Hello, I am replacing the Timing belt & water pump in my 1995 T100 and my holding tool on the camshaft pulley failed and the camshaft slipped a few turns when trying to remove the camshaft pulley bolt. I relined the marks on the camshaft gear & belt, and on the top L&R cam on the belt . I also turned it around once like in your pictures and it lined up at TDC & 0. Needless to say the engine will not start. I thought as long as you reline up the marks it did not mater if the camshaft was turned? Is my timing off? I have ordered a new Camshaft Position Sensor 19300-62010 PC179 in case its electrical. Any help you could give me would be appreciated.

 

Well, The truck Toyota T100 DX 1995 3.4 Liter / V6 / 5VZFE was running good when the water pump started leaking. I decided to replace the water pump & timing belt along with the front main seal, fan belts, Hydraulic Tensioner, timing belt, Tensioner Roller. It all went very hard as it was my first time. Needless to say the engine would not start. It would chug for a minute and the engine light came on. I dis assembled the the covers on the timing belt and all the marks are lined up (both cams TDC, camshaft gear mark lined up with the oil pump, and the crankshaft pulley mark on 0. So I replaced the and put it all back together. It will only chug for a minute and just grind. Wait about 15 minutes and it will do the same thing. I checked the fuel filter on the engine side and it is getting fuel through the filter. I also smelled the exhaust pipe after its done chugging and it smells like fuel. Now I noticed that the crankshaft gear is smaller than the camshaft gears? In my struggle to remove the crankshaft bolt I know I turned the crank shaft a few turns more than the camshafts. My questions is as long as all the marks line up shouldn't I be good on the timing? Any help or guidance you could give me would be much appreciated.

 

What does this mean exactly: "It will only chug for a minute and just grind"?

Do you have any pictures of how your cams and crank look at what you believe is TDC?

What are you calling the "camshaft gear mark lined up with the water pump"? On a timing belt job for the 5vz-fe it's only the cam pulleys and crankshaft that we need to be sure is at TDC.

The FSM shots of cam and crank TDC in post 35 may be helpful:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/n...review-247545/

Also, we have seen cases where a tooth was accidently broken off the crank timing gear causing problems post 11 and to proper TDC in post 9:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...-start-251393/

 

Wow, Thanks so much for replying! The engine will only chug ( run like its running on a few cylinders?) (not smooth like a engine should) for a minute and stop running. If you press on the gas petal it will stop chug running and stall altogether. Then it will not start, tries a little but will not start. Wait about 15 to 20 minutes and it will do the same thing.
Your right, I lined the crankshaft gear (the little dot mark) with the oil pump arrow mark.
I will send pictures of the cams TDC and the Crankshaft gear lined up with the oil pump arrow mark, and the crankshaft pulley mark lined up with the 0.
Please tell me what you think.

 

This should be the Camshafts TDC and the Crankshaft lined up with oil pump.

 

This is the crankshaft pulley mark lined up with 0.

 

Cams and crank look dead on and that is with the new belt correct? Each picture was taken one after another without moving the engine, correct?

Is the Check Engine Light on when engine is running? If so, can you pull the code?
All the vacuum hoses and intake tube connected?
Did you have the throttle body or spark plug wires off while doing this work?

What did you use to hold the harmonic balancer when torqueing the crank bolt to 217 ft-lbs? Any chance the rubber layer in the harmonic balancer separated?

 

What caused you to change the Camshaft Position Sensor?

The crankshaft key was in place on the snout of the crank when you slipped the crank timing gear and harmonic balancer on?

It's possible one of those small teeth got bent on the crank timing gear and is giving a wonky reading. We've found those teeth are quite fragile. P0340 is the CEL we see here typically even though it gives priority to the Camshaft Position Sensor.

A similar scenario on a 5vz-fe: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t...-wrong-238976/

The 5vz-fe is a non-interference engine so there is no issue with moving the cams or crank when the timing belt is off....well, if the heads have been shaved a bunch at some point maybe a issue, but doubtful.

