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Hey guys, total newbie here to these older Toyota's. I had an 08 Tundra 5.7, and an 01 4Runner before this, but i couldn't resist this truck.
What should I replace and or get looked at if I don't know the specific background of the engine? It has a clean Carfax, but that means nothing when it comes to the engine. It has about 150k on it, and does seem to be leaking some oil from the backside of the engine from the top.
Welcome to the site. That's a good looking truck.
Let me throw out some common things that will possibly prevent you from posting things that have already been covered time and time again.
First things first
Before any work is done make sure there isn't currently a problem with the head gasket or changing the engine oil and filter along with any work on the cooling system will be for nothing and a waste of money.
Do a Block leak test to see if the head gasket already has any problems!
Use a Block leak tester, Combustion leak tester, Combustion leak Detector, whatever you want to call it:
The Combustion Leak Test Kit will test your coolant for the presence of exhaust gases. This proves if there is a breach between your combustion chamber and coolant passages or not.
Next you'll want to follow that up with a compression test to check for a tired engine with rings that don't seal well or leaking valve problems.
If the engine was leaking coolant into the cylinders for long and they kept driving it there's a chance that some of the cylinders will not be sealing well and be down on output. Some people will not be happy and want to rebuild the engine.
If you're happy with the results change your fluids. I change the fluids even if it looks good. You never know what garbage was put in there, it might just be from the dollar store.
Oil
Oil Filter
Differentials
*Transmission
Transmission gear oil:
Most people and shops install standard GL4/GL5 gear oil in these transmissions. While that's not bad it seems these Toyota/Aisin manual transmissions really seem to love Redline MT-90 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46
A word about oil and oil filters on the 22R/RE series engines
Because of the mounting angle these engines need an oil filter with a very good anti drain-back valve. If you run them with an anti drain-back valve that's not real good it causes some start up noise. I've been through a few different brand and design oil filters https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...sioner-288088/
The best I've found at preventing start up noise is the OEM Toyota 90915-YZZD1.
Most long time 22R/RE owners swear that synthetic oil isn't needed on these engines as it doesn't seem to benefit them much. Alot of these engines will go for 250k-300k on standard oil with Regular Oil And Filter Change Intervals of between 3,000-3,500 miles.
It's fairly common to have a somewhat noisy valvetrain on these engines and most seem to think that synthetics (even thick ones) only make it worse.
Alot of people with fresh engines run non synthetic 10W-30. Alot of people with close to 100K run 10W-40 and then there are those who really love to run these engines with 20W-50 because it quiets the valve train down. With over 100,000 miles on my engine I'm in the 20W-50 group.
Check the fault codes!
It's a good idea to check for codes even if the Check Engine Light isn't illuminated. Sometimes the computer will have active faults but they won't trigger the CEL.
First turn the key to the run position (don't start it) and make sure the Check Engine Light comes on. If it does you're a go to start checking the codes. It's super easy and here's how http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TroubleCodes/
Sometimes a code will be triggered by a bad ground so make sure all of the grounds are in place and they are good!
GROUND WIRES!!!
What some don't realize is that bad grounds can contribute to a failing cooling system in the form of electrolysis that I mention below so be sure they are all there and in good shape.
It's a good idea to check the grounds for other issues and prevention of mysterious problems or poor performance. Sometimes cleaning or replacing grounds can make an amazingly big difference in the overall drivability of the truck. Brighter headlights, stronger heater blower, easier starting, eliminate charging problems, smoother idle etc.
I can't begin to tell you how many people on this website overlook their ground wires!
Even if you tell them to check them out all they seem to want to do is take a quick glance at them without unbolting them to look at the actual connection. Ask them to do a voltage drop test to find a bad wire or connection problem and there's a very large chance that isn't going to happen. Electronics definitely isn't my strong suit either.
Your leaking valve cover
It's common to find that the valve cover is leaking from the rear. It's most likely not even the valve cover gasket causing problems, it's probably the rubber Semi-Circular/Half moon end plug at the back that sit's directly underneath the valve cover gasket. There's one at the front of the head and one at the back. Not many report a problem with the front one but the back one has a bad reputation especially when the valve cover has been removed to check the valves and then reinstalled. You'll want to fix that asap because even a small leak can create one heck of a mess on top of the transmission and under the truck if you let it go for long enough. Mine had been leaking for so long before I purchased it that I'm pretty sure it saturated the clutch disk. I was getting stinky clutch slip when I'd give it full throttle at low rpm in third. When I fixed the leak the clutch started slipping less and less.
It's generally recommended that you go with the Toyota OEM Valve Cover Gasket PN# 11213-35010
The Felpro Semi-Circular/Half moon plug is slightly thicker and probably stands a better chance of sealing up but some people still prefer to use OEM parts.
Look at this link for valve cover replacement procedure http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7cylinder.pdf
Scroll down to page EG1–35 and have a look at Fig 7. and also Fig 8. on page EG1–36.
Right under that is the torque specifications for the valve cover.
If you don't have a torque wrench run the nuts down till seated and turn them another 3/4 of a turn.
Use Toyota FIPG or Permatex Ultra Grey sealant in the area's indicated.
