i just picked up a 1981 toyota 4x4 long bed, 22r 5 speed.
i love it, plans are to under coat it and paint it then drive it to work. keep it mostly stock looking and running great.

the previous owner installed sr5 gauges, and lower gauges.
he also did this
"Weber 32/36 with Offenhauser single plane intake
Fuel pump, filters, and adjustable FPR
Fresh valve job/cylinder head job
4.88 yukon gears
New Marlin Crawler HD front inner axle seals
New front brakes, have parts to do rears, just haven't done them yet
New gear lube in all the boxes
Fresh bushing under shifter (nice and tight )
New timing chain and metal backed guide
New INTERNALLY REGULATED hot rod mini alternator
Added SR5 oil pressure and volts gauge
New 31's (three dominators, and one hercules. I'm cheap, sorry)
New radiator and thermostat
Trailer hitch installed and raised up 3" for ground clearance"

everything is great, except the tach does not work, that bothers me. any clue how to make it work?

the smurf has 170k miles was orginally from cali/arizona, i got it in north carolina and trucked it the 250 miles to WV.

New timing chain and metal backed guide, i am guessing this is y it sounds like a sewing machine?

also runs rich u can smell the gas. but i got it insured and registered in wv and got a state inspection done and it passed

i have put 50 miles on it today just driving it around town.

 

Depending on how bad it's ticking, that's not good...I've never driven a truck with the metal backed timing guides, so I can't say, though. You could try posting in the "pre-84" section, too.

A Factory Service Manual (FSM) is worth it's weight in gold for these things. Try to find one.

Figure out how to adjust that carb. If it runs rich for too long, you continually wash the cylinder walls with gas, and an engine rebuild won't be far off.

For my truck doing the SR5 gauge swap required running a wire for the tach, but I thought the 79-81 gauges would swap without having to do anything extra...could just be that the tach doesn't work. But on mine, I needed to run a wire off the ignition coil into the correct slot in the back of the cluster (there are many wires going into plugs in the back of the cluster; each wire controls something different in the cluster). Search something like "sr5 gauge swap" and you should come up with a lot of info, but often every situation is different, so you'll need to figure out exactly what's going on with yours before people will be able to help you over the internet. You can find a lot of help here online, but a lot of it will come down to figuring it out yourself. As far as these things go, these trucks are pretty simple. Take out the few screws holding the cluster in, unplug the speedometer cable, and pull the cluster out slightly and make sure all the wires are in all the way.

Like I said, I don't know about the 79-81's, but I had to run a extra wire for my 83 to get the tach working.

 

the sewing machine sound is prolly the valves need to be adjusted...

The guides are metal but have a rubber coating on them...

If you want POWA!!! Then adjust the carb you have...

If you want trouble free, replace the intake and carb with factory...

 

As far as the tach is concerned, you need to investigate the connection between the coil and the tach. Make sure all the wires going to your coil are connected and have good clean connectors. There are two plugs coming off of the coil in that truck, one has two wires, one is probably round and has a single yellow or white wire. This is the tach sender, check for continuity between there and the place that it should land on the back of your gauge panel. You can search the forums here for gauge panel pinouts, or trace the wiring on the board on the back of your gauges. Also, the FSM should have a diagram showing the two round connectors to the back of your gauge panel, and which wire goes to the coil.

 

Your better off with the Weber carb. than the stock POS. If in doubt look under the hood of a truck still running the factory aisin carb. They are a vacuum nightmare.

 

i like the carb, i adjusted the adjustable fuel pressure regulator i set it to 2.5., seems to not have that rich smell as bad.

the sound is simular to the 3rz i use to have but louder.
they may need adjusted i will check.

the owner said it worked when he first installed it but one day just stopped..... i saw the two wires, but will check it in the daylight.

put almost 100 miles on it today.

i will search for a fsm

thanks.

 

Then you need to broaden your horizons a bit...

I suggest starting with a 3.0 V6 in 94 4Runner... Just a few more than the vac hose laden "nightmare" AISIN's you describe...


And I've never heard of the AISIN described as a POS... You're the 1st...

 

Tons of people actually describe it as a POS, only because once it starts having issues, it does suck. Even when rebuilt, they often never perform nearly as well as when new. When they are working right, or if you really know your Aisins, they are waaay better than a Weber. Start right up with one pump even on a sub-zero day. But once they start going, they're just never the same again, unless like I mentioned, you really know what you're doing. There have been a lot of debates between the Weber/Aisin camps on which is better. Both have their diehard fans.

