before paint picture #1


this is pre paint pic #2


painted but not installed


painted and installed #1


painted and installed #2


so there you go...sorry for the cliff hanger...

 

should my springs look like that? (last picture)

 

Not at all, but that is what happens to stock springs after 25 years haha. When you get your new lift springs they will have a nice arch to them.

I like the bumper, you dont really see anyone go with square tube on a front bumper. I think it looks great!

 

Thanks alot! i was going to go with a tubular setup at first but decided against it....

 

Nice bumper!!!

 

Before you do anything else and spend more time and money on it, why don't you make a few loooong road trips in it (especially up mountain passes). Then, take the rest of your budget and do a 3.4 swap instead or sell it and buy a 3rd gen. Whatever you do, do not take a 3rd gen for a test drive or put more weight on your rig, ie: armor or worse yet, get bigger tires. 35's? lmao. Ya, my '85 came with them and I could not get rid of them fast enough. Its funny b/c with that motor you want this rig to be as light as possible yet for what you need it has to be weighted down with a bunch of crap. Not peeing on your parade, just saying. Make a few trips with it first where you have to cruise 75/80mph for a few hours (especially up hills).

 

currently deployed in afghanistan, so all progress has stopped...this is also why i havent posted in a while. priorities have changed ONCE AGAIN!! leaving the manual lockers up front, e-locker in the rear. 4.56 gears 33x10.5 bfg kmos or km2s (still havent decided on that one, but i have plenty of time before i need a decision though). still going with the lift, dual t-case, and a warn winch (im just going with the 9.0RC instead for fitment reasons) and i am revamping the 22re which i wont do away with. i am also going to put some money into the interior (so the wife will get in the truck with me lol) and i am going to try to do a body off frame sandblasting and painting before 2012......i am very fickle if you couldnt tell...

 

alright, been looking around and i am thinking that the ome 2" hd with a 1" body lift would accomodate 33's just fine and give me some better flex. i REALLY want an elocker, but i havent been able to find one that will fit in my runner without buying more parts. and will someone please tell me all the ins and outs of a highsteer and ifs box?

 

You'll need at least 3" susp. lift to fit high steer. I originally ran about that much lift and it was a tight fit getting the steering parts in between the frame and springs:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ng/index.shtml

 

My runner came with 33's. And they fit fine I think you won't need the body lift, it'll keep your COG lower. I doubt you'll. Have any rubbing problems

 

I think you would be better off with a 3'' spring lift and no body lift, but that`s up to you. A lot of folks here don`t like body lifts, and im one of them.

 

I had to add a 1" body lift on top of a 3.5" susp. lift to fit 33x9.50s on my '85.

Here is why?


- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml#Epilog

But put on the susp. lift of your choice, fit the wheels and tires of your choice and then if you have rubbing, trim what you can and if needed, a mild body lift will take care of the rest:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10

 

Why has no one encouraged any engine mods. yet for the 22 R-E? Surely, it can be made to perform a little better(I'm thinking head work,cold air intake,cam,header+ exhaust) to retain/improve fuel efficiency.

 

Soo..just curious why no one has encouraged any engine mods. yet to make the 22r-e more capable? I'm thinking: an upgraded(ported) head,cam,header+exhaust, and cold air intake would at least keep performance at stock levels(to offset bigger tires,weight,etc.).