I had a very small leak back there and found running my hand on the back of the engine wasn't a good way of looking to see EXactly where it was coming from. I purchased a curved dental inspection mirror and used it along with a flashlight to see the leak. It worked good enough that I could see where it was coming from but I found the viewing area of the mirror to be a little small and the fact that I couldn't bend it to get the angle I wanted was very frustrating.
I was loaned this tool and it works very well for this purpose
Since you'll have the valve cover off fixing a leak it's a great time to check the valve lash and have a look at the timing chain guides
The Factory Service Manual calls for a valve lash of .008 Intake & .012 exhaust (Inches) Warm.
After some people set them to factory specifications they find the valves make too much noise. What usually quiets them down is setting them to .007 Intake & .011 (Inches) Exhaust Warm.
Here's how to set the valves http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...djustment.html
What you're trying to do here is make sure the rocker is on the base circle/heel portion (no lift portion) of the cam so that the valve is in the fully closed position. It's very easy to see when you look at the cam with the valve cover off.
Timing chain guides YOU DO NOT WANT TO OVERLOOK THIS AREA!
22RE Temperature overshoot.. What is it?
Question: “Why does my engine temp go all the way up to the red before it comes back down to the middle of the gauge after I start it up in the morning. It only does this when the engine is cold and once it warms up it seems to operate normally. Could it be as simple as a stuck thermostat?”
“What happens on the 22R and 22RE engine, when the coolant goes through the heater core it gets cooled off enough that when it gets dumped back in on top of the t-stat it shuts it. Therefore the temperature in the engine continues to go up. The Toyota two stage thermostat has two valves in it, one opens at the regular temp, and one smaller that opens at a cooler temp. If the cool water shuts the big one, the smaller one stays open. All this happens because of the lack of a by-pass hose, which on other systems, keeps hot coolant running on the t-stat.”
You can get the two-stage thermostat mentioned above from your local Toyota Dealer but it isn't cheap. It is also a 190 degree thermostat.
Toyota Two Stage 190 degree thermostat P/N: 90916-03070
Also, sure you can get an aftermarket thermostat and perhaps never have a problem with it sticking open or closed but it seems that is an incredibly shrinking list. You sure as hell don't want a thermostat to stick closed on one of these engines!
If you want a cooler 180 thermostat there is always the OEM Toyota 180 degree thermostat made by Kuzeh. It might still cause the temperature overshoot but it will run at cooler temperatures.
Toyota one stage (normal) 180 degree thermostat
Toyota P/N: 90916-03083
Cooling system maintenance, YOU DON'T WANT TO OVERLOOK THIS AREA
Because of dissimilar metals (iron block and aluminum head) these engines are susceptible to electrolysis in the cooling system. What it basically means is that the coolant turns acidic and starts eating components.
I suggest you take a look at the coolant that's in the overflow bottle. If it's green you'll want to replace it with OEM Toyota Red P/N: 002721LLAC01 (it's not cheap) and DISTILLED WATER. That coolant is a special low silicate formula that helps prevent electrolysis from starting on Japanese engines with dissimilar metals. You'll still need to flush and replace on a regular schedule.
"When the coolant gets acidic it will act like an electrolyte, this sets the stage for electrolysis to occur and the destruction of thin aluminum components to begin."
"Electrolysis occurs when stray negatively charged ions (electrical current) routes itself through the engine coolant. The electricity is attempting to find the shortest path, and impurities in the coolant often generate a path of least resistance that the electricity travels across. The source of this stray electricity is often from electrical engine accessories which have not been properly grounded. A missing engine or transmission ground strap can also cause the coolant to become electrified. Sometimes the path of least resistance becomes a radiator, a heater hose, or even the heater core. These components are often well grounded, and offer a ground path from the engine to the chassis by means of the semi-conductive path of the coolant.
Electrolysis can destroy your engine quickly. Although it’s semi-normal to have very small amounts of voltage potential in your coolant system, values greater than about a tenth of a volt can start reactions between the coolant and the metal in your engine. In particular, electrolysis affects primarily aluminum engine components, resulting in pitting and scaring of the aluminum surface. This eating away of the metal can cause coolant system leaks, and in particular, radiator leaks around aluminum weld. Aluminum components are always most vulnerable. On Aluminum engine blocks and heads in particular, electrolysis can be easily seen attacking aluminum. Figure 1 shows a picture of the thermostat area of a cylinder head that has been partially damaged by electrolysis. Notice how the aluminum has been eaten away, and eroded by the chemical/electrical reactions."
From the ASE page
"Electrolysis is extremely corrosive and eats away the inside lining of aluminum parts, especially thinner parts like aluminum heater cores. It is said that a current of 0.5V or more will corrode a cast iron block. It takes much less current to damage an aluminum engine block and many of its components. It's more like 0.15V to 0.20V."
The Tune up
Use only standard spark plugs. No need for ultra expensive plugs with 12 ground electrodes or exotic materials.
Thinking about installing US plugs like AC Delco, Autolite, Champion..
DON'T, just don't do it.
The best thing you can do is go to the dealership and get the OEM Denso spark plugs.
Toyota P/N: 90919-01064
Believe it or not they are different than what Denso sells to the aftermarket. The aftermarket Denso plugs have a screw on terminal tip that can come loose and cause mysterious engine roughness.
