thanks so much for the reply and advice. I have really appreciated your valuable input on this and other threads. any advice on whether it is necessary to replace the crankshaft bolt? I checked 4 different dealers within 200 mile radius and nobody has it in stock.

 

also I did acquire all the necessary parts to make the mentioned tool. You would not believe the nightmare getting off the crankshaft bolt was. after 3 broken wrenches, and trying several different techniques we finally broke it loose. wish I had the info about this tool a few days ago. It will definitely come in handy on putting everything back together

 

You can re-use the bolt if its in good condition. Some re-use (dealer typically do) and some do not. Also, if re-using the bolt a couple drops of blue lock tight on the threads is good....again, some use it, some do not.

Most important......hold the harmonic balancer good and steady before applying the 217 ft-lbs torque to the bolt.

 

Many thanks

 

This is for future searchers trying to ID their no-start issue for a previously fine-running 3.4/5VZFE after a timing belt change.

I had the same no-start issue after a timing-belt change, I also did the normal stuff you do when the engine is stripped down that far (water-pump, front main seal, valve cover gaskets, knock-sensor wire, spark plug tube seals.)

When pulling off the crankshaft gear, I chipped a tooth. I didn't think it was a big deal and put it back on when reassembling everything. I spent a bunch of time reading through threads, and even thought I was on the right track for it being a fuel-related issue as the engine would start temporarily with a little starting fluid. Talking with a mechanic buddy who formerly worked as a tech at Toyota and reading this thread confirmed for me the chipped tooth on the crankshaft gear was the issue.

It fired right up after putting the new on one, and getting everything bolted back together.

 

Assuming you have the valve timing set up correctly, set ignition timing marks to "0" and make sure the rotor is pointing the #1 spark plug wire position. If it isnt, remove the distributor and align the rotor with the #1 position.

 

Uhhm... Yeah... If you have a 3.4 5VZFE with a distributor it is a one of a kind.
Also, when messing with a distributor, if your rotor isn't pointing at the #1 plug wire you need to make sure that the #1 cylinder is at TDC on its compression stroke. Otherwise, you will be 180* off when you stab the dizzy.
Your 0 degree mark will come around twice on the crank shaft for every 1 rotation of the distributor.

 

Still possible to be firing on the wrong stroke or at the wrong time.