thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

I have seen that truck running around. Nice ride man. Well done.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

dang, i'd guess you could even fit 37s on that much lift i'd personally try the bracket lift without the BL first if you're set on a bracket lift. see how you like it and then see how much BL you need without excess.


in regards to your question about size of tires - not all manufacturers are equal and not all of them are actually the size they say, but will usually be within 0.5" up or down, usually down though. also, sidewall styling will make them visually look larger or smaller.


like i said before, i think 35s can fit on the amt of lift i have with some clearance work on the pinch weld/firewall area and the front bumper - those are the two spots my tires used to hit on ~2" of lift. it's all personal preference though - i believe in keeping it low and would rather clearance for a tire than lift and add unnecessary wind resistance, higher COG, less stability, etc. personally, i think a 34" tire would be best on my setup and gearing, but options are limited just like they are for a 33x10.5 tire.

here's my rig on 33x12.5s with 8" wheels:

1990Toy4x4

I really like the look of 37 inch tires on the 3rd gen trucks indeed, and I originally wanted to run that tire size, but I keep reading that anything over 35 inch tires would be too much stress for the IFS on our trucks and that I would need to buy heavy-duty axles and cv joints and even then I hear that problems could arise with any tires larger than 35s. I dont plan to wheel it really hard to be honest as this truck is intended to get me to work in the winter time in snow where my Mustang GT cannot go. I also would like to do some mudding and trail riding, but nothing that hard on the truck as my father was the original owner of this truck which he purchased brand new in 1990 and I just bought it from him. For that reason I dont want to go with a SAS and change too many things on it and so I just want to do the minimum to get larger tires on it for deep snow at the least. I will admit that I love the way 37s look on these trucks for sure but I dont want to change too many things as I really wont be getting too hard on the truck and just like the look of a truck with a nice lift and large tires.

1990Toy4x4

i forgot to say thanks for your pic that you posted here. I really appreciate it.

BMcEL

If you aren't worried about having to replace the idler/pitman arms and tie rod ends every 20-30k miles, go for it. I don't DD my '90 anymore so the wide tires are fine. Don't go all throttle happy and broken CVs won't really be an issue (if they're not cheap chinese CVs). If you plan on DDing it all year round, you might want to consider staying with a smaller tire...you can run for a really long time with stock components on anything 33x10.50 or smaller. Another big factor is keeping your control arms at a modest angle, I.E. no excessive cranking of the torsion bars.

BMcEL

Obviously keep your gear ratio in mind too. Don't try to run 37s on 4.10s.

Cyberman

35s on 4.10s is no better.

Based on what you will do with it, IMHO, stick with 33s. If you intend to do more wheeling, then look into bigger meats.

Personally, I would avoid the mudding, unless you've got a good pressure washer and clean it after every time. Mud just gets into everything, and causes problems.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

I agree with the above. 37s can be done but how durable parts are depends on how you drive it. Definitely consider regearing your truck at the same time. I have 4.88s - perfect for 33s. I couldn't imagine upping to 35+ without regear - poor clutch and engine would hate me. 35s can be done you still have to be careful on parts. Not only is it the breakage potential, but more importantly I think is the fatigue on steering parts especially if it's all original 20+ year old parts you're doing this on. Beefing it all up is really what needs to be done - but as always goes on Yotatech...if you're spending money on beefing up all your ifs parts, why not just spend the money on solid axle parts?

Mud is just a bad idea. Really though - old toyotas just don't have the power needed to get you through mud holes and clear out your tires. Plus like said, you gotta clean it also, Toyos have a rather tight tread pattern for an MT, which is why they are great on DD rigs - since it usually means more longevity and quieter ride --- that mud is going to double suck

1990Toy4x4

Thanks guys for the advice. I am thinking about going with a set of 5.29 ratio gears after the 35s go on. Come to think of it, I wonder if the stock gears (not sure if my year truck w/ auto trans has 4.10 or 4.88 in it ) would be enough to pull the 35s to decent acceleration until I do get the gears installed a few months later. Hoping it will be somewhat able to accelerate on the road decently.

91 4Runner

Being that your truck is a 90, it most likely has 4.10's. 4.88's didn't come into trucks/4Runners until 92.

You can check what ratio is in your truck, (provided they haven't been changed), by checking the B pillar sticker.

This chart will help.
http://www.toysport.com/technical%20...ifications.htm

93Xtra-Cab

With an automatic, the stock gear ratio is probably 4.56. Use this site: http://www.brian894x4.com/Gearratiosanddiffs.html

As 91_4Runner said, the 4.88s didn't come until 1992. For an automatic with 35s, I'd say 5.29 or 5.71.

91 4Runner

I am willing to bet they are 4.10's. Every 90 with an auto and 3Slow that I have had (3) and 2 4cyl manuals have been that way.

As for gearing with 35's you need to go steeper than the manual folks for a given driving style...
Street only = 5.29
Offroad only = 5.71
Mix of both is user choice depending on how for you drive to the trails and such, or if you plan on trailering etc.

Also make sure that you install a auxiliary transmission cooler. The autos don't like larger tires under the best of conditions.

BMcEL

Good site but don't rely on the door jam unless you know the history of the truck.

My '90 3vz/auto came with 4.56 and I liked how it handled 35s for a DD/WW. The transmission never came close to overheating even when beating the crap out of it in the mud and snow and it was still going strong when I pulled it at 250k to do a 5 speed swap.

Unless you're planning on crawling a lot, I would see what gears you have now. If you have 4.10s, it will run 35s until you have time to re-gear but you probably won't like it. If it has 4.56s, you might actually like it. Again, my 3vz/auto with 4.56s and 35s was almost perfect for a daily driver/weekend warrior. I never found myself thinking 'man I wish I had lower gears' and I could still cruise down the highway at 70 turning about 2500 rpms.

It all comes down to your driving style and personal preference but I would caution against spending the money on 5.29s right out the gate if you plan on using it for any highway trips.

1990Toy4x4

Thanks for that info BMcEL, it would certainly be a very pleasant surprise to discover my truck has 4.56 gears and that I may be satisfied with them gears running the 35" tires. I am hoping for that as that will save me quite a bit of money not having to re-gear it if I can live with it. Thanks again for the info.

BMcEL

No problem, good luck with it!