Second in line would be off the shelf NGK V Power spark plugs
P/N: BPR5EY (Stock#1233)
Distributor cap and rotor
I can't single out one brand out but I know there are many on this website that from experience once again recommend you use only the dealer service center available Denso cap and rotor.
About spark plug wires,
Yes you can get a set that transfer slightly more current than the OEM wires but you won't be gaining anything noticeable over a GOOD (not toasted and used up) set of OEM plug wires. You simply won't be gaining much if anything here. Because of this I consider the OEM dealer service center replacement wires a better choice because of longevity and fitment.
OEM wires are the perfect length and they come with all the correct looms that bolt to your valve covers helping to keep the wires in place and routed neatly.
Most aftermarket wires are too long and look sloppy when mounted.
A couple other things the OEM wires have going for them over an aftermarket set is that they are also sealed wherever the boot meets the wire helping to keep out moisture. That's something none of the aftermarket wires have.
Also all of the aftermarket wires I've seen have fitment issues in my mind.
For the most reliable fitment and connection Angled spark wire boots get Angled connectors and Straight boots get Straight connectors!
The OEM wires have angled connectors and boots like it should be.
What does the aftermarket set have.. Angled boots and Straight connectors...
OEM wires and looms
If you're heart is set on aftermarket I'd get NGK's or Belden Premium from NAPA, most others are just hyped up junk or overpriced for this application.
Clutch Hydraulics
If you need to replace the clutch master or slave cylinder do not purchase these from your local parts store- AutoZone, O'Reilley etc. Don't let the lifetime warranty suck you in. There are MANY posts about out of the box failures and short life spans with the standard auto parts store replacement parts. Replace these parts with Aisin parts. You can use http://www.aisinaftermarket.com/English/Catalog.php to find what you need then check the internet for the best prices. Be sure to check Rockauto.com for prices (don't forget to add the shipping price to the total) and do a search on the part number. The price for Aisin parts isn't much more than the junk you'll get from your standard parts store.
If you're going to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders you should go ahead and replace the clutch hose at the same time.
With age the hose can weaken and balloon when you push the pedal resulting in a loss of pressure and a loss of movement.
Clutch bracket cracks
It's common for these trucks to develop cracks in the clutch bracket that will prevent full operation of the clutches hydraulic system making it difficult to shift. Crawl under there with a flashlight and depress the pedal. Look for any bracket movement, flex, or cracks. If any are detected you'll need to remove the bracket and have it welded.
Shifter
It's common for the rubber shifter seat bushing to get mashed and start falling apart resulting in sloppy, imprecise shifts.
A FANTASTIC remedy to this is the Delrin shifter seat and socket upgrade available from https://www.marlincrawler.com/hardwa...-forward-shift
I like it so much I recommend everyone get the set even if they don't have sloppy shifter problems.
Headlights
A common failure is that the high beams quit working, there's a common fix for that too. It's usually a dimmer switch/headlight combo switch problem https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...h-beam-156395/
Most people say these trucks have dimm headlights, there's a reason for that.
Because of the thin wires Toyota used and the way they are routed there simply isn't enough voltage making it too them so they're dimmer than average. It's highly recommended that you either purchase or make a headlight relay harness. If you have the 9004 headlight you might be better off making one.
Let me throw out some common things that will possibly prevent you from posting things that have already been covered time and time again.
22RE
Myself, when I get a new To Me vehicle I change the fluids first even if it looks good. You never know what garbage was put in there, it might just be from the dollar store. Most people and shops install standard GL4/GL5 gear oil in these transmissions. While that's not bad it seems these Toyota/Asian manual transmissions really seem to love Redline MT-90 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46
There are several links on this site and many others where Toyota owners swapped it and loved it. Here is just one, https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/m...t-90-a-211552/
I put it in and had the same experience with smoother shifts, especially in cold weather.
Do your fluids:
Oil
Oil Filter
Transmission
Differentials
A word about oil and oil filters on the 22R/RE series engines
Because of the mounting angle these engines need an oil filter with a very good anti drain-back valve. If you run them with an anti drain-back valve that's not real good it causes momentary oil starvation and you'll get some noise at cold start up in the mornings or when it sits for long periods of time. I've been through a few different brand and design oil filters https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...sioner-288088/
The best I've found at preventing start up noise is the Toyota 90915-YZZD3 oil filter that you get at the Toyota service center or the Ford designed filter. Right now I'm running the Motorcraft FL-A1 which is a much larger filter than the YZZD3 but it seems to be doing very good.
Most long time 22R/RE owners swear that synthetic oil isn't needed on these engines as it doesn't seem to benefit them much. Alot of these engines will go for 250k-300k on standard oil and Regular Oil And Filter Change Intervals of between 3,000-3,500 miles.
It's fairly common to have a somewhat noisy valvetrain on these engines and most seem to think that synthetics (even thick ones) only make it a little worse.
Alot of people with fresh engines run non synthetic 10W-30. Alot of people with close to 100K run 10W-40 and then there are those who really love to run these engines with 20W-50 because it quiets the valve train-down. I'm in the 20W-50 group.
