lx504life

I just bought a 1991 Toyota reg. cab with a 22re motor in it. It has some aftermarket upper control arms on it with keys I believe now with shackles in back. My question is what is the least amount of lift I can do if I go with a SAS. The truck is on 31/10.50s now and I dont want to go any bigger than 33s do to the fact I drive it 100 miles a day. The only real reason for the SAS is because I cant get an alignment worth a crap done on it. Its been to the shop 4 times and they say its the best it will get but there is still a pull to it and the tire on the inside drivers is getting ate up. Ball joints are good and no other apparent causes that I can see. Any help?

snobdds

How about your tie rod ends and idle arm, how are they looking? What about your relay rods? There is no reason why you can't align the truck...my align's just fine. There is something else going on here...

xxxtreme22r

maybe wheel bearings or brakes dragging?

kenbo53

I dont think you want a solid axle for what your trying to do, ited probly cost much less money to find out whats worn out on your current setup and fixing it. I think read somwhere that you can get by with 2 inches over stock with the sas if you use the stock push pull steering, but if you go to a cross-over setup like most you need at least 4in. like i said tho a sas is probly not the easiest solution to your problem but do some searching and youll find lots of info on it.

Tofer

3"... it allows you to run 33s and still look fine.

brian2sun

Doing a full-on SAS to correct an alignment issue is like getting an amputation and a prosthetic leg because you sprained your ankle. Don't get me wrong, a SAS would be cool, but if you drive 100 miles a day it's a bad idea for a DD (road manners aren't going to be very good in comparison), it's very expensive, a lot of work, and you'll be stuck with a lift you don't even want. That will most likely mean bigger tires (so it won't look dumb), which means less power, which means regearing your diffs... see where this is going? Many folks aren't happy with the geometry of their SAS the first time either and end up having doing it over again or make major adjustments/mods. You could have a bent frame causing your alignment issue also and if that's the case, it may cause major problems once you have already purchased the parts and started the SAS - then you'll really be up **** creek. If a good shop can't align it, they should at least be able to tell you why not.

tc

x2 - where are you taking it, and when they don't get it right, why do you take it back?

Everyone who uses their rig offroad at all needs to find a REAL alignment shop near them. Not a tire place that also does alignments. Not a oil change place with an alignment rack. Not a Sears, etc. These places don't have alignment technicians - they have what would alignment machine operators. If there is anything out of the ordinary with your rig, they can't deal with it.

lx504life

As far as I know the wheel bearings are good. No movement with the tire off the ground. Brakes are a possibility but that wouldn't explain the wearin on inside of tires. I took it to tire kingdom at a friends request. I never go there!!! They aligned it 4 times at no cost of course. They give you 6 month warranty so I Told them I will bring it in everyday until it's right and on the forth try they said they got it in spec. Still pulls

tc

Did they give you the print out of all the specs? If so, post up what they set it at ... there's "in spec" and there's "where it should be".

Does it pull during normal driving or only under braking?

lx504life

I have the specs at home that give their criteria and what they set it at. It pulls both when normal driving and braking. Pulls to the drivers side in both situations. I will try to scan the specs tonight.

tc

Cool - my bet is the before/after readings for the caster and cross-caster are identical. I have yet to see an alignment machine operator take the time to adjust caster on our trucks. The only way it gets "adjusted" is whatever comes if they adjust the camber.

One other thing - alignment isn't that hard. Search on here for a thread by bamachem and/or elripster about how to do it. If you get it close, those guys stand a much better chance of getting it right when it's on the machine.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Alignment on a SFA truck is nothing more than toe in 1/8" per SAS instructions.

If you are still having issues then you got something setup wrong elsewhere.

Never had to have a sfa Toyota aligned, do it yourself.

IFS, I use the dealer. Poor alignment is no reason to SAS unless you are just trying to justify it to yourself.

lx504life

Maybe the alignment problem is a justification for a SAS but if I can get the truck to stop pulling I probably wouldn't do the swap. Without having a machine how would I know it's in spec if a adjust it myself I will search the threads for the alignment one and go from there.

lx504life

Heres the spec sheet I got

craneguy001

ya never take a non stock or big tire vehicle to a crappy tire shop or oil change place find a 4x4 shop near you and ask them where they recomend. I took my mustang with a tubular k member and coilover shocks to a hibdon tire shop and they look at it with bug eyes and had no idea so Ihad to take it to a race shop for them to do it because of the complexity of the whole thing.

craneguy001

o and a sas swap is for jackin up a rig not keeping it stock ride height. but a little lift would be better than stock anyway

tc

Yep, they didnt even try to get caster in.

Does it pull the same way on every road, or is it worse on some than others? Toyota techs are instructed to dial in a little caster to counter the road crown since caster is not really a tire wear factor like camber or toe.

lx504life

It generally pulls the same on each road. One thing I noticed last night is the top of the spec sheet says 1995 Toyota Tacoma. Would they have the same specs as a 1991.

lx504life

Any ideas?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

See below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...GetAnAlignment