 

Yes, it’s a new Toyota Timing Belt. Each picture was taken one after the other without moving the engine. The engine light is on when the engine is running (chugging). I do not have a scanner to pull a code. Can you recommend a good inexpensive one and where to purchase it? I did not have the throttle body or any spark plug wires off while doing the work. When I started the job I reached the water pump and found that they sent me the wrong water pump (mine does not have the oil cooler outlet). By the time the new one came I could not get off work to finish the job and three months went by. It’s hard to remember back three months. I will look again tomorrow with someone else cranking the engine to see if I can see or hear something while the engine is running (chugging).

 

A basic code reader from the local auto parts store will do the job assuming the '95 T-100 has the OBDII port under the dash. Some stores have a loaner program for a refundable deposit.

If nothing pops out tomorrow, you may need to get back in far enough to inspect each of those little teeth on the crank timing gear in post 5, far right picture. Another members experience...take a look at the link in post 8 above.

 

I could not think of what else it could be and the engine sound like it was out of time. The Camshaft Position Sensor looked nasty so I was hoping for a quick fix as this is the only electrical connection I can remember disconnection. I removed the crankshaft timing gear and installed the new front crankshaft seal and the Crankshaft shaft, Crankshaft key and the Crankshaft Gear itself all looked great. Harmonic Balancer on? Got me on that one? I did not remove the camshaft pulleys.

 

Oh, sorry. Harmonic balancer is what Toyota calls the crank pulley that the belts run on.

You need to find out what CEL code(s) are popping and go from there.

 

Does the Harmonic Balancer crankshaft pulley have a Position Sensor? I tried all three of my local auto parts suppliers and no loner program. I will work on acquiring a scanner soon. I am reading the link you sent me. Wow, poor guy, I’m in the same spot. Thanks so much for the help. If you think of something else please let me know.

 

There is the Crankshaft Position Sensor that reads those little teeth on the crank timing gear. The harmonic balancer does not have a sensor.

 

Use the manual link in my sig and see if you can find a resource that is close to your year for the 5vz-fe. If there is not a T-100, choose another year close by and it may help you out possibly.

 

I used a crankshaft gear puller to remove the crankshaft gear (careful not to drop it) and it looked sweet. I painted (yellow) the mark (hole) on the little tooth so it was easy to see. I also double checked that I did the right tooth with the mark (hole) in it. I did not see the Crankshaft Position Sensor? I will look for it tomorrow to see if it is obstructed or damaged. I also removed the crankshaft key and reinstalled it after installing the front main oil seal. It all seem to go sweet? I was really surprised when she did not start…

 

I looked for and found the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I looked dirty so I removed it and cleaned and inspected it. It looked good and the connector looked good. I also could not find any lose wires or hoses of any kind. Yea, after pocking around I tried it once and no it did not start, not even a chug.
I am looking at auto scanners on Amazon and wow lots of choices. I did notice that they all say 1996 and newer cars and so on. I think my 1995 T100 just made it under the wire with the scanners. I will order one tonight.

 

Wow, I found a 1996 T100 in your sig that is my motor without the extras (like the EGR valve & oil cooling port on the water pump). This Factory Repair Manual is a real blessing as I can test a lot of my parts to find what the problem is. I have ohmed out the Crankshaft Position Sensor & the Camshaft Position Sensor and they are both well in the good range. I have ordered a Auto Code Reader. It should be here soon and I will start checking the codes. I am really dead in the water till the Code reader comes.

 

You could have the ignition timing 180 degrees out. Assuming you have the valve timing set up correctly, set ignition timing marks to "0" and make sure the rotor is pointing the #1 spark plug wire position. If it isnt, remove the distributor and align the rotor with the #1 position.

 

Ummm, not quite......
The 5vz-fe 3.4L engine has no rotor or distributor...it has 3 direct ignition coils on the passenger side that also feed the driver side spark plugs.