Your leaking valve cover
It's common to find that the valve cover is leaking from the rear. It's most likely not even the valve cover causing problems, it's probably the rubber 1/2 moon end plugs that sit directly underneath the valve cover and it's gasket. There's one on the front of the head and one on the back. You'll want to fix that asap because even a small leak can create one heck of a mess on top of the transmission and under the truck if you let it go for long enough. Mine had been leaking for so long before I purchased it that I think it saturated the clutch disk. I was getting stinky clutch slip when I'd give it full throttle at low rpm in third. When I fixed the leak the clutch started slipping less and less.
Look at this link for valve cover replacement procedure http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7cylinder.pdf
Scroll down to page EG1–35 and have a look at Fig 7. and also Fig 8. on page EG1–36.
Right under that is the torque specifications for the valve cover.
If you don't have a torque wrench run the nuts down till seated and turn them another 3/4 of a turn.
Use Toyota FIPG or Permatex Ultra Grey sealant in the area's indicated.
I had a very small leak back there and found running my hand on the back of the engine wasn't a good way of looking to see EXactly where it was coming from. I purchased a curved dental inspection mirror and used it along with a flashlight to see the leak. It worked good enough that I could see where it was coming from but I found the viewing area of the mirror to be a little small and the fact that I couldn't bend it to get the angle I wanted was very frustrating.
I was loaned this tool and it works very well for this purpose Amazon.com: Ullman HTE-2 Glass High-Tech Telescoping Inspection Mirror, 1-1/4" Diameter, 6-1/2" to 35" Extended Handle Length, Clear: Industrial & Scientific
Since you have the valve cover off it's a good idea to check the valve lash and have a look at the timing chain guides
Here's how to set the valves http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...djustment.html
What you're trying to do here is make sure the rocker is on the base circle of the cam so that the valve is in the fully closed position.
If they make too much noise some people tighten the lash up to .007 Intake and .011 Exhaust
Timing chain guides YOU DO NOT WANT TO OVERLOOK THIS AREA!
Clutch bracket cracks
It's common for these trucks to develop cracks in the clutch bracket that will prevent full operation of the clutches hydraulic system making it difficult to shift. Crawl under there with a flashlight and depress the pedal. Look for any bracket movement, flex, or cracks. If any are detected you'll need to remove the bracket and have it welded.
Cooling system maintenance, YOU DON'T WANT TO OVERLOOK THIS AREA
Because of dissimilar metals (iron block and aluminum head) these engines are susceptible to electrolysis in the cooling system. What it basically means it that the coolant turns acidic and starts eating components.
I suggest you take a look at the coolant that's in the overflow bottle. If it's green you'll want to replace it with OEM Toyota Red P/N: 002721LLAC01 (it's not cheap) and DISTILLED WATER. That coolant is a special low silicate formula that helps prevent electrolysis from starting on Japanese engines with dissimilar metals. You'll still need to flush and replace on a regular schedule.
"When the coolant gets acidic will it act like an electrolyte, this sets the stage for electrolysis to occur and the destruction of thin aluminum components to begin."
"Electrolysis occurs when stray negatively charged ions (electrical current) routes itself through the engine coolant. The electricity is attempting to find the shortest path, and impurities in the coolant often generate a path of least resistance that the electricity travels across. The source of this stray electricity is often from electrical engine accessories which have not been properly grounded. A missing engine or transmission ground strap can also cause the coolant to become electrified. Sometimes the path of least resistance becomes a radiator, a heater hose, or even the heater core. These components are often well grounded, and offer a ground path from the engine to the chassis by means of the semi-conductive path of the coolant.
Electrolysis can destroy your engine quickly. Although it’s semi-normal to have very small amounts of voltage potential in your coolant system, values greater than about a tenth of a volt can start reactions between the coolant and the metal in your engine. In particular, electrolysis affects primarily aluminum engine components, resulting in pitting and scaring of the aluminum surface. This eating away of the metal can cause coolant system leaks, and in particular, radiator leaks around aluminum weld. Aluminum components are always most vulnerable. On Aluminum engine blocks and heads in particular, electrolysis can be easily seen attacking aluminum. Figure 1 shows a picture of the thermostat area of a cylinder head that has been partially damaged by electrolysis. Notice how the aluminum has been eaten away, and eroded by the chemical/electrical reactions."
From the ASE page
"Electrolysis is extremely corrosive and eats away the inside lining of aluminum parts, especially thinner parts like aluminum heater cores. It is said that a current of 0.5V or more will corrode a cast iron block. It takes much less current to damage an aluminum engine block and many of its components. It's more like 0.15V to 0.20V."
It's a good idea to check the grounds for other issues and prevention of mysterious problems or poor performance. Bad ground problems can also throw some Check Engine Codes so definitely have a look. Sometimes cleaning or replacing grounds can make an amazingly big difference in the overall drivability of the truck. Brighter headlights, stronger heater blower, easier starting, eliminate charging problems, smoother idle etc. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-194413/
22RE Temperature overshoot.. What is it?
Question: “Why does my engine temp go all the way up to the red before it comes back down to the middle of the gauge after I start it up in the morning. It only does this when the engine is cold and once it warms up it seems to operate normally. Could it be as simple as a stuck thermostat?”
