I have a 22r block, with 22re intake and exaust...what is a best engine oil and filter to use (brand and weight) thanks

 

Toyota Brand (Filters) & Valvoline (Maxlife for High Milage) IMO. You can't go wrong with any name brand oil as long as you are consistant in oil changes.

 

Please use the Search feature found in the blue bar at the top of this page.
It will yield hundreds of results.

Filter? OEM.

There has not been one brand that has been proven to be the best.
There are diehard Mobil 1 fans, Castrol fans, Valvoline fans, etc...

I run whatever the dealer puts in which I believe is Mobil 1.

Fink

 

This has been beat to death but here goes:
Use whatever oil test the best with UOA.
Filter EAO57
LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS
Engine Oil
Grade 1......API*
Synthetic 5W-40 European Engine Oil
SAE 10W-40 XL Synthetic Motor Oil

 

Why in the world would you recommend a xxW-40 and why would you recommend a 10W-xx ?


Fred

 

Because thats what is recomended by Amsoil and thats what their warranty will stand behind.

 

Thanks for the info, it seems I have read that mobile 1 is great oil, but with 300000 miles on my motor, runs great, no smoke, I wanted to see what oil is better for when I start my 4runner it wont sound as clanky?

 

What kind of sounds. Running to thick of an oil can hurt your flow at start up.
I have posted this before its long but its a good read and simple to understand oil better:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

 

The sounds are as though it doesnt have oil, That is a very interesting article about the oil....that is exactly what I was looking for...where I live, West Texas, temps get up to 105 down to 70 in the summer, the winter, if you call it a winter, the average is around 30 lows, to 60 highs....I wanted an oil for easier start up....again, thanks for the info

 

Wow, I now have less respect for Amsoil then before

In you post a couple above this you posted a link to that that great article on oil, yet you "stand behind" the 10W-xxx "recommendation" by Amsoil.

Sigh, silly, silly, silly.

One should always run the lowest available "weight" oil for the lower number (0w or 5w) of a multi-weight oil that they can find.
For these engines, unless there is a specific reason, one should run no thicker than a 30W for the upper weight in a multi-weight formulation.
If you read the article that you posted up, you should know that.





Fred

 

Yup, always use no thicker than a 5W-xxxx for the multi-weight, and, as you now know, even that is too thick at startup. Even a 0W-xxx is too thick at startup.




Fred

 

So, is it safe to say, a synthetic 5w-30 would be my best option, from what I read......correct me if Im wrong.......now, (Brand)?

 

Actually a 0W-30 synthetic would be your best bet, however there aren't a lot of those around.
I run the Redline 5W-20 (which is at the upper end of the 20W range and lower end of the 30W range).
The ONLY way to tell if you need a "thicker" oil (top part of the multi-weight oil numbers), is to install an oil pressure and oil temperature gauge and see if the vehicle is producing readings that require say a 40W.




Fred

 

[QUOTE=FredTJ;50877202]Yup, always use no thicker than a 5W-xxxx for the multi-weight, and, as you now know, even that is too thick at startup. Even a 0W-xxx is too thick at startup.




Fred[/QUOTE Thats sounds great but if the VI wears out the 0W-30 will ultimately be thinner, a straight 0 weight oil. When the VI is used up in the 10W-30 oil it too is thin. It goes back to a straight 10 weight oil. Maybe thats why they recomend what they do. I think they know what they are talking about thay give you a couple of options best for you. If your not getting regular UOA you dont know what your engine is doing, the can tell you alot about the insides.

 

I really appreciate the info, I currently use the toyota oil filter, what would be recommended for the 4runner? Thanks

 

You can look at the Amsoil here:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx

 

[QUOTE=dbcx;50877252]

That's true of conventional motor oils.

That is NOT the case for synthetics.

Synthetics don't start with say a 0W and add VI's to make it act as a 30W.
They are, basically, 30W that act, when cold, as a 0W (or whatever range you wish to talk about)..


That whole wearing out of the VI's is the main reason that car manfs. will "recommend" something like 10W-30 instead of a 0W-30 or 5W-30, etc., assuming that most people are using conventional oils and that a lot of the muppets change their oil about once a life, maybe .....

Again, one should, virtually, always run a 0W-xxx or 5W-xxx (synthetic) and they -xxxx should be 30 (for all of the vehicles that most are likely to encounter, gasoline powered) unless there is a specific reason to use some greater than a 30. The best way to tell that is through the use of an oil pressure and oil temperature gauge. No other real practical way to tell.
Sending an oil sample out will help with the oil condition and give one some indication of engine wear. There are actually a good handful of labs that do that for a relatively small fee.




Fred