On my 86 Toyota truck 4x4.Friend changed out the bushing and seat on the shifter,added Redline Mt 90 in the tranny.Changed the clutch master and the slave.The clutch pedal stays down after pressing when bleeding.Keep pulling it up by hand.Can't shift into any gear but reverse will grind when trying to put it there.Shifts fine with engine off.He checked the clutch bracket said there were no cracks or flex with pedal depressed.Why does the pedal stay down when he's bleeding it?

 

He is bleeding it wrong and has air in the line.

Leave the peddle alone and open the bleeder vavle once the brake fluide starts dripping out. Shut the bleeder. Have a second person work the pedle five to ten times and hold it down. And then open bleeder and shut it again before it quits coming out.

Repete till pressure builds up and no more air comes out of the line and make sure that the resivor does not run out of fluide.

 

Thanks 7m4x4dude,,did bleed it a little more and will go into first now..but still nothing on other gears.Will have a friend who has a shop check it out.

 

Do you have pedle pressure?

 

When he's wasn't bleeding it there was pedal pressure.When he opened it up the pedal had pressure pushing down,but it stayed down and wouldn't return on it's own.Then he put a bungee cord on it when bleeding and it would come back up.After I left for an hour and returned he bleed it a liitle more he said and now will go into first,but not the other gears.

 

Please pay attention to where you start threads as staff has had to move several tech threads out of the "Build Up" section.

Thanks

:wabbit2:

 

Yeah,sorry about that .Just get in too much of a hurray.

 

Could be bad parts out of the box!

Was it all good to go before?/

Why where you changing things??

 

Was changing things as it got harder and harder to shift gears.

 

You said you had a bungee cord. There is a spring that helps pull it back up. Are you missing it?

 

Don't know about the spring..another friend who has a repair shop just moved the truck up there.His work truck at the shop is a old 83 Toyota and he's worked on that and other Toyota's so hopefully he'll get it going.Just hope it's not the pilot bearing or some such thing.

 

I tried to ge a picture of it. It is the exact same spring that connects your brake pedal to a tab on a cross support, same setup just about 8 or 10 inches to the left of your brake spring connection.

That is just the pedal issue, there is something else going on as far as not going in gear. Bleed the lines real well and make sure the slave cylinder and master cylinder is working too. Getting the air out can be a pain. it took me lot of work to get mine operating. Pilot bearing shouldnt hold it from going in gear as I believe. It is support for tranny, not saying it isnt important, it is just shouldnt be part of this problem.

 

Thanks Terrys87,but the trucks at my friends shop now.I'm sure he'll check for that,if not I'll mention it.He said he'd put it on a power bleeder first,then check the rod adjustments to see if it'll shift into gears.

 

It's normal when bleeding the system that has been emptied for the pedal to go down and not come back up on its own. It's takes awhile of bleeding for it to start working. Even with a power bleeder it can take a lot of time. It sounds like you still have air in the system somewhere.

 

O.K. fellows,my second friend who power bled it at his repair shop got it mostly all strightened out,shifts great with the new shifter bushing and seat,plus redline MT 90 tranny fluid.Shifts smoothly into all gears.Lots of air still in there when the first friend hand bled everything.Both the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder had small leaks and were replaced by the first friend across the street.the shop owner Billy also ordered a extra long threaded rod for the master which he'll install next week,says it'll be better yet.He said he's done lot's of them that way.By the way when my friend went to replace the shifter seat with the new one from Marlin there was absolutely no sign of an old seat,not even a smudge.The black original noise/vibrationer seal which fits under the seat was totally intact,though not used with the newer style Marlin seat.The bushing at the bottom of the shifter was cracked in three places.Thanks for all the replies and ideas.My friend at the shop charged me zip for the work.Got lucky.

 

Is this a stock drivetrain? Because if it's all stock, you shouldn't need a longer rod on the slave... That is just compensating for improper engagement by the stock parts. If the clutch master and slave are good quality Toyota factory parts and have good fluid in them, and no air, it will do fine engaging/disengaging the clutch.

Toyota doesn't install the stock length rod just because they had it laying around...

 

keep in mind that there are adjustments on that rod that can change how far the pedal has to be pushed before the cluth disengages. When I changed my master clutch cylinder it was adjusted to the minimum when i pulled it out of the box. if re-setting that is overlooked, it might give your symptoms.