“What happens on the 22R and 22RE engine, when the coolant goes through the heater core it gets cooled off enough that when it gets dumped back in on top of the t-stat it shuts it. Therefore the temperature in the engine continues to go up. The Toyota two stage thermostat has two valves in it, one opens at the regular temp, and one smaller that opens at a cooler temp. If the cool water shuts the big one, the smaller one stays open. All this happens because of the lack of a by-pass hose, which on other systems, keeps hot coolant running on the t-stat.”
You can get the two-stage thermostat mentioned above from your local Toyota Dealer but it isn't cheap. It is also a 190 degree thermostat.
Toyota Two Stage 190 degree thermostat P/N: 90916-03070
Also, sure you can get an aftermarket thermostat and perhaps never have a problem but it seems that is an incredibly shrinking list. You sure as hell don't want a thermostat to stick closed on one of these engines!
If you want a cooler 180 thermostat there is always the OEM Toyota 180 degree thermostat made by Kuzeh. It might still cause the temperature overshoot but it will run at cooler temperatures.
Toyota one stage (normal) 180 degree thermostat
OEM Toyota P/N: 90916-03083
Another thing to do is check for fault codes.
Often sometimes the computer will have active faults but they won't trigger the CEL. It's a good idea to check for the codes. First turn the key to the run position (don't start it) and make sure the Check Engine Light comes on. If it does you're a go to start checking the codes. It's super easy and here's how http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TroubleCodes/
Like I mentioned above sometimes a code will be triggered by a bad ground so take a look.
Headlights, most say they suck.
Because of the thin wires used and the way they are routed there simply isn't enough voltage making it too them so they're dimmer than average. It's highly recommended that you either purchase or make a headlight relay harness. If you have the 9004 headlight you might be better off making one.
Wow, Odin thank you, this is perfect. I am taking it to my father in law (mechanic) for the once over but he's more of a domestic truck guy so this list is a great starting point.
Read for a few weeks the different threads about these engines
Just what issues were discovered in your pre purchase inspection??
A 150,000 miles has the timing chain ever been done??
When I get a Toyota I start at the ground and work up.
Frame is any attention needed??
Brakes and brake lines
Suspension and steering parts
We all do things in our own way.
Then the part of the world you live has it`s own areas of concern .
Best of Luck and Welcome to Yota Tech
Unfortunately I did not have direct seller contact. This was from a new format of used car sales in my area, basically consignment, so I don't know about timing chain, etc. I was just thinking that replacing the head, head gasket, and timing chain would be relatively inexpensive and may save a headache later?
No reason to replace the head or head gasket unless there's already a problem. On these engines the biggest reason they fail is because the owner neglected the cooling system and or overheated it.
Make sure he does a block pressure test, pressure tests the cooling system, and makes sure the overflow line is capable of returning coolant to the radiator. Have him do a full system flush. That includes taking the plug in the block out and flushing it.
Metal particles like to hide in there and add to the electrolysis problem. I'd replace the current thermostat with one I mentioned above simply because it's an unknown and the older they are the more prone to failure they are.
If these engines get air bubbles/pockets they will develop a rough or surging idle. Because the coolant line that goes to the heater flow control valve is the highest point in the system special care must be taken to bleed the air out of the system.
Replacing the timing chain and guides is a great idea. Make sure to get the AFTERMARKET METAL chain guides so they won't break. That's very common with the stock parts. Some people like to replace the oil pump and water pump since they have it that far apart. Get Aisin/Toyota parts there.
What year does that stuff cover.. i know 85 & up is different then 81-84.
How similar is that list for my 83 22R.? (I'm guessing mostly the same)
Because I own a 91 2wd truck I've dedicated my knowledge to the 86-95 generation so all I can do is guess at the earlier stuff. Like you I'm sure most of it is the same.
Welcome to the site. That's a good looking truck.
Let me throw out some common things that will possibly prevent you from posting things that have already been covered time and time again.
First things first
Before any work is done make sure there isn't currently a problem with the head gasket or changing the engine oil and filter along with any work on the cooling system will be for nothing and a waste of money.
Do a Block leak test to see if the head gasket already has any problems!
Use a Block leak tester, Combustion leak tester, Combustion leak Detector, whatever you want to call it:
The Combustion Leak Test Kit will test your coolant for the presence of exhaust gases. This proves if there is a breach between your combustion chamber and coolant passages or not.
Next you'll want to follow that up with a compression test to check for a tired engine with rings that don't seal well or leaking valve problems.
If the engine was leaking coolant into the cylinders for long and they kept driving it there's a chance that some of the cylinders will not be sealing well and be down on output. Some people will not be happy and want to rebuild the engine.
If you're happy with the results change your fluids. I change the fluids even if it looks good. You never know what garbage was put in there, it might just be from the dollar store.
Oil
Oil Filter
Differentials
*Transmission
Transmission gear oil:
Most people and shops install standard GL4/GL5 gear oil in these transmissions. While that's not bad it seems these Toyota/Aisin manual transmissions really seem to love Redline MT-90 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46
A word about oil and oil filters on the 22R/RE series engines
Because of the mounting angle these engines need an oil filter with a very good anti drain-back valve. If you run them with an anti drain-back valve that's not real good it causes some start up noise. I've been through a few different brand and design oil filters https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...sioner-288088/
The best I've found at preventing start up noise is the OEM Toyota 90915-YZZD1.