I think you can say that if you want simplicity and don't mind a little more need for fine tuning and quirkiness, a Weber is nice. I agree though, if you think that a first gen Toyota with a stock carb is a vacuum nightmare, I'd hate to think how much fuel injection would scare you. It is nice to look under the hood and just see a couple hoses though with a Weber.

 

No worries! I would describe under the hood of my truck with a 22RE as a vacuum nightmare as well.

 

Yeah, doesn't matter since his came with a Weber already on it anyways.

 

And not to beat the point home, but the Aisin carb only needs to have 2 vacuum lines installed in order to work and be smog legal (the same two as your weber). The rest are for "conveniences" that a weber doesn't have, like a high altitude compensator.

Just sayin...

 

well after i set the regualator to 2.5 the engine got quieter.

it is very quiet, u just ear the tires now.

been following lines but cant get the tach to work look like everything is hooked up, some one mentioned it could be burnt out? how is that possible. is ther a way to fix it...

 

I already answered this, right here:



Your tachometer gets its signal over a single wire from your ignition coil. There should be two plugs coming off of your coil, you want the plug with a single, heavy gauge (#12 or #10 AWG I believe) that is coming off of the coil. Disconnect this wire from the coil, identify the position on the round terminal plugging into the back of your gauge panel where the tach signal wire lands. Use a multimeter, measure for continuity between the lead at the tach and the lead on your dash. If you don't have continuity, you have a broken or shorted out wire. It is unlikely that you have a blown tach, the wire from the coil to the dash is "fusible link" wiring, meaning the wire acts like a fuse and blows out if it takes too much current draw. The most likely failures are blown or shorted wire, or a bad connector to the coil. At worst, you have to run a new wire from the coil to your tach.

 

thanks,
ok there is a thick brown wire and black wire and yellow wire in the another loom coming off of it, the black wire is not plugged into any thing, the ywllow wire is, and the thicker brown wire is.



now the fsm on ncttora is for a 1979-1985 Toyota Pickup and 4-Runner Gasoline FSM 22R

but show square plugs on their wiring diagram.
not the circle i have.

i dont have a multi-meter.

 

The circle is, on my rig, the tach sender. My advice - If you don't have a multi-meter, and you want to diagnose electrical problems yourself, go buy one. You can get a low end multimeter at any hardware store for 20$. If you don't much know how to use one, I highly recommend purchasing a digital multimeter, as it will be a lot easier for you to read than one with an analog needle. You don't want to just blindly plug things into places in the harness, this is a good way to blow wires up and start fires.

 

i have used them, i just dont own one. will have to pick one up next payday.

so to test if that is indeed the tach singal, set it to ohms? and check for input?

i guess the tach never worked cause there is no harness to plug it into...

 

Hmmm... Did the PO change the whole gauge cluster when he added the SR5 oil/volts pod? Not all of these trucks came with tach from the factory, that is the only thing that would explain the lack of factory wiring for the tach. Otherwise, definitely don't take my word for gospel on the round plug, my coil is slightly different from yours, and the harnesses varied from year to year. This is where testing those circuits with the meter will come in handy, you can identify where they go, and see if one goes to your gauge panel.

 

The ttora FSM's actually start at 85. Or maybe 84. I tried using that one for a while and it does NOT work for our trucks. Real FSMs are year specific, they don't cover a range of years. One year only. Look for an '81 FSM if you really want some good specific info on your truck, or go into the "Pre-84" section of this site and see if anybody with an '81 FSM will scan you some of the appropriate pages. I don't know why they insist on calling that early FSM '79-85. It's just not true. To date, there are no online 79-83 FSMs. You can either buy a hard copy new, or find one used, but you won't find a downloadable version.

From what I've heard about the 79-81s, even if they didn't come with a cluster with a tach in it, all you have to do is plug in a cluster with a tach, and it should work. Should already be wired for it, even though the truck didn't actually come with a tach from the factory. But on my truck, with the square plugs, I did have to run a wire. So, you should really find out if the tach even works first, because I'm guessing that your truck should already be wired for it, so the previous owner should have been able to just plug in the new cluster and have the tach work.

 

stock was no tach.
mine was built aug 81, and titled as an 81.

 

Yep, but those early round plug models should be wired for the tach, whether or not the cluster has one. Like I said though, this is just something I read on the internet, so....
If it's true though, you should be able to take a truck that came with no tach, get a cluster with a tach, plug in the plugs, and it would all work. Assuming the tach in the cluster is functional of course.