Most long time 22R/RE owners swear that synthetic oil isn't needed on these engines as it doesn't seem to benefit them much. Alot of these engines will go for 250k-300k on standard oil with Regular Oil And Filter Change Intervals of between 3,000-3,500 miles.
It's fairly common to have a somewhat noisy valvetrain on these engines and most seem to think that synthetics (even thick ones) only make it worse.
Alot of people with fresh engines run non synthetic 10W-30. Alot of people with close to 100K run 10W-40 and then there are those who really love to run these engines with 20W-50 because it quiets the valve train down. With over 100,000 miles on my engine I'm in the 20W-50 group.
Check the fault codes!
It's a good idea to check for codes even if the Check Engine Light isn't illuminated. Sometimes the computer will have active faults but they won't trigger the CEL.
First turn the key to the run position (don't start it) and make sure the Check Engine Light comes on. If it does you're a go to start checking the codes. It's super easy and here's how http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TroubleCodes/
Sometimes a code will be triggered by a bad ground so make sure all of the grounds are in place and they are good!
GROUND WIRES!!!
What some don't realize is that bad grounds can contribute to a failing cooling system in the form of electrolysis that I mention below so be sure they are all there and in good shape.
It's a good idea to check the grounds for other issues and prevention of mysterious problems or poor performance. Sometimes cleaning or replacing grounds can make an amazingly big difference in the overall drivability of the truck. Brighter headlights, stronger heater blower, easier starting, eliminate charging problems, smoother idle etc.
I can't begin to tell you how many people on this website overlook their ground wires!
Even if you tell them to check them out all they seem to want to do is take a quick glance at them without unbolting them to look at the actual connection. Ask them to do a voltage drop test to find a bad wire or connection problem and there's a very large chance that isn't going to happen. Electronics definitely isn't my strong suit either.
Your leaking valve cover
It's common to find that the valve cover is leaking from the rear. It's most likely not even the valve cover gasket causing problems, it's probably the rubber Semi-Circular/Half moon end plug at the back that sit's directly underneath the valve cover gasket. There's one at the front of the head and one at the back. Not many report a problem with the front one but the back one has a bad reputation especially when the valve cover has been removed to check the valves and then reinstalled. You'll want to fix that asap because even a small leak can create one heck of a mess on top of the transmission and under the truck if you let it go for long enough. Mine had been leaking for so long before I purchased it that I'm pretty sure it saturated the clutch disk. I was getting stinky clutch slip when I'd give it full throttle at low rpm in third. When I fixed the leak the clutch started slipping less and less.
It's generally recommended that you go with the Toyota OEM Valve Cover Gasket PN# 11213-35010
The Felpro Semi-Circular/Half moon plug is slightly thicker and probably stands a better chance of sealing up but some people still prefer to use OEM parts.
Look at this link for valve cover replacement procedure http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../7cylinder.pdf
Scroll down to page EG1–35 and have a look at Fig 7. and also Fig 8. on page EG1–36.
Right under that is the torque specifications for the valve cover.
If you don't have a torque wrench run the nuts down till seated and turn them another 3/4 of a turn.
Use Toyota FIPG or Permatex Ultra Grey sealant in the area's indicated.
I had a very small leak back there and found running my hand on the back of the engine wasn't a good way of looking to see EXactly where it was coming from. I purchased a curved dental inspection mirror and used it along with a flashlight to see the leak. It worked good enough that I could see where it was coming from but I found the viewing area of the mirror to be a little small and the fact that I couldn't bend it to get the angle I wanted was very frustrating.
I was loaned this tool and it works very well for this purpose Amazon.com: Ullman HTE-2 Glass High-Tech Telescoping Inspection Mirror, 1-1/4" Diameter, 6-1/2" to 35" Extended Handle Length, Clear: Industrial & Scientific
Since you'll have the valve cover off fixing a leak it's a great time to check the valve lash and have a look at the timing chain guides
The Factory Service Manual calls for a valve lash of .008 Intake & .012 exhaust (Inches) Warm.
After some people set them to factory specifications they find the valves make too much noise. What usually quiets them down is setting them to .007 Intake & .011 (Inches) Exhaust Warm.
Here's how to set the valves http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...djustment.html
What you're trying to do here is make sure the rocker is on the base circle/heel portion (no lift portion) of the cam so that the valve is in the fully closed position. It's very easy to see when you look at the cam with the valve cover off.
Timing chain guides YOU DO NOT WANT TO OVERLOOK THIS AREA!
22RE Temperature overshoot.. What is it?
Question: “Why does my engine temp go all the way up to the red before it comes back down to the middle of the gauge after I start it up in the morning. It only does this when the engine is cold and once it warms up it seems to operate normally. Could it be as simple as a stuck thermostat?”
“What happens on the 22R and 22RE engine, when the coolant goes through the heater core it gets cooled off enough that when it gets dumped back in on top of the t-stat it shuts it. Therefore the temperature in the engine continues to go up. The Toyota two stage thermostat has two valves in it, one opens at the regular temp, and one smaller that opens at a cooler temp. If the cool water shuts the big one, the smaller one stays open. All this happens because of the lack of a by-pass hose, which on other systems, keeps hot coolant running on the t-stat.”
You can get the two-stage thermostat mentioned above from your local Toyota Dealer but it isn't cheap. It is also a 190 degree thermostat.
Toyota Two Stage 190 degree thermostat P/N: 90916-03070
Also, sure you can get an aftermarket thermostat and perhaps never have a problem with it sticking open or closed but it seems that is an incredibly shrinking list. You sure as hell don't want a thermostat to stick closed on one of these engines!
If you want a cooler 180 thermostat there is always the OEM Toyota 180 degree thermostat made by Kuzeh. It might still cause the temperature overshoot but it will run at cooler temperatures.
Toyota one stage (normal) 180 degree thermostat
Toyota P/N: 90916-03083
Cooling system maintenance, YOU DON'T WANT TO OVERLOOK THIS AREA
Because of dissimilar metals (iron block and aluminum head) these engines are susceptible to electrolysis in the cooling system. What it basically means is that the coolant turns acidic and starts eating components.
I suggest you take a look at the coolant that's in the overflow bottle. If it's green you'll want to replace it with OEM Toyota Red P/N: 002721LLAC01 (it's not cheap) and DISTILLED WATER. That coolant is a special low silicate formula that helps prevent electrolysis from starting on Japanese engines with dissimilar metals. You'll still need to flush and replace on a regular schedule.
"When the coolant gets acidic it will act like an electrolyte, this sets the stage for electrolysis to occur and the destruction of thin aluminum components to begin."
"Electrolysis occurs when stray negatively charged ions (electrical current) routes itself through the engine coolant. The electricity is attempting to find the shortest path, and impurities in the coolant often generate a path of least resistance that the electricity travels across. The source of this stray electricity is often from electrical engine accessories which have not been properly grounded. A missing engine or transmission ground strap can also cause the coolant to become electrified. Sometimes the path of least resistance becomes a radiator, a heater hose, or even the heater core. These components are often well grounded, and offer a ground path from the engine to the chassis by means of the semi-conductive path of the coolant.
Electrolysis can destroy your engine quickly. Although it’s semi-normal to have very small amounts of voltage potential in your coolant system, values greater than about a tenth of a volt can start reactions between the coolant and the metal in your engine. In particular, electrolysis affects primarily aluminum engine components, resulting in pitting and scaring of the aluminum surface. This eating away of the metal can cause coolant system leaks, and in particular, radiator leaks around aluminum weld. Aluminum components are always most vulnerable. On Aluminum engine blocks and heads in particular, electrolysis can be easily seen attacking aluminum. Figure 1 shows a picture of the thermostat area of a cylinder head that has been partially damaged by electrolysis. Notice how the aluminum has been eaten away, and eroded by the chemical/electrical reactions."
From the ASE page
"Electrolysis is extremely corrosive and eats away the inside lining of aluminum parts, especially thinner parts like aluminum heater cores. It is said that a current of 0.5V or more will corrode a cast iron block. It takes much less current to damage an aluminum engine block and many of its components. It's more like 0.15V to 0.20V."
The Tune up
Use only standard spark plugs. No need for ultra expensive plugs with 12 ground electrodes or exotic materials.
Thinking about installing US plugs like AC Delco, Autolite, Champion..
DON'T, just don't do it.
The best thing you can do is go to the dealership and get the OEM Denso spark plugs.
Toyota P/N: 90919-01064
Believe it or not they are different than what Denso sells to the aftermarket. The aftermarket Denso plugs have a screw on terminal tip that can come loose and cause mysterious engine roughness.
Second in line would be off the shelf NGK V Power spark plugs
P/N: BPR5EY (Stock#1233)
Distributor cap and rotor
I can't single out one brand out but I know there are many on this website that from experience once again recommend you use only the dealer service center available Denso cap and rotor.
About spark plug wires,
Yes you can get a set that transfer slightly more current than the OEM wires but you won't be gaining anything noticeable over a GOOD (not toasted and used up) set of OEM plug wires. You simply won't be gaining much if anything here. Because of this I consider the OEM dealer service center replacement wires a better choice because of longevity and fitment.
OEM wires are the perfect length and they come with all the correct looms that bolt to your valve covers helping to keep the wires in place and routed neatly.
Most aftermarket wires are too long and look sloppy when mounted.
A couple other things the OEM wires have going for them over an aftermarket set is that they are also sealed wherever the boot meets the wire helping to keep out moisture. That's something none of the aftermarket wires have.
Also all of the aftermarket wires I've seen have fitment issues in my mind.
For the most reliable fitment and connection Angled spark wire boots get Angled connectors and Straight boots get Straight connectors!
The OEM wires have angled connectors and boots like it should be.
What does the aftermarket set have.. Angled boots and Straight connectors...
OEM wires and looms
If you're heart is set on aftermarket I'd get NGK's or Belden Premium from NAPA, most others are just hyped up junk or overpriced for this application.
Clutch Hydraulics
If you need to replace the clutch master or slave cylinder do not purchase these from your local parts store- AutoZone, O'Reilley etc. Don't let the lifetime warranty suck you in. There are MANY posts about out of the box failures and short life spans with the standard auto parts store replacement parts. Replace these parts with Aisin parts. You can use http://www.aisinaftermarket.com/English/Catalog.php to find what you need then check the internet for the best prices. Be sure to check Rockauto.com for prices (don't forget to add the shipping price to the total) and do a search on the part number. The price for Aisin parts isn't much more than the junk you'll get from your standard parts store.
If you're going to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders you should go ahead and replace the clutch hose at the same time.
With age the hose can weaken and balloon when you push the pedal resulting in a loss of pressure and a loss of movement.
Clutch bracket cracks
It's common for these trucks to develop cracks in the clutch bracket that will prevent full operation of the clutches hydraulic system making it difficult to shift. Crawl under there with a flashlight and depress the pedal. Look for any bracket movement, flex, or cracks. If any are detected you'll need to remove the bracket and have it welded.
Shifter
It's common for the rubber shifter seat bushing to get mashed and start falling apart resulting in sloppy, imprecise shifts.
A FANTASTIC remedy to this is the Delrin shifter seat and socket upgrade available from https://www.marlincrawler.com/hardwa...-forward-shift
I like it so much I recommend everyone get the set even if they don't have sloppy shifter problems.
Headlights
A common failure is that the high beams quit working, there's a common fix for that too. It's usually a dimmer switch/headlight combo switch problem https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...h-beam-156395/
Most people say these trucks have dimm headlights, there's a reason for that.
Because of the thin wires Toyota used and the way they are routed there simply isn't enough voltage making it too them so they're dimmer than average. It's highly recommended that you either purchase or make a headlight relay harness. If you have the 9004 headlight you might be better off making one.
I am hoping someone can shed some light on this, we bought what was advertised as a brand new motor with all new brand new parts, a complete motor. The block did not have an engine number on it, and already after putting in this "brand new motor" the head gasket has blown. The cylinder head is warped and there is corrosion. Odin mentions something about electrolysis and ground wires, etc. The ground wires are in working order. My question is the motor had only been driven 4000K miles and other mechanics that we have shown this to have said that this would not have happened on a brand new motor. Is there anyone out there that may be able to offer an explanation? We had our original motor operating since 1992 and had blown heads, but never did it warp. A mechanic friend of ours says the cylinders look like someone bore them, and they are not new, shiny and smooth like a new motor would be. We were assured that the motor was a crate motor.
Best advice right now is to contact who you bought the motor through. See if they make good at all. Did you get a warranty with the motor? Paperwork? Did you buy it from a shop? Private party, is so what was their relation to the motor?
More info helps us help you.
Edit: You should start your own thread for this. Piggybacking on another thread for this type of issue only makes it harder to figure out whats what.
Can an Mod help with this?
Last edited by thefishguy77; 04-26-2019 at 02:24 PM.
Thanks for replying. We reach out out to the company and we got the run around. The tech sent me a link to this site to watch a video on corrosion and electrolysis that a guy on here says can make a cylinder head corrode the way ours did. Our mechanic says no way, not on a new head would it corrode like it did so fast. We have a 3 yr warranty on parts, but they are saying a blown head gasket is not covered. The motor was purchased online and advertised as brand new. Not much in the way of paperwork. There aren’t numbers on the block either. We followed the new break in motor rules they supplied but now the truck is dead and we are trying to get resolution and answers.
Originally Posted by thefishguy77
Best advice right now is to contact who you bought the motor through. See if they make good at all. Did you get a warranty with the motor? Paperwork? Did you buy it from a shop? Private party, is so what was their relation to the motor?
More info helps us help you.
Edit: You should start your own thread for this. Piggybacking on another thread for this type of issue only makes it harder to figure out whats what.
Can an Mod help with this?
Last edited by wrenslow; 07-29-2019 at 10:18 AM.
Reason: Protect privacy
Thanks for replying. We reach out out to the company APR Auto and we got the run around. The tech sent me a link to this site to watch a video on corrosion and electrolysis that a guy on here says can make a cylinder head corrode the way ours did. Our mechanic says no way, not on a new head would it corrode like it did so fast. We have a 3 yr warranty on parts, but they are saying a blown head gasket is not covered. The motor was purchased online and advertised as brand new. Not much in the way of paperwork. There aren’t numbers on the block either. We followed the new break in motor rules they supplied but now the truck is dead and we are trying to get resolution and answers.
I would start with sending all further communications via certified mail. Email at a minimum, no more phone conversations at all. This will let them know you are serious and organized. Don't put any emotion in to the letters. Just facts and questions. If you are too close to it have someone proof it for you first so its just business, not angry. If this doesn't bring them to the table the next step would be contacting you AG.
Get you shop and another to give their opinion on the age of the motor, corrosion levels/time to get there, before contacting the AG. AG involvement usually brings a ˟˟˟˟˟ show and the shop knows it. So if they can avoid it they will.
Last edited by thefishguy77; 07-29-2019 at 01:47 PM.
We have been building and installing 22R and 22RE engines since 1982. We have experienced many scenarios in the years since opening, including seeing vehicles without grounding straps attached that have developed electrolysis issues. The multi-layer steel gaskets exacerbate the situation far more than the factory graphite material gasket. Keeping all assumptions aside, we only sell new 22R and 22RE cylinder heads. Even our re-manufactured engines only come with brand new cylinder heads installed. You can check out or website for more information. I would attach a link but don't want to violate forum rules.
Thanks
APR Auto
Last edited by EngineMonster; 07-29-2019 at 12:56 PM.
07-02-2015, 04